THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


By  Mae  Savell  Croy 

Putnam's  Household  Handbook 

Putnam's  Vegetable  Book 

Putnam's  Handbook  for  Mothers 

Putnam's  Garden  Handbook 


Putnam's  Vegetable 
Book 


By 
Mae  Savell  Croy 

Author  of 


"  Putnam's  Household  Handbook,"  "  Putnam's  Garden  Hand- 
book," "  Putnam's  Handbook  for  Mothers,"  etc. 


G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons 

New  York  and  London 

Gbe   Ifcnfc&erbocfcet  pre00 

1917 


COPYRIGHT,  1917 

BY 

MAE    SAVELL    CROY 
(Under  the  title  1000  Hints  on  Vegetable  Gardening) 


TEbe  ftnfcfeerbocfcer  press,  flew  Jt?orfe 


CONTENTS 

PAGB 

ARTICHOKES I 

ASPARAGUS  .......  2 

BALM 6 

BASIL 7 

BEANS 7 

BEETS 10 

BORAGE 13 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS 13 

CABBAGE .14 

CANTALOUPES 17 

CARROTS 19 

CATNIP 20 

CAULIFLOWER        .  .  .         .21 

CELERIAC 22 

CELERY 23 

CHARD 27 

CHERVIL 28 

CHICORY 29 

CHIVES         ...         .         .         .         -30 

COLLARDS     .                 .         .         .        .. '.    ...  31 

CORN  .         .       ;.         .        ..        «        .        v      32 

iii 


•3773 


IV 


Contents 


CORN  SALAD 

CRESS  . 

CUCUMBERS  . 

DANDELIONS 

EGGPLANT     . 

ENDIVE 

FENNEL 

GOURDS 

HORSERADISH 

HERBS 

KALE  . 

KOHL-RABI    . 

LAVENDER    . 

LEEKS. 

LETTUCE 

MARJORAM    . 

MINT  . 

MUSHROOMS 

MUSKMELON 

MUSTARD 

OKRA  . 

ONIONS        * 

PARSLEY 

PARSNIPS 

PEAS 


PAGE 
38 
38 

39 
42 
43 
45 
46 

47 
48 
48 

5° 
50 
5i 
52 
53 
56 
57 
58 
58 
61 
61 
62 
65 
67 
68 


Contents  v 

PAGE 

PEPPERS       .......       70 

POTATOES 70 

POTATOES  (SWEET) 75 

PUMPKINS 76 

RADISHES     .         .         .   '      .         .         .         -77 

RHUBARB 78 

ROSEMARY    .......      80 

RUTABAGA    .......       81 

SAGE 82 

SALSIFY 82 

SAVORY 84 

SEA-KALE 84 

SHALLOTS .86 

SPINACH 86 

SQUASH 88 

TARRAGON    .......       89 

THYME 89 

TOMATOES    .......      90 

TURNIPS 96 

VEGETABLE  MARROW     .....      97 

WATERMELONS 98 

SOIL  AND  FERTILIZATION        .         .         .         .100 
THE  HOTBED  AND  COLD-FRAME      .         .         .117 

SEED    . 127 

PLANTING     .......     139 


vi  Contents 

PAGE 

THINNING  AND  TRANSPLANTING      .        .  .  141 

CULTIVATION         .         .        ...       .      v.  .  149 

WATERING    .         .         ...         .  .  154 

WEEDS          .         .         .         .         .         .  .  158 

INSECTS  AND  SPRAYS     .         .        .        .  .162 

FRUIT .  184 

APPLES  .         .         .        ...  .  184 

APRICOTS        .         .                . .  •      .  .  189 

CHERRIES       .         .         .         .  .  190 

FIGS      .         .         .         .         .         .  .  193 

MULBERRY     .                  .         .         .  .  195 

PEACHES        .         .         .         .         .  196 

PEARS   ;         .         .         .         .  »•  200 

PLUMS  .         .         .         .         .         .  .  202 

QUINCES         .         .         .         .        *  .  204 

MISCELLANEOUS      .         .         .         .  .  205 

TABLE   DENOTING  DISTANCES   AT  WHICH 

FRUIT  TREES  SHOULD  BE  SET        .  ,  207 

SMALL  FRUITS        .        .         .        .       ..  .  209 

BLACKBERRIES  AND  RASPBERRIES     .  .  .  209 

BLUEBERRIES.         ,        •         •        •  •  215 

CURRANTS  AND  GOOSEBERRIES         ,  .  216 

DEWBERRIES  ....       •  «u  ;  218 

GRAPES          ....       ;.  *  -.  219 

LOGANBERRIES        .....  223 


Contents  vii 

MM 

STRAWBERRIES 224 

GENERAL 227 

NUTS 230 

CHESTNUTS 230 

WALNUTS 231 

TREES 233 

MISCELLANEOUS  HINTS          ....  235 

LIST  OF  AGRICULTURAL  EXPERIMENT  STATIONS  251 

PLAN  FOR  A  FAMILY  GARDEN         .         .        .  254 

TABLE   DENOTING   HOW  MUCH  SPACE  SHOULD 

BE  DEVOTED  TO  VARIOUS  VEGETABLES  .        .  254 

CONVENIENT  LISTS  FOR  GARDENERS       .        .  255 

LIST  OF  VEGETABLES  NOT  INJURED  BY  FROST  256 

LIST  OF  VEGETABLES  READILY  INJURED 

BY  FROST 256 

INDEX 259 


Putnam's  Vegetable  Book 


ARTICHOKES 

Artichokes  require  a  deep,  rich,  sandy  loam,  with 
plenty  of  well-rotted  manure.  The  seed  should  be 
planted  as  soon  as  the  soil  is  warm  in  the  spring, 
and  when  the  plants  have  grown  two  good  leaves 
they  should  be  transplanted  to  rows  set  two  or 
three  feet  apart. 

Artichokes  do  not  produce  until  the  second  season, 
hence  it  will  be  necessary  to  cover  them  during  the 
winter  with  straw  or  manure.  In  resetting,  use 
side  shoots  from  the  old  base. 

In  planting  Jerusalem  artichoke  tubers,  set  them 
in  drills  three  inches  deep  and  eighteen  inches 
apart.  In  very  rich  soil,  they  need  not  be  planted 


2  Asparagus 

so  deep.    The  tubers  may  be  left  in  the  ground 
throughout  the  winter  and  dug  as  used. 

ASPARAGUS 

Asparagus  will  grow  well  in  a  variety  of  soils, 
the  one  condition  being  to  avoid  too  much  moisture. 
Ajrich,  sandy  loam  is  the  best  soil,  as  it  will  grow 
warm  earlier  in  the  spring  than  a  heavy  soil. 

Up-to-date  asparagus  growers  always  grow  their 
own  plants.  The  seed  should  be  sown  as  early  as 
the  climate  and  weather  will  permit,  and  it  pays 
to  use  the  very  best  seed  regardless  of  cost. 

Asparagus  seed  are  very  slow  to  germinate,  often 
requiring  several  weeks.  Germination  may  be 
hastened  by  soaking  the  seed  in  warm  water  for 
two  or  three  days  before  planting.  The  water 
should  be  kept  warm  all  of  the  time,  by  setting  on 
the  back  of  the  stove  or  placing  it  over  a  very  small 
flame,  but  it  should  not  get  really  hot. 

In  purchasing  asparagus  plants,  secure  "crowns " 
at|  least  two  years  of  age.  This  will  enable  you 
to  have  asparagus  much  earlier  than  by  planting 
seed  and  waiting  two  or  three  years  for  a  crop. 


Asparagus  3 

Be  careful  of  the  "crowns."  If  you  cannot  be 
sure  you  are  getting  good  plants,  that  you  can  rely 
upon  the  dealer,  do  not  make  the  purchase.  It  is 
very  disappointing  to  give  to  a  vegetable  as  much 
care  as  asparagus  requires,  and  wait  so  long  for 
returns,  only  to  find  that  the  plants  were  poor  in 
the  beginning. 

Asparagus  may  be  forced  by  putting  three-  or  four- 
year-old  roots  in  soil  under  the  benches  in  the 
greenhouse  or  by  placing  them  in  hotbeds  where 
the  temperature  is  from  65  to  70  degrees  Fahren- 
heit. The  roots  should  undergo  freezing  for  about 
three  weeks  before  this  is  done,  so  that  ordinarily 
they  cannot  be  taken  in  before  the  latter  part  of 
December. 

In  growing  bleached  asparagus,  the  rows  should 
be  hilled  up  and  the  dirt  kept  above  the  tips  until 
the  tips  are  about  eight  or  ten  inches  long.  The 
plants  should  be  set  a  few  inches  deeper  than  when 
planting  for  the  green  variety. 

A  mulch  of  well-rotted  manure  should  be  spread 
over  the  asparagus  bed  in  the  fall,  covering  the  bed 
for  about  three  inches  in  depth.  This  will  prevent 
rapid  freezing  and  thawing  during  the  winter. 


4  Asparagus 

See  that  the  manure  is  free  from  weeds,  by  placing 
it  in  a  pan  in  the  oven  or  furnace  and  thoroughly 
baking  it.  Work  it  into  the  soil  in  the  spring. 

"Crowns"  should  be  planted  early  in  the  spring 
at  a  distance  of  about  three  feet  in  a  trench. 

Asparagus  should  not  be  cut  until  the  third  season 
and  then  only  very  lightly.  Properly  cared  for,  an 
asparagus  bed  will  yield  a  supply  for  fifteen  years, 
sometimes  even  longer. 

The  period  for  cutting  asparagus  should  not  be 
longer  than  six  weeks.  The  usual  practice  is  to 
stop  cutting^about  July  1st.  It  should  be  fertilized 
immediately  after  cutting  ceases.  The  most  suc- 
cessful growers  believe  in  heavy  fertilizing. 

Next  year's  yield  of  asparagus  will  depend  upon 
this  year's  fertilization  and  cultivation. 

When  seeds  are  to  be  saved  from  asparagus,  strong, 
vigorous  plants  should  be  selected  and  marked, 
and  the  seed  should  be  gathered  when  it  has  turned 
a  bright  red.  The  seed  should  be  carefully  pro- 
tected from  insects  during  the  winter. 


Asparagus  5 

Asparagus  tops  should  be  mowed  off  and  burned 
when  through  cutting  and  not  left  to  rot  on  the  bed 
and  harbor  insects  which  will  find  their  way  to  the 
roots. 

Asparagus  roots  for  spring  planting  should  be 
dug  in  the  fall  and  kept  on  a  shelf  in  the  cellar 
until  spring.  They  should  not  be  kept  in  a  warm 
place  or  they  may  sprout  too  early.  They  should 
be  planted  out  as  soon  as  the  spring  days  have 
arrived.  In  localities  where  the  climate  is  mild 
enough  they  can  be  left  in  the  open  in  a  well- 
drained  spot,  or  tied  up  in  bundles  of  from  fifty 
to  one  hundred  and  buried  in  moist  sand. 

Liquid  manure  is  excellent  for  asparagus  beds 
during  the  growing  season,  as  there  will  be  no 
danger  to  the  roots  from  applying  it  as  there  is  in 
digging  in  solid  fertilizer. 

In  selecting  asparagus  roots  for  planting,  discard 
all  those  which  have  very  fine  roots  and  many 
small  shoots.  Coarse  roots  and  shoots  denote 
strong  plants. 

One  hundred  and  fifty  square  feet  of  land  will 
be  large  enough  to  supply  the  average  family  with 


6  Balm 

asparagus,  and  this  amount  of  space  will  require  one 
hundred  roots  to  plant  it.  An  asparagus  bed  is  a 
permanent  investment  and  the  plot  should  be 
planned  with  a  view  to  keeping  it  in  one  location. 

When  asparagus  shoots  become  stringy,  stop  cut- 
ting the  crowns  and  let  the  shoots  go  to  seed.  All 
dead  tops  should  be  removed  in  the  fall  and  fertil- 
izer should  be  applied  between  the  rows. 

When  growing  asparagus  from  seed,  sow  the  seed 
either  in  the  spring  or  fall  and  tend  the  plants 
carefully.  Transplant  when  two  years  old. 


BALM 

Balm  seed  should  be  sown  thinly  in  rich  earth,  and 
the  soil  should  be  packed  down  firmly  after  the 
seed  are  in.  Seed  should  be  sown  in  the  spring  at 
the  spot  where  the  plants  are  to  grow  from  year  to 
year,  as  they  will  be  self-perpetuating  once  they 
have  gotten  a  good  start. 

A  liberal  amount  of  water  is  necessary  for  balm 
if  it  is  to  grow  luxuriantly,  though  it  will  thrive  in 
somewhat  dry  soil.  The  plant  grows  to  a  height 
of  about  twenty  inches. 


Basil  7 

BASIL 

Sweet  basil  seed  should  be  sown  broadcast  in  the 
garden  in  the  early  spring,  after  the  ground  has  been 
warmed  and  all  danger  of  frost  is  over.  If  early 
plants  are  desired,  it  may  be  sown  in  the  hotbed 
or  indoors  during  March  or  April  and  successfully 
transplanted  to  the  open  a  month  later. 

Basil  has  much  the  same  taste  as  cloves  and  is 
often  substituted  for  them.  If  potted  and  kept 
in  a  warm  sunny  spot,  it  will  yield  throughout  the 
winter. 

BEANS 

Beans  thrive  best  in  a  rather  warm,  sandy  loam, 
but  are  not  difficult  to  raise  on  almost  any  kind  of 
soil.  The  soil  should  not  be  too  rich  in  nitrogenous 
matter  or  there  will  be  an  overabundance  of  foliage 
and  stems  and  a  yield  of  poor  seed  pods.  Heavy 
clay  is  not  well  adapted  to  growing  beans,  as  it 
bakes  easily  and  prevents  the  seeds  from  germin- 
ating properly. 

Beans  will  not  survive  frost,  and  early  beans  are 
often  lost  for  this  reason.  Two  or  three  plantings, 
five  or  six  days  apart,  will  insure  an  early  supply,  for 


8  Beans 

if  the  first  and  second  crops  are  killed,  the  third 
will  come  through  usually  after  the  last  frost. 

The  bean  is  a  most  suitable  vegetable  for  rotating 
with  other  crops,  as  it  does  not  draw  heavily  upon 
the  soil. 

Frequent  shallow  stirring  of  the  soil  should  be 
given  in  growing  beans,  and  other  than  this  they 
will  require  little  care. 

for  a  constant  supply  of  beans,  sow  a  succession 
of  crops.  Planting  later  than  six  to  eight  weeks 
before  frost  will  not  be  likely  to  yield  satisfactory 
results. 

Bunch  beans  should  be  planted  in  rows  from  two 
to  three  feet  apart,  and  the  plants  should  stand  singly 
three  or  four  inches  apart. 

Beans  may  be  planted  among  corn,  as  they  do  not 
demand  much  fertilization  and  the  corn  will  not 
suffer  from  a  lack  of  it,  though  it  is  better  to  put 
in  brush  or  poles  for  climbing  beans  that  they 
may  get  plenty  of  sunlight. 

Beans  should  never  be  hoed  or  cultivated  while  the 
vines  are  wet.  To  do  so  will  cause  rust  to  gather 
on  the  beans  and  they  will  rapidly  deteriorate  in 
quality. 


Beans  9 

An  old-fashioned  rule  for  the  planting  of  beans 
is  to  "wait  until  the  oak  leaves  are  as  large  as 
squirrels'  ears. "  And  this  rule  can  be  used  almost 
anywhere,  as  oak  trees  grow  in  almost  all  sections 
of  the  country. 

Lima  beans  can  be  started  early  in  dirt  bands  or 
small  paper  cups  and  transplanted  as  soon  as 
danger  of  frost  is  over.  By  this  method  a  very 
early  crop  can  be  had. 

In  selecting  seed,  remember  that  the  old  "string 
bean1'  is  now  obsolete  in  its  relation  to  the  garden 
bean.  The  McCasland  bean  is  a  stringless  bean, 
but  many  seedsmen  do  not  carry  it.  Ask  for  it 
and  the  demand  will  probably  bring  forth  a  supply. 
It  grows  eight  and  nine  inches  in  length,  is  easily 
prepared,  and  has  a  delicious  flavor. 

When  selecting  beans  for  seed,  choose  the  pods 
that  have  the  shape  which  you  wish  the  next  crop 
to  have,  and  those  which  are  quite  full  of  beans. 
Allow  these  seed  beans  to  stay  on  the  vines  until 
they  have  become  tough  and  the  pods  are  almost 
like  leather.  Then  cut  the  vines  and  let  the  pods 
dry  on  them  before  picking. 

Dead  stumps  and  bushes  make  an  excellent  support 
for  beans,  peas,  and  other  climbing  vines.  Cucum- 


io  Beets 

bers,  too,  can  be  trained  on  these  natural  supports, 
and  the  heavier  fruit  will  find  a  welcome  resting 
place  on  the  top  of  the  stump  if  the  vines  are 
trained  in  such  position  that  the  fruit  can  rest 
without  straining  on  the  vine. 

An  old  umbrella  with  the  cover  torn  away  will 
serve  very  well  indeed  as  a  trellis  for  beans,  peas, 
etc.,  to  climb  on.  Some  distinction  like  this  will 
aid  in  marking  the  vines  which  are  to  produce  seed. 

When  procuring  stakes  for  bean  vines,  pea  vines, 
etc.,  if  possible  select  cedar  wood.  It  may  be  used 
for  years  and  years  if  stored  away  carefully  when 
not  in  use. 

If  the  tops  are  pinched  off  the  bean  vines,  there  will 
be  a  great  increase  in  the  branches,  resulting  in 
more  beans.  When  vines  are  so  treated,  they 
should  be  liberally  fertilized  and  cultivated,  for  the 
vines  have  more  nourishment  to  supply.  This 
method  also  results  in  stronger  vines. 

BEETS 

A  rich,  sandy  loam  is  the  best  soil  for  beets,  but 
they  are  not  difficult  to  grow  in  any  good  soil. 


Beets 


IT 


Only  well -rotted  manure,  or  compost,  should  be 
used  for  beets.  Fresh  manure  will  force  the 
growth  of  the  tops  at  the  expense  of  the  roots. 

Early  beets  can  be  raised  by  transplanting  plants 
raised  in  the  hotbed,  or  even  in  a  box  in  the  house. 
The  transplanting  must  be  most  carefully  done 
in  order  that  the  main  root  will  not  be  broken,  or 
branched  roots  will  result  and  the  beet  not  only 
will  be  knotty  in  shape  but  there  will  be  waste  in 
preparing  them  for  the  table. 

There  are  four  distinct  types  of  beets:  The  ordinary 
garden  beet;  the  leaf  beet,  or  Swiss  chard;  the 
sugar  beet;  and  the  mangel,  or  stock  beet.  The 
leaf  beet  and  garden  beet  are  the  ones  for  the 
home  gardener  to  grow. 

Beets  should  be  planted  in  drills  from  a  foot  to  a 
foot  and  a  half  apart,  and  when  they  have  grown 
several  leaves,  they  should  be  thinned  to  only  three 
or  four  to  a  foot.  Seed  should  be  sown  in  the  spring 
as  soon  as  all  danger  of  frost  is  over. 

Beets  usually  come  up  very  thickly  because  each 
seed  ball  contains  several  seed,  so  the  amateur 


12  Beets 

gardener  should  sow  very  sparsely.      Seed  should 
be  planted  to  a  depth  of  an  inch. 

For  a  succession  of  beets  during  the  summer, 
plantings  should  be  made  every  four  or  five  weeks 
during  the  spring.  Beets  to  be  stored  for  the 
winter  should  be  sown  late  in  the  summer.  For 
winter  use,  sugar  beets  will  give  satisfaction. 

The  thinnings  of  beets  make  good  vegetable  greens 
and  should  be  cooked  as  spinach  is  cooked.  No 
part  of  the  beet  should  be  wasted  since  the  tops  are 
so  utilized.  They  are  a  most  healthful  vegetable 
containing  properties  which  the  human  system 
needs. 

Beets  may  be  grown  between  the  wide  rows  of  such 
vegetables  as  tomatoes,  corn,  melons,  etc.  This  will 
not  harm  the  other  vegetables,  as  the  beet  does 
not  draw  heavily  enough  to  eat  up  too  much  food 
when  planted  in  wide  rows.  The  combination  of  a 
quick-growing  and  a  slow-growing  plant  is  seldom 
harmful  to  either. 

Beets,  carrots,  parsnips,  and  turnips  produce  seed 
only  from  the  second  year's  growth.  Hence  it  is 
wiser  to  buy  these  seed  than  to  attempt  to  save 
them  from  plants. 


Brussels  Sprouts  13 

BORAGE 

Borage  is  worthy  of  more  extensive  cultivation 
than  it  receives.  //  will  thrive  in  almost  any  soil, 
but  prefers  a  light,  sandy  loam.  The  seed  should 
be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand  during 
the  month  of  May  and  thinned  to  a  distance  of  a 
foot  apart. 

Only  the  very  young  and  tender  leaves  of  the 
borage  plant  should  be  used.  Old  leaves  are  strong 
and  unpleasant  to  the  taste. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS 

The  last  of  February  or  the  first  of  March  is 
the  time  for  sowing  Brussels  sprouts,  and  they 
should  not  be  transplanted  until  April,  and  only 
then  if  the  ground  has  been  warmed  from  the  sun, 
or  they  will  not  bear  transplanting  well.  For  a 
late  supply,  sow  the  seed  in  April. 

Brussels  sprouts  require  a  very  rich,  friable  soil, 
and  cultivation  should  extend  for  several  inches 
in  depth.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  drills  to  a 
depth  of  from  one  half  to  one  inch,  and  the 
young  plants  should  be  thinned  to  a  distance 
of  eight  or  ten  inches. 


14  Cabbage 

The  location  for  the  Brussels  sprouts  bed  should  be 
sunny  and  protected  from  cold  winds.  When  the 
young  plants  begin  to  push  their  way  through  the 
earth's  surface,  a  thin  covering  of  straw  or  litter 
should  be  spread  over  them. 

In  mild  climates,  Brussels  sprouts  may  remain  in 
the  ground  all  winter •,  but  in  the  cold  climate  of  the 
Northern  States  great  care  should  be  used  in  stor- 
ing them. 

CABBAGE 

Cabbage  requires  a  rich,  warm  soil  if  it  is  to  ma- 
ture early.  For  cabbages  to  be  cut  late  in  the  sea- 
son the  soil  should  be  heavier  and  more  retentive 
of  moisture  than  for  early  crops. 

The  cabbage  worm  which  infests  cabbage  and  cauli- 
flower can  be  eliminated  by  a  solution  of  one  ounce 
of  saltpeter  dissolved  in  three  gallons  of  water. 
One  spraying  will  nearly  always  be  enough,  at  least 
until  another  crop  of  worms  have  a  chance  to 
gather,  and  the  saltpeter  will  not  turn  the  cauli- 
flower heads  dark. 

For  early  spring  cabbage  in  the  South  sow  the 
seed  in  December  in  the  hotbed  and  transplant  to 


Cabbage  15 

the  garden  the  early  part  of  January.  In  the 
North  the  seed  may  be  planted  in  the  open  ground  in 
May  or  June,  but  to  insure  an  earlier  crop,  plant 
the  seed  in  the  hotbed  in  February  and  set  out  in 
the  garden  as  soon  as  all  danger  of  frost  is  over. 

Cabbage  rows  should  be  from  two  to  three  feet 
apart,  and  the  plants  should  be  set  from  one  to  two 
feet. 

As  soon  as  the  head  is  formed,  cabbage  should  be 
used.  It  will  keep  well  in  winter,  and  freezing  once 
will  do  it  no  harm,  but  it  must  be  carefully  stored 
in  a  cool  place  during  the  hot  weather,  or  it  will 
rapidly  decompose. 

Shallow  cultivations  given  very  frequently  are 
better  for  cabbage  than  a  deep  cultivation  once  in 
a  while.  In  fact,  it  cannot  be  cultivated  too  often, 
and  it  should  be  continued  as  long  as  the  leaves 
allow  passage  between  the  rows. 

Only  in  dry,  hot  weather  does  cabbage  need  to  be 
watered  when  being  transplanted,  but  the  earth 
should  be  pressed  down  firmly  about  the  roots  and 
the  soil  should  be  fine  and  moist.  Transplanting 
after  a  light  shower,  in  the  cool  of  the  late  after- 
noon, is  the  best  time. 


1 6  Cabbage 

When  cabbage  heads  show  signs  of  bur  stingy  pull 
on  each  head  a  little  to  break  a  few  of  the  young 
roots.  This  will  check  the  growth  and  usually 
stop  the  trouble. 

All  burst  heads  of  cabbage  may  be  utilized  by 
making  them  into  sauerkraut.  Cabbage  heads 
up  very  quickly  when  it  once  has  a  good  growing 
start  and  burst  heads  should  be  carefully  looked 
after. 

If  one  can  stand  the  heat,  the  middle  of  the  day 
is  the  best  time  to  cultivate  cabbage,  as  the  leaves  are 
less  brittle  then  than  at  any  other  time  ana  will  not 
break  off  so  readily. 

Burying  heads  of  cabbage  is  the  safest  way  of 
keeping  them,  for  in  this  way,  better  than  any  other, 
they  ivill  retain  their  crispness  and  brightness,  but 
when  only  a  few  are  to  be  stored,  they  may  be 
wrapped  in  newspapers  and  laid  on  the  shelf,  not 
the  floor,  in  the  cellar.  They  should  be  kept  in  a 
cool  place. 

Another  good  way  of  storing  a  small  supply  of 
cabbage  is  to  pile  a  layer  on  a  shelf,  heads  turned 
up,  then  place  on  them  a  layer  of  straw,  and 
another  layer  of  cabbage,  etc.  In  the  South,  they 


Cantaloupes  17 

may  be  "pitted.'"  This  means  digging  a  hole  in 
the  ground  large  enough  for  the  supply  to  be 
stored  and  stacking  alternate  layers  of  cabbage  and 
straw,  and  last  of  all  placing  a  layer  of  earth 
several  inches  thick  over  the  pit. 

To  keep  worms  off  cabbage,  the  following  method 
is  recommended :  Put  two  ounces  of  saltpeter  in  a 
ten-quart  bucket  of  water  and,  with  an  old  whisk- 
broom,  souse  each  plant.  The  white  butterfly, 
which  lays  eggs  on  cabbage,  lights  out  quickly  and 
does  not  infest  when  plants  are  so  treated.  Also, 
worms  die  quickly,  and  as  saltpeter  is  a  nitrate  it 
stimulates  the  growth  of  the  plant  so  that  a  more 
uniform  cabbage  will  be  the  result. 

Cabbage  is  ninety-eight  per  cent,  water. 

CANTALOUPES 

Cantaloupes  require  a  rich  soil  and  compost  is  the 
best  fertilizer  to  apply.  A  warm  sunny  location 
is  conducive  to  early  and  fine  fruits.  The  seed 
should  be  sown  in  May  after  the  soil  has  become 
well  warmed  from  the  sun's  rays. 

The  flavor  of  cantaloupes  of  the  same  seed  will  vary 
with  the  soil  conditions  and  only  by  experiment  can 


1 8  Cantaloupes 

one  determine  just  which  fruit  will  have  the  most 
delicious  flavor  under  certain  soil  conditions. 

Cantaloupes  had  best  be  planted  in  raised  hills, 
about  a  dozen  seed  to  the  hill,  not  too  close  together. 
The  seed  should  not  be  covered  more  than  three 
fourths  of  an  inch.  The  seed  should  be  soaked  for 
a  few  hours  in  tepid  water  before  planting,  in  order 
to  hasten  germination. 

Cantaloupes  picked  several  days  before  they  are  to 
be  eaten  should  be  picked  just  before  they  begin  to 
turn  yellow.  This  applies  only  to  the  early 
varieties.  Those  ripening  the  latter  part  of  the 
summer  should  not  be  picked  until  they  are  fully 
grown  and  the  skins  well  netted. 

Unlike  most  seeds,  the  cantaloupe  seed  is  better 
if  old.  The  older  the  seed,  the  better  the  melon, 
but  it  will  have  fewer  seed  in  it.  Many  gardeners 
prefer  seed  ten  years  old  in  order  to  grow  fruit 
with  an  abundance  of  meat. 

In  raising  cantaloupes  for  seed,  only  the  finest 
melons  should  be  selected  and  these  should  be 
allowed  to  become  thoroughly  ripe  before  the  seed 
are  picked.  Immediately  after  opening  the  melon 
the  seed  should  be  placed  in  a  warm  sunny  spot  to 


Carrots  19 

dry  out,  and  should  then  be  stored  away  in  a  glass 
jar  where  mice  cannot  get  at  them,  or  you  may 
find  when  the  time  comes  to  plant  that  most  of 
them  have  been  nibbled. 


CARROTS 

Carrots  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil,  but  thrive 
best  in  a  moderately  rich  soil.  They  are  not 
thinned  very  much,  being  allowed  to  grow  almost 
as  thickly  as  planted,  though  the  seed  are  sown 
more  thinly  than  other  seed  of  the  same  size. 
Seed  should  be  sown  one  half  inch  deep. 

Weeds  should  be  carefully  kept  down  around 
carrots,  for  carrots  require  all  the  strength  of  the 
soil,  since  they  are  grown  so  thick. 

Carrots  should  be  dug  earlier  than  the  more 
hardy  root  crops.  They  can  be  stored  in  a  cave, 
cellar,  or  any  cool,  well-ventilated  place.  If  they 
are  buried  in  the  sand  in  the  cellar  they  will  retain 
all  their  sweetness. 

When  carrots  are  withered  at  the  top  and  the  roots 
have  spots  of  the  appearance  of  iron  mould,  the 
chances  are  that  the  carrot  fly  has  been  at  them. 
Wood  ashes  will  be  very  effective  in  getting  rid  of 


20  Catnip 

this  pest  and  should  be  well  worked  into  the  sur- 
face soil.  A  quart  of  paraffin  mixed  with  a  half 
bushel  of  wood  ashes  and  applied  as  a  surface 
dressing  has  been  known  to  give  excellent  results. 
This  makes  the  surface  of  the  soil  hard  and  the 
flies  cannot  penetrate  it  to  lay  eggs. 


CATNIP 

Catnip  is  sometimes  used  as  a  seasoning,  but  the 
real  reason  why  one  should  have  a  bunch  of  catnip 
in  the  garden  is  for  our  friends,  the  cats.  It  is 
the  cat's  true  medicine  as  well  as  a  delightful  relish, 
and  when  there  is  any  around,  the  cats  will  find  it. 

Catnip  should  be  sown  in  a  trench  an  inch  deep 
and  the  young  plants  thinned  to  eight  inches  apart. 
//  is  self-perpetuating  and  need  not  be  renewed  more 
often  than  every  four  or  five  years. 

Catnip  has  a  very  pleasant  odor  for  the  adult; 
it  is  excellent  as  a  tea  for  certain  ailments;  and  as 
a  tonic  and  a  pleasure  to  the  cat  it  has  no  equal. 
If  it  once  has  a  start,  the  roots  will  sprout  every 
season. 


Cauliflower  21 

CAULIFLOWER 

Cauliflower  requires  a  rich,  moist  soil,  and  thrives 
best  under  irrigation.  It  will  not  withstand  as 
much  frost  as  cabbage. 

If  cauliflower  and  cabbage  plants  are  not  growing 
vigorously,  push  them  with  an  application  of  ni- 
trate of  soda  or  pulverized  poultry  manure  worked 
in  along  the  rows. 

Cauliflower  and  Brussels  sprouts  may  be  kept  for 
some  time  if  wrapped  in  paper,  without  bruising. 
Brown  paper  bags  are  best  and  when  handled  care- 
fully these  vegetables  may  be  kept  for  Thanks- 
giving, and  sometimes,  under  favorable  weather 
conditions,  even  until  Christmas. 

The  leaves  should  be  tied  together  over  the 
cauliflower  head  in  order  to  exclude  the  light  and 
keep  the  cauliflower  a  snowy  white. 

Cauliflower  should  be  carefully  watched,  for  little 
green  worms  which  appear  on  the  plant  and  eat  the 
blossom.  They  are  difficult  to  discern  because 
of  their  color,  but  one  worm  can  do  an  immense 
amount  of  damage  to  a  head  of  cauliflower. 

The  cauliflower  should  be  protected  from  the  rays 
of  the  hot  sun.  If  this  is  not  done  by  tying  the 


22  Celeriac 

leaves  over  the  head,  some  sort  of  covering  or 
other  protection  should  be  furnished.  The  hot 
sun  will  destroy  the  moisture  so  necessary  for  the 
rapid  growth  of  the  plant,  and  will  give  the  head 
an  ugly  brown  color. 

In  transplanting  cauliflower,  set  the  plants  out 
in  the  cool  of  the  late  afternoon  and  pour  water 
into  the  hole  before  the  roots  are  placed  therein. 

CELERIAC 

Celeriac  is  a  large-rooted  form  of  celery  used  for 
cooking  purposes.  It  is  very  hardy  and  will  grow 
well  in  almost  any  garden  soil.  It  has  much  the 
same  nature  as  celery,  but  it  does  not  require  bank- 
ing or  blanching.  If  the  roots  remain  covered, 
celeriac  may  remain  in  the  ground  until  it  is  ready 
to  be  used. 

Celeriac  seed  should  be  sown  in  March  in  fairly 
rich  soil  and  the  soil  kept  at  a  moderately  warm 
temperature.  The  seed  should  be  firmly  pressed 
into  the  ground  by  means  of  a  board. 

Celeriac  thrives  best  if  the  young  seedlings  are  trans- 
planted to  small  pots  to  attain  a  growth  of  two  or 
three  inches  before  being  set  in  a  permanent  loca- 


Celery  23 

tion.  The  ground  should  be  kept  well  cultivated 
after  they  have  been  set  out  for  the  last  time,  and 
the  soil  should  be  gradually  raked  away  from  the 
bulbs  until  the  latter  are  almost  on  the  surface  of 
the  earth. 

Plenty  of  moisture  is  required  for  celeriac  plants, 
and  the  plants  should  stand  at  least  a  foot  apart. 
The  ground  should  be  firm  and  should  be  well 
packed  down  before  the  plants  are  set  in  it. 

Before  frost,  celeriac  roots  should  be  taken  up  and 
stored  away  covered  with  earth  and  straw.  They 
may  be  left  in  the  soil,  if  desired,  but  the  roots 
should  be  well  covered  with  earth,  a  layer  of  straw, 
and  another  layer  of  earth.  They  must  be  taken 
up  in  February,  however,  when  this  is  done,  or 
they  will  begin  to  sprout  again  and  will  rapidly 

become  unfit  for  use. 

*. 

CELERY 

A  moisty  loamy  soil  is  necessary  to  grow  celery  in 
abundance,  and  plenty  of  humus  mixed  in  will  give 
most  satisfaction.  If  the  water  table  is  only  a  few 
feet  from  the  surface  of  the  earth  it  will  be  little 
trouble,  otherwise  plenty  of  watering  must  be 


24  Celery 

given.  A  good  fertilizer  for  celery  is  composed 
of  5%  nitrogen,  8%  muriate  of  potash,  and  6% 
phosphoric  acid. 

Stable  manure  is  excellent  for  celery,  but  it  should 
be  well  rotted  before  applying. 

Celery  seeds  are  small  and  slow  to  germinate. 
If  soaked  in  warm,  not  hot,  water  for  several  hours 
before  planting  it  will  hasten  germination.  When 
seeds  germinate  too  slowly  they  are  likely  to  rot  by 
the  time  germination  starts.  The  temperature  of 
the  seed  bed  should  be  kept  very  low. 

Celery  seed  should  be  covered  to  a  depth  of  about  an 
eighth  of  an  inch.  The  bed  should  not  be  permitted 
to  dry  out,  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  wash  up 
the  fine  seed. 

Celery  plants  are  generally  improved  by  trans- 
planting twice,  and  bright  days  and  cool  nights  are 
the  delight  of  the  celery  grower. 

From  the  middle  to  the  latter  part  of  August  is 
the  time  to  blanch  the  celery  which  has  had  a  fairly 
early  start. 

Celery  "bleachers  may  "be  purchased  for  a  couple  of 
cents  each  if  purchased  in  lots  of  one  hundred  or 


Celery  25 

more,  and  they  will  absolutely  insure  the  celery 
bleaching  to  a  clean,  clear  white. 

A  new  method  of  celery  blanching  is  to  permit  the 
plants  to  blanch  themselves  by  setting  them  very 
close  together.  There  must  be  a  great  abundance 
of  humus  in  the  soil,  and  of  plant  food  and  mois- 
ture, otherwise  the  plants  will  be  stunted  from  slow 
growth.  A  canvas  covering  also  will  be  very  satis- 
factory in  blanching,  but  it  must  be  taken  off  on 
warm  nights,  and  it  must  be  at  a  sufficient  height 
from  the  plant  to  permit  plenty  of  air. 

Blanching  celery  with  earth  makes  it  crisper  and 
gives  it  a  better  flavor  than  blanching  it  with 
boards.  The  earth  should  be  banked  around  the 
plants  after  first  tying  together  the  outer  branches 
in  a  way  to  protect  the  inside  ones.  Paper  and 
drain  tile  are  also  used  in  blanching  celery,  and 
unless  the  earth  is  fairly  dry  when  piled  around  the 
plants,  it  is  better  to  use  them,  as  earth  that  is  too 
wet  when  applied  to  the  foliage  may  cause  decay. 
Celery  needs  carefully  handling. 

//  the  soil  in  which  celery  grows  is  not  properly 
drained,  the  plants  are  likely  to  damp  off.  It 
should  be  kept  moist  but  not  water-soaked.  In 
watering,  do  not  wet  the  foliage. 


26  Celery 

In  transplanting  celery  in  hot  July  for  a  late  crop, 
the  tops  and  long  roots  should  be  clipped. 

Bordeaux  mixture  should  be  used  on  celery  when 
it  is  necessary  to  spray,  but  it  should  be  used  early 
and  before  the  celery  is  tied  up  for  blanching.  It 
can  then  be  washed  off  by  rain  or  from  the  water- 
ings given  and  the  tender  buds  will  not  be  affected. 

Celery  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  checked  in 
growth.  A  rapid  growth  will  make  it  crisp  and 
tender  and  tough  celery  is  worse  than  none.  Also 
checking  the  growth  will  cause  the  plants  to  run 
to  seed. 

Early  trenching  of  celery  is  not  conducive  to  long 
keeping,  but  where  a  large  amount  is  to  be  stored 
it  is  necessary  to  begin  trenching  early  in  Novem- 
ber. 

Celery  roots  feed  near  the  surface  and  cultivation 
must  necessarily  be  shallow,  or  the  tender  roots 
will  be  injured.  Cultivation,  however,  must  be 
frequent. 

Late  celery  crops  should  be  provided  by  trans- 
planting from  the  seed  bed  the  latter  part  of  June. 
This  will  furnish  a  supply  very  late  in  the  season. 


Chard  27 

To  preserve  celery  during  the  cold  months,  procure 
a  stone  jar  and  cover  the  bottom  with  a  couple  of 
inches  of  coarse  salt.  Stick  the  celery  stalks  in 
this  and  add  more  salt  until  the  jar  is  full.  The 
celery  stalks  should  be  just  far  enough  apart  that 
they  will  not  be  crowded  and  that  the  salt  may  sur- 
round each  one.  The  salt  may  be  used  for  ordi- 
nary purposes  when  the  celery  is  taken  out,  and 
the  celery  will  keep  fresh  and  crisp  for  many  weeks. 
The  jar  should  be  set  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

To  preserve  celery  out  of  doors  during  the  winter 
bank  the  roots  and  stalks  well  with  earth  and  cover 
the  tops  with  five  or  six  inches  of  straw  or  hay. 
Celery  will  stand  light  frosts  but  it  must  not  freeze. 


CHARD 

Swiss  chard  is  not  difficult  to  grow,  yet  it  is  not 
in  common  use.  The  soil  should  be  moderately 
rich,  and  it  should  be  watered  frequently  in  order 
to  promote  rapid  growth. 

Swiss  chard  should  be  started  under  glass  and  set 
in  the  open  ground  after  the  soil  has  become  some- 
what warmed  by  the  sun. 


28  Chervil 

Swiss  chard  should  not  be  allowed  to  grow  very 
large  before  using.  The  leaves  make  an  excellent 
green  cooked  as  spinach  is  and  the  center  stalk  is 
excellent  when  prepared  like  asparagus.  A  good 
salad  can  be  made  from  the  center  stalks,  as  weD. 


Cut  Swiss  chard  back  to  within  two  or  three  inches 
of  the  ground  at  each  cutting.  Only  in  this  way 
will  it  be  kept  from  growing  tough  and  hard.  The 
thinnings  of  Swiss  chard  make  good  greens. 


CHERVIL 

Chervil  seed  should  be  sown  in  the  early  autumn, 
but  they  will  not  germinate  until  the  following 
spring.  It  will  thrive  on  any  garden  soil.  It  is  a 
very  useful  vegetable,  as  the  roots  can  be  used  as 
carrots  are  used  and  the  leaves  will  garnish  as 
nicely  as  parsley. 

Chervil  requires  only  a  moderately  rich  soil,  but  if 
it  is  given  rich,  friable  loam  it  will  be  well  worth  the 
trouble.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  drills  in  their 
permanent  location  and  the  seedlings  thinned  to  a 
distance  of  six  or  seven  inches  apart. 


Chicory  29 

In  the  South  chervil  seed  may  be  sown  in  September 
in  the  open  ground.  In  colder  climates,  when  early 
plants  are  required,  the  seed  should  be  sown  in 
boxes  indoors,  or  in  dirt  bands  when  a  large  number 
of  plants  are  not  required.  The  less  root  disturb- 
ance, the  better. 


CHICORY 

A  deep,  rich  loam  is  required  for  chicory,  without 
much  clay  or  sand.  It  will  not  thrive  unless  the 
soil  is  right.  Where  it  can  be  raised  it  is  well  worth 
the  trouble  to  have  the  leaves  to  serve  as  a  vege- 
table. 

The  root  of  chicory  is  the  common  adulterant  of 
coffee.  In  some  localities  it  grows  wild  and  is 
regarded  as  a  weed.  However,  this  is  rare,  and 
more  often  it  is  carefully  nurtured.  When  deeply 
enriched  and  carefully  cultivated  it  will  form  solid 
heads  which  are  often  known  in  the  markets  as 
witloof. 

Chicory  seed  should  be  sown  the  latter  part  of 
April  or  during  the  month  of  May.  The  young 
plants  should  be  thinned  to  a  distance  of  six  to 
eight  inches  apart.  In  the  fall,  before  frost,  the 


30  Chives 

roots  should  be  taken  up  and  packed  in  boxes  and 
blanched  in  a  dark  room. 

CHIVES 

No  garden  should  be  without  its  bunches  of  chives. 
As  a  flavoring  for  soups  there  is  no  superior,  and 
when  it  is  once  started  it  is  very  easy  to  grow. 
As  an  edging  for  the  flower  bed  it  is  most  attrac- 
tive, not  only  the  leaves  being  a  pretty  addition 
but  the  flowers  which  come  in  the  late  spring  are 
also  very  pretty. 

Chives  are  best  propagated  by  dividing  the  small 
bulbs.  The  plant  rarely  goes  to  seed,  and  saving 
seed  is  quite  a  difficult  task.  Almost  any  soil  will 
grow  chives,  but  a  fairly  rich  soil  containing  plenty 
of  nitrogen  will  produce  wonderful  results  in  leaves. 
If  the  bulbs  are  left  in  the  ground  over  winter,  they 
will  sprout  in  the  spring,  but  they  had  better  be 
taken  up  in  the  fall  and  stored  in  a  dry  place  in 
the  cellar. 

CITRON 

Citron  is  cultivated  much  the  same  as  watermelon, 
and  a  few  of  the  fruit  will  go  a  long  way,  hence 
only  one  or  two  vines  will  be  all  that  is  needed 
by  the  average  family. 


Collards  31 

COLLARDS 

The  soil  for  collards  should  be  finely  prepared,  as, 
indeed,  it  should  be  for  any  diminutive  seed.  The 
seed  should  be  sown  in  trenches  about  an  inch  deep 
and  ten  inches  apart.  The  time  to  sow  the  seed 
is  from  June  to  August,  and  successive  sowings  will 
result  in  collards  very  late  into  the  season. 

//  the  leaves  of  collards  are  tied  up  when  they  are 
from  four  to  six  inches  long,  the  inside  leaves  will 
be  beautifully  blanched  and  they  will  have  a  far 
more  delicate  flavor  than  unblanched  leaves.  It 
has  a  much  sweeter  taste  than  the  cabbage. 

Collard  plants  are  benefited  by  being  transplanted, 
and  this  should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  first  two 
leaves  are  strong  and  healthy  looking.  The  new 
ground  to  which  they  are  being  transferred  should 
have  been  prepared  a  month  or  six  weeks  before 
transplanting  is  done. 

Collards  require  a  liberal  supply  of  water  at  all 
stages  oj  their  growth,  but  particularly  after  trans- 
planting should  the  ground  be  kept  wet.  This  wet 
condition  should  extend  over  at  least  four  days 
until  the  roots  have  taken  firm  hold  in  their  new 
surroundings. 


32  Corn 

Collards  should  be  cultivated  continuously  day  by 
day.  Unless  the  ground  is  kept  thoroughly  broken 
up  the  growth  will  be  very  slow  and  the  result  will 
be  tough,  strong  tasting  greens.  Particularly 
when  blanching,  should  there  be  plenty  of  mois- 
ture and  very  frequent  cultivation. 

CORN 

Sweet  corn  should  be  planted  in  rich  soil  and 
should  have  thorough  and  frequent  cultivation. 
Four  feet  apart  both  ways  is  about  the  proper  dis- 
tance in  order  that  the  roots  may  be  well  nourished. 

Sugar  corn  should  not  be  planted  near  field  corn 
if  any  of  it  is  to  be  saved  for  seed.  The  wind  and 
the  bees  will  carry  pollen  from  one  to  the  other,  and 
the  result  after  the  next  year's  planting  will  be  a 
great  disappointment. 

Corn  should  be  covered  to  about  two  inches  when 
planting  the  seed,  and  it  should  be  planted  in  the 
open  ground  as  soon  as  the  soil  is  warm  in  the 
spring. 

Corn  should  be  planted  six  grains  in  a  hill  and 
after  it  has  grown  to  three  or  four  inches  in  height 
thin  out  to  three  stalks.  All  weeds  and  suckers 


Corn  33 

should  be  carefully  removed  and  burned.  In  a 
warm  climate  succession  of  crops  may  be  sown 
every  two  weeks  until  the  middle  of  July. 

There  is  no  such  thing  as  too  much  corn.  If  you 
have  the  space,  do  not  be  stingy  with  your  planting. 
Almost  every  living  animal  eats  corn. 

Well-drained  land,  preferably  a  slope,  with  a 
sunny  exposure,  will  produce  a  crop  much  earlier 
than  soil  that  is  not  favorable  to  the  corn.  Corn 
planted  in  cold,  wet  ground  is  likely  to  rot  before 
sprouting. 

Corn  retains  its  sweetness  best  when  put  to  cook 
in  cold  water,  with  the  tender  husks  left  on,  and 
left  in  four  minutes  after  the  water  boils. 

Corn  smut  may  be  prevented  by  spraying  with  a 
solution  of  one  pint  of  formaldehyde  (or  formalin) 
to  forty  gallons  of  water. 

If  the  green  is  out  of  the  cornstalks  the  food 
value  is  partly  lost.  Seed  corn  should  be  selected 
at  cutting  time,  and  the  ears  for  seed  should 
be  placed  in  a  separate  basket  in  order  not  to  get 
them  mixed. 


34  Corn 

The  corn  should  be  cultivated  frequently  until  the 
tassel  is  out,  but  to  a  very  shallow  depth  along 
toward  the  last.  Two  inches  in  quite  deep  enough. 
In  cultivating  with  horses,  put  the  muzzle  on  and 
they  will  work  better  and  the  corn  will  be  far  safer. 

Green  corn  can  be  hurried  along  somewhat  by 
cutting  the  tops  of  the  stalks  off  just  above  the 
ears.  This  will  throw  all  the  strength  of  the  plant 
into  the  ears,  and  fine,  large,  full  ears  will  be  the 
result. 

The  job  of  cutting  corn  will  not  be  hard  if  the 
knife  is  sharp. 

In  shocking  corn,  stack  all  on  the  center  hill  of  a 
group  of  nine.  Not  nearly  so  many  trips  will  have 
to  be  made  in  doing  this  as  in  other  ways  of  stack- 
ing it  up.  Put  your  best  self  into  the  work.  If 
a  shock  is  not  well  set  up,  it  will  probably  blow 
down  during  the  first  strong  wind. 

If  the  roots  of  cornstalks  in  the  garden  are  up- 
rooted and  placed  in  a  pile  so  that  they  will  be 
washed  by  the  rains,  they  can  later  on  readily  be 
burned  with  the  addition  of  a  little  brushwood. 

Choose  all  seed  corn  carefully.  A  great  deal 
depends  upon  the  seed.  Be  sure  that  your  seed 


Corn  35 

dealer  is  reliable,  above  all  things.  There  are 
many  varieties  of  corn  and  a  number  of  very  good 
ones.  The  Golden  Bantam  probably  is  one  of  the 
sweetest  and  best  for  the  table,  though  the  ears 
are  small. 

Sweet  corn  intended  for  seed  should  be  gathered 
before  heavy  frosts.  As  soon  as  the  kernels  begin 
to  harden  the  ears  can  be  gathered,  slip-shucked, 
part  of  the  husk  turned  back,  and  the  ears  tied 
together  in  pairs,  and  hung  on  a  wire  in  a  cool, 
dry  place.  In  damp  weather  there  is  danger  of 
mold  if  the  ears  are  crowded  closely  together. 

Tarring  corn:  In  coating  seed  corn  with  coal-tar 
as  a  protection  against  crows  and  blackbirds,  put 
the  grain  into  a  pail  and  pour  on  enough  warm 
water  to  cover  it.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  tar  to  a 
peck  and  stir  well.  Throw  the  corn  out  on  a  sieve 
or  in  a  basket  to  drain,  and  then  stir  in  a  few  hand- 
fuls  of  land-plaster  (gypsum).  Never  pour  the 
tar  on  the  dry  seed. 

Seed  corn  should  be  thoroughly  tested  before 
planting.  A  shallow  box  filled  with  soil  and  di- 
vided into  little  squares  will  serve  to  test  it. 
On  each  square  place  three  grains  of  corn  from 
different  parts  of  the  same  ear.  Test  it  miscel- 


36  Corn 

laneously  throughout  the  lot  if  a  large  amount  is 
to  be  planted.  If  only  a  small  patch  is  to  be  grown 
it  is  well  to  test  every  ear.  Number  the  ears 
to  correspond  with  the  hills  planted.  Cover  the 
corn  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  over  this  spread  soil 
about  half  an  inch  thick  and  press  it  down  firmly 
to  exclude  the  air.  Place  another  cloth  on  this 
and  sprinkle  with  water.  Keep  it  in  a  warm 
place  where  it  will  receive  plenty  of  sunlight, 
and  in  a  week  or  so  the  seed  from  the  good  ears  will 
have  sprouted  sufficiently  to  satisfy  you  as  to  the 
best  ears. 

In  picking  corn,  carry  a  bag  slung  over  the 
shoulder,  and  both  hands  will  be  free  for  work. 
No  matter  then  how  the  rows  run,  the  work  will 
be  simple. 

Early  picked  seed  corn  should  be  dried  out  at  once. 
If  it  is  left  in  a  pile  for  even  a  few  hours  the  growth 
of  mold  is  apt  to  start,  and  when  it  once  starts  it 
spreads  rapidly  and  several  bushels  of  corn  may  be 
lost  in  a  very  short  while. 

Ears  of  seed  corn  should  be  kept  separate  if  possible. 
To  hang  it  up  after  having  tied  several  ears  to  a 
string,  one  not  touching  another,  is  the  best 


Corn  37 

method  of  drying  it,  as  in  laying  it  on  a  board  mold 
is  apt  to  form  on  the  kernels  which  touch  the  board. 


Corn  for  seed  purposes  should  not  be  planted 
nearer  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  corn  of  other 
varieties,  owing  to  the  readiness  with  which  it 
receives  cross-pollination  by  the  wind.  Crossed 
varieties  of  corn  do  not  produce  as  fine  seed. 

When  planting  corn  with  the  corn  planter,  first 
soak  the  seed  in  hot  water  for  a  few  minutes  and 
then  stir  into  the  water  a  teaspoonful  of  tar  to  each 
quart  of  corn.  Next  pour  it  into  a  colander  to 
drain  and  shake  over  the  corn  some  dry,  dusty 
sand. 

In  selecting  seed  corn:  The  ears  on  which  the 
silk  ripens  earliest  will  produce  early  results.  The 
kernels  should  be  shriveled  before  the  stalks  are 
cut,  when  they  should  be  dried  in  the  open  air. 

The  ears  of  corn  which  have  the  smallest  cobs 
should  be  selected  for  seed  corn,  as  the  crop  pro- 
duced from  the  seed  will  be  likely  to  resemble  the 
parent  seed. 


38  Cress 

CORN  SALAD 

The  seed  of  corn  salad  should  be  sown  in  the  fall 
and  covered  with  straw  during  the  winter.  To  sow 
the  seed  broadcast  will  give  very  satisfactory  re- 
sults. Prepared  as  spinach  is  prepared,  it  makes 
a  very  palatable  dish. 

A  top  dressing  of  nitrate  of  soda  applied  to  the 
surface  of  the  ground  around  corn  salad  plants  will 
be  very  beneficial  to  the  plants. 

Corn  salad  has  a  very  mild,  delicate  flavor,  there- 
fore, if  it  is  boiled  with  green  mustard  leaves  it  is  at 
its  best. 

CRESS 

Do  not  fail  to  have  a  bed  of  water  cress  if  there  is  a 
pool  convenient.  It  is  not  only  a  pretty  garnish, 
but  it  mixes  well  with  other  salads  and  gives  a 
delicate  and  delicious  flavor. 

Cress,  or  peppergrass,  should  be  sown  in  drills. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  thin  the  young  plants  unless 
they  are  very  badly  crowded.  If  the  seed  are 
sown  in  the  open  ground  after  all  danger  of  frost 
is  over,  the  plant  is  ready  for  cutting  in  three  or 
four  weeks. 


Cucumbers  39 

Cress  should  not  be  cut  too  close  to  the  ground  or 
only  one  cutting  will  be  satisfactorily  made.  It  is 
not  palatable  for  salad  after  the  flowers  start,  but 
it  may  be  utilized  by  boiling  and  serving  as  spinach 
and  other  greens  are  served. 

A  sowing  of  upland  cress  once  a  week  will  be  neces- 
sary if  one  would  have  a  continuous  supply  of  this 
very  satisfactory  little  vegetable.  A  sufficient 
supply  may  be  grown  in  a  small  brook  and  the 
plants  may  be  started  either  from  seed  or  from 
other  plants. 

CUCUMBERS 

The  soil  for  cucumbers  should  be  rich,  sandy,  and 
somewhat  moist,  but  not  wet.  The  seed  should  be 
planted  in  hills  about  three  feet  apart  each  way,  in 
order  to  give  the  vines  a  chance  to  spread.  Aside 
from  preparing  a  rich  soil,  an  extra  handful  of 
manure  well  worked  into  each  hill  will  insure  rapid 
growth. 

Cucumbers  for  a  small  garden  can  best  be 
tended  to  if  they  are  trained  on  a  trellis  or  wire 
fence.  The  roots  can  easily  be  cultivated  if  this 
is  done  and  without  danger  of  cutting  the  vines. 


40  Cucumbers 

They  are  easily  trained  to  climb  and  the  fruit  is 
kept  clean  and  fresh  by  this  method. 

When  saving  cucumber  seed,  select  the  first  cucum- 
bers that  are  of  about  the  same  size.  Pinch 
off  the  vine  at  the  second  or  third  joint  beyond  the 
cucumber  but  not  until  after  the  cucumber  has 
turned  yellow,  for  not  until  then  will  the  seed  be 
ripe.  The  seed  should  be  taken  from  the  fruit 
and  left  to  dry  in  the  sun,  then  washed  clean  and 
dried  again,  when  they  will  be  ready  for  storing' 
away. 

Cucumber  seed  should  be  placed  in  a  glass  jar 
where  the  mice  cannot  reach  them,  but  the  jar  should 
be  left  open,  or  dampness  may  cause  them  to  mold. 

To  secure  very  early  cucumbers,  start  in  the 
hotbed,  planting  the  seeds  in  dirt  bands  or  small 
paper  boxes  which  can  be  procured  for  the  purpose. 
Even  eggshells  will  answer.  The  young  vines  can 
be  transplanted  just  as  soon  as  the  soil  is  warmed 
by  the  sun. 

When  planting  in  the  open  ground,  sow  five  or 
six  seed  in  each  hill,  and  when  two  leaves  have 
grown  on  the  young  plants,  thin  to  two  vines  to  a 
hill. 


Cucumbers  41 

When  cucumbers  are  started  in  the  dirt  bands 
and  grow  too  large  while  it  is  yet  too  cold  to  transplant, 
check  the  growth  by  loosening  the  dirt  a  bit  in  the 
bands.  This  can  be  done  by  shaking  them  so  that 
the  roots  will  be  somewhat  loosened.  Do  not 
loosen  the  earth  too  much  or  the  roots  will  not 
survive. 

There  is  a  small  beetle  which  frequently  attacks 
the  cucumber  at  the  lower  part  of  the  stem  and  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves.  A  piece  of  mosquito 
netting  placed  over  the  plants,  held  down  at  the 
corners  by  dirt,  will  keep  these  pests  off,  and  yet 
the  vines  will  not  be  injured. 

Cucumbers  should  receive  shallow  cultivation,  to  a 
depth  of  about  two  inches,  until  the  vines  begin 
to  run  freely.  After  that  very  little  cultivation 
is  necessary  except  to  pull  out  the  weeds  as  they 
appear. 

Cucumbers  need  frequent  picking.  They  should 
not  be  permitted  to  mature  seed  until  all  that 
are  desired  have  been  picked.  When  once  per- 
mitted to  mature  seed  no  more  new  cukes  will  be 
produced 


42  Dandelions 

DANDELIONS 

Dandelions  are  excellent  greens.  They  require 
little  cultivation  and  are  extremely  beneficial  to 
the  human  system  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  acting 
as  a  tonic.  Cooked  with  bacon  and  corn  muffins 
they  have  no  superior  as  a  green  vegetable.  After 
they  have  grown  old,  they  have  not  so  much  value 
nor  is  the  flavor  good. 

Dandelions  should  be  sown  from  March  to  June 
in  drills  about  a  foot  and  a  half  apart,  covering  the 
seed  to  a  depth  of  half  an  inch.  Thinned  to  twelve 
inches  apart  and  given  good,  clean  cultivation 
throughout  the  summer  and  covered  with  straw 
or  manure  during  the  winter,  they  will  make 
quite  as  good  "greens"  the  following  spring  as  any 
other  vegetable. 

To  blanch  dandelions  set  two  boards  in  the  form 
of  the  letter  V  inverted  over  the  row.  Blanching 
makes  the  leaves  tender  and  partly  destroys  the 
bitter  taste.  Boiled  in  two  waters  none  of  the 
bitterness  will  remain. 

To  blanch  dandelion  roots,  take  them  up  in 
November  and  store  in  sand  until  they  are  wanted 
for  use.  Place  in  a  dark,  warm  place  for  several 


Eggplant  43 

days  and  watch  carefully.    Blanched  roots  are 

much  more  tender  and  delicate  than  roots  left 
in  the  natural  state. 


EGGPLANT 

The  eggplant  requires  a  warm,  loamy  soil  and  a 
long  warm  season  to  be  grown  to  the  best  advantage. 
It  is  not  extensively  cultivated  but  when  properly 
prepared  is  a  most  delicious  dish. 

Fresh  stable  manure  should  never  be  applied 
to  eggplant.  The  best  commercial  fertilizer  should 
contain  potash  9%,  nitrogen  4%,  and  phosphoric 
acid  5%. 

Eggplant  seed  must  not  receive  too  much  moisture 
when  germinating,  and  the  temperature  should  not 
fall  very  low.  They  do  not  require  a  great  deal  of 
moisture  at  any  time  after  transplanting  to  the 
garden. 

Eggplants  should  be  set  out  in  rows  from  two  and  a 
half  to  three  feet  apart,  and  each  plant  should  have 
at  least  eighteen  inches*  space  on  each  side.  This 
will  give  plenty  of  room  for  cultivation,  which 
they  should  be  given  frequently  while  growing. 


44  Eggplant 

A  check  in  the  growth  of  the  eggplant  may  result  in 
a  total  failure  in  fruit.  The  plants  should  be 
watched  closely  to  protect  them  from  insects  and 
should  not  have  other  plants  set  among  them  to 
rob  them  of  food.  They  need  quite  a  good  supply 
of  fertilizer. 


Eggplants  can  be  grown  to  advantage  in  pots,  and 
if  the  pot  is  a  large  one  and  only  one  plant  to  a 
pot  a  very  high  grade  of  fruit  can  be  produced. 

Eggplants  should  not  be  set  in  the  garden  until  all 
danger  of  frost  is  over.  It  is  usually  not  safe  to 
transplant  the  young  plants  from  hotbed  to  garden 
until  the  middle  of  May  except  in  the  far  South, 
where  everything  has  an  earlier  season. 

The  land  on  which  eggplant  is  grown  should  not 
contain  unfermented  vegetable  matter  of  any  sort, 
and  all  manure  should  be  thoroughly  composted 
before  it  is  applied  to  the  soil. 

Arsenate  of  lead  will  prove  very  effective  when 
getting  rid  of  the  potato  beetle  on  the  eggplant 
bushes. 


Endive  45 

ENDIVE 

For  early  summer  use,  plant  endive  seed  in  the 
spring,  and  for  fall  eating,  plant  in  July.  For 
winter  use,  endive  may  be  taken  from  the  garden 
and  planted  in  boxes  in  a  cold  cellar.  It  will  con- 
tinue to  produce  leaves  until  mid- winter,  and  these 
leaves  seldom  will  require  blanching. 

Endive  requires  a  rich,  moist  soil  and  should  be 
cultivated  frequently  and  thoroughly  in  order  that 
a  good  growth  of  leaves  may  be  the  result. 

The  seed  of  endive  should  be  sown  thinly  and  in 
drills  a  foot  apart,  and  when  the  plants  have  a  good 
growth  they  should  be  thinned  so  that  they 
will  not  be  closer  than  eight  inches.  For  winter 
use,  the  seed  should  be  sown  in  the  middle  of  the 
summer,  or  later,  and  should  be  transplanted  to 
the  cellar  or  cold  frame,  with  a  bit  of  earth  adhering 
to  the  roots. 

Blanching  endive  requires  care.  It  is  done  in  two 
or  three  weeks  usually.  The  leaves  should  not 
be  tied  up  when  wet  or  they  will  decay,  and  only 
the  tip  ends  need  be  tied  closely. 

Endive  should  be  blanched  only  as  required  for  use. 
To  leave  the  leaves  tied  up  after  they  are  blanched 


46  Fennel 

will  cause  the  heart  to  decay.  Served  with 
French  dressing  it  is  far  superior  to  lettuce  as  a 
salad. 


FENNEL 

There  are  several  varieties  of  fennel,  all  of  which 
are  used  for  seasoning.  Sweet  fennel  is  the  most 
desirable  perhaps  for  family  use,  as  it  can  be  served 
raw  as  a  salad.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  the  early 
summer  for  a  crop  the  following  spring.  To  have 
plenty  of  fennel  the  year  round,  sow  in  monthly 
succession  and  transfer  a  few  plants  to  pots  for 
winter  use. 

Florence  fennel  forms  large  bulbs  which  should 
be  covered  with  earth  when  they  are  about  the 
size  of  walnuts.  In  a  couple  of  weeks  they  will 
have  attained  a  good  growth  and  will  be  perfectly 
blanched  and  ready  to  use.  These  are  good  creamed 
as  celery  is  creamed,  or  even  eaten  raw  as  a 
salad. 

GARLIC 

When  the  garlic  heads  are  well  formed  the  bulbs 
should  be  gathered  with  long  stems  and  woven  into 
braids  and  hung  up  for  drying.  They  will  keep 


Gourds  47 

indefinitely,  and  a  few  strands  will  last  the  average 
family  a  long  while. 


Garlic  will  remain  in  the  ground  from  one  year  to 
the  other  if  undisturbed.  It  should  be  planted  in  the 
early  spring  and  cultivated  much  the  same  as  the 
onion  is  cultivated,  to  which  family  it  belongs. 

Old  compost  which  has  been  used  for  cucumbers 
will  serve  well  for  placing  over  garlic  bulbs.  The 
ground  should  be  firm  before  the  bulbs  are  set  out, 
that  the  roots  may  take  firm  hold. 

GOURDS 

Gourd  seed  should  be  sown  indoors  or  in  the  hotbed 
in  April  and  transplanted  to  the  garden  the  latter 
part  of  May  or  the  first  of  June,  depending  upon 
the  weather  conditions.  Too  much  sun  is  not 
desirable  but  they  should  not  be  set  in  a  shady 
spot. 

Compost  is  the  best  fertilizer  for  the  gourd  vines  and 
plenty  of  moisture  is  essential  for  quick  growth  and 
large  fruits.  Given  fertilization  and  water,  they 
will  require  little  or  no  other  attention. 


48  Horseradish 

Gourds  are  very  satisfactory  as  an  edible  fruit 
either  baked  or  boiled,  though  they  are  not  gener- 
ally known  as  being  at  all  appetizing.  They  are 
not  good,  however,  unless  eaten  while  very  young 
and  when  they  have  grown  and  matured  very 
quickly. 

HERBS 

Every  garden  should  have  an  herb  border.  Indeed, 
if  there  is  no  garden,  there  should  be  a  bed  of  herbs. 
Many  of  them  are  ornamental  as  well  as  useful, 
and  the  variety  is  large  enough  that  all  may  have  a 
choice.  The  following  herbs  are  dealt  with  in  this 
book  and  may  be  found  by  referring  to  the  index : 

Balm  Mint 

Basil  Parsley 

Borage  Rosemary 

Catnip  Sage 

Fennel  Savory 

Lavender  Tarragon 

Marjoram  Thyme 

HORSERADISH 

Horseradish  grows  best  in  a  deep  rich  soil,  where 
there  is  plenty  of  moisture.  It  requires  little  cul- 


Horseradish  49 

tivation  except  to  keep  down  the  weeds.  Grated 
and  mixed  with  a  little  salt  and  vinegar,  it  will  keep 
a  long  time. 

Horseradish  is  best  raised  by  planting  root  cuttings 
five  or  six  inches  in  length  with  the  tops  about  three 
inches  below  the  surface  of  the  soil.  The  roots 
for  planting  should  all  be  harvested  from  good, 
strong,  healthy  plants.  At  the  end  of  the  first 
season  all  laterals  should  be  trimmed  off,  taking 
care  not  to  leave  a  superfluous  number  remaining 
in  the  soil,  or  the  horseradish  will  multiply  until  it 
is  more  bothersome  than  a  weed. 

The  thick  end  of  the  horseradish  should  be  placed 
upward  in  the  ground.  This  will  prevent  water 
from  accumulating  on  the  end  of  the  plants  and 
causing  it  to  rot.  Horseradish  plants  should  be 
set  two  feet  apart  each  way. 

Roots  one  year  old  will  produce  the  finest  and 
most  succulent  horseradish. 

Soil  for  horseradish  should  be  well  fertilized. 
Nothing  is  quite  so  good  as  compost  or  even 
fresh  manure. 

4 


50  Kale 

KALE 

The  best  soil  for  kale  is  a  good,  sandy  loam,  well 
supplied  with  humus,  and  thoroughly  pulverized. 
The  plants  should  be  set  about  two  feet  apart 
each  way,  and  the  ground  well  cultivated. 

The  flavor  of  kale  is  greatly  improved  if  it  is 
left  standing  in  the  garden  until  after  frost  has  fallen 
on  it.  When  used  as  "greens"  it  makes  an  excel- 
lent substitute  for  cabbage. 

Kale  may  be  started  in  the  hotbed  or  cold  frame  in 
February  and  transferred  to  the  open  ground  when 
the  sun's  rays  have  allayed  all  danger  of  frost. 
The  best  size  for  transplanting  is  two  or  three 
inches  in  height.  Plants  for  a  late  crop  may  be 
sown  in  the  open  ground  in  May,  or  even  as  late 
as  June,  but  they  should  be  transplanted  also,  as 
soon  as  they  have  reached  a  favorable  size. 


KOHL-RABI 

Kohl-rabi  should  be  cultivated  as  cabbage  is  culti- 
vated, though  it  is  really  half  cabbage  and  half 
turnip.  The  edible  part  consists  of  the  swollen 


Lavender  51 

stem  of  the  plant,  and  it  makes  a  very  appetizing 
dish  when  properly  prepared,  though  it  has  not 
yet  grown  to  popular  favor. 

Kohl-rabi  thrives  best  if  planted  in  drills  twelve 
inches  apart  where  it  is  to  grow.  It  will  grow  when 
transplanted  but  does  not  do  its  best.  The  young 
plants  should  be  thinned  early  to  a  distance  of  a 
foot  apart. 

Kohl-rabi  should  be  eaten  while  it  is  young  and 
tender.  When  the  plants  have  grown  old,  the  roots 
are  tough  and  woody,  and  contain  little  nourish- 
ment. 


LAVENDER 

Lavender  will  grow  in  a  variety  of  soils,  but  the 
largest  and  best  leaves  are  produced  when  grown 
in  fairly  rich,  but  rather  dry,  earth.  The  seed 
should  be  sown  to  a  depth  of  an  inch  and  the 
plants  thinned  to  a  foot  apart.  All  root  divisions 
should  be  made  in  the  spring,  while  cuttings  should 
be  made  by  cutting  a  part  of  the  main  stem  with 
the  new  growth.  Cuttings  and  root  division  are 
the  most  satisfactory  ways  of  starting  lavender ',  as 


52  Leeks 

growing  it  from  seed  is  a  slow  process.  Even 
root  divisions  are  criticized  by  some  gardeners  as 
producing  weak,  spindly  plants. 

The  spikes  of  the  flowers  of  lavenders  should  be 
picked  before  they  fade.  The  stalks  should  be 
tied  together  and  turned  back  over  the  spikes  and 
tied  a  second  time  to  protect  them.  Properly 
dried  in  a  warm,  dry  room,  lavender  will  keep  a  long, 
long  time,  and  the  faint  odor  of  lavender  among 
bed  linen  is  a  most  delightful  treat  for  anyone,  but 
particularly  for  the  sick. 


-     LEEKS 

The  leek  is  very  hardy  and  under  favorable  soil 
conditions  very  easily  grown.  A  deep  rich  soil  is 
essential  to  the  cultivation  of  this  vegetable,  and 
seed  may  be  sown  from  the  end  of  February  to  the 
end  of  March. 

The  seed  of  leek  should  be  soaked  overnight  in 
cold  water  or  for  eight  or  ten  hours  in  lukewarm 
water  before  sowing.  They  should  be  sown  in 
trenches  to  a  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  and  the 
young  seedlings  should  be  thinned  to  a  distance 
of  fifteen  inches  apart  each  way. 


Lettuce  53 

As  the  plants  of  leek  grow,  earth  should  be 
thrown  into  the  trenches,  keeping  the  stems  well 
covered  to  blanch  them.  The  plants  should  be 
kept  liberally  watered,  or  the  growth  will  be  slow 
and  the  stems  tough.  They  can  be  stored  for 
future  use  in  the  same  way  that  celery  is  stored. 


LETTUCE 

Lettuce  attains  its  best  development  in  a  rich,  sandy 
loam  in  which  there  is  plenty  of  organic  matter. 
If  the  leaves  are  to  be  tender  and  crisp  the  growth 
should  be  forced  by  watering  frequently  and  not 
letting  the  hot  sun  fall  upon  it.  The  early  morn- 
ing sun  is  all  that  lettuce  requires. 

Leaf  lettuce  is  earlier  than  head  lettuce,  it  is 
much  easier  to  grow,  and  has  a  more  distinctive 
taste. 

Lettuce  may  be  sown  in  February  in  the  hotbed 
or  in  the  greenhouse  and  transplanted  as  soon  as 
the  ground  is  warm,  or  it  may  be  sown  where  it  is 
to  remain,  seeds  thrown  broadcast,  and  thinned 
when  two  leaves  have  grown.  Transplanting, 
however,  improves  it. 

The  "head"  variety  of  lettuce  will  not  do  well  on 


54  Lettuce 

heavy  soil.  It  thrives  best  on  a  somewhat  sandy 
and  well-drained  ground,  though  it,  too,  must 
be  kept  moist.  Heading  lettuce  is  an  art,  and  a 
little  experience  will  do  more  than  any  amount  of 
advice. 

Break  off  the  lettuce  leaves  as  soon  as  they  are 
large  enough  for  use,  leaving  the  stem  on  which  to 
grow  more  leaves.  In  this  way,  lettuce  will  last 
many  weeks,  while  cutting  a  head  means  no  more 
lettuce  from  that  root. 

In  thinning  lettuce,  do  not  throw  away  the 
superfluous  plants.  Served  with  a  nice  dressing, 
they  will  be  almost  as  good  as  the  larger  leaves. 
The  "thinnings"  also  make  delicious  "greens'1  if 
boiled  with  a  little  salt  pork.  They  cook  down  to 
a  very  small  amount,  hence  a  considerable  quan- 
tity should  be  used. 

Fill  some  window  boxes  with  rich  earth,  and  sow 
lettuce  seed  in  them,  together  with  radish,  mustard, 
small  variety  of  beets,  and  small  onion  sets.  These 
young  plants  will  furnish  fresh  salad  material 
throughout  the  winter  months,  and  your  guests 
will  be  as  much  surprised  at  the  treat  as  they  are 
pleased. 


Lettuce  55 

A  succession  of  lettuce  should  be  planted  every 
season.  Nothing  gives  more  pleasure  to  the  cook 
than  to  have  a  supply  of  lettuce  on  hand.  A 
planting  once  every  two  weeks  will  furnish  lettuce 
young  and  tender  throughout  the  summer  months. 

Frame  lettuce  should  be  kept  well  ventilated. 
Lettuce  requires  plenty  of  air.  The  leaves  are 
mostly  water  and  will  parch  if  not  properly  venti- 
lated and  water  supplied  to  the  young  plants. 
Lettuce  that  is  not  started  right  seldom  picks 
up  as  the  weeks  go  on. 

In  the  Southern  States,  lettuce  seed  may  be  sown 
during  the  autumn  and  the  plants  allowed  to  remain 
in  the  ground  over  winter.  This  will  give  a  very 
early  spring  crop  at  a  time  when  vegetables  will  be 
most  appreciated. 

Lettuce  which  grows  rapidly  without  being  checked 
possesses  the  best  texture  and  flavor.  While  it 
should  be  kept  moist,  precaution  should  be  taken 
not  to  allow  the  leaves  to  get  wet.  If  the  surface 
of  the  soil  and  the  foliage  are  constantly  wet,  the 
plants  will  be  very  susceptible  to  disease.  Watering 
in  furrows  is  the  best  way  to  water. 

In  selecting  lettuce  heads  with  a  view  to  saving 
seeds,  choose  those  that  do  not  show  a  tendency  to 


56  Marjoram 

go  to  seed.  These  plants  will  attain  a  good  growth, 
and  the  seed  resulting  will  produce  large,  strong 
plants. 

When  lettuce  heads  have  assumed  a  conical 
shape,  they  should  be  slit  across  the  head  with  a 
sharp  knife  to  induce  growth  of  the  seed  stalk.  It  is 
sometimes  well  to  remove  some  of  the  lower  leaves 
when  this  is  done  to  prevent  the  plant  rotting  from 
the  ground  upward. 

When  fuzz  gathers  on  the  lettuce  heads,  the  seeds 
are  ripe  enough  and  should  be  cleaned  and  dried 
in  the  sun. 

Lettuce,  onions,  peas,  and  beets  should  be  planted 
very  early.  An  early  start  will  always  be  bene- 
ficial to  them  and  they  can  stand  a  good  deal  in 
the  way  of  change  of  temperature. 

MARJORAM 

Sweet  Marjoram  will  grow  in  ordinary  garden 
soil,  and  the  seed  should  be  sown  in  the  spring  in 
the  place  where  the  plants  are  to  stand.  They  may 
be  sown  in  the  hotbed  very  early  in  the  season,  in 
February  or  March,  and  later  be  transplanted, 
but  they  do  not  bear  transplanting  as  well  as 
many  other  herbs. 


Mint  57 

Marjoram  is  easily  propagated  by  root  cuttings 
which  should  be  taken  in  the  spring.  In  cold  cli- 
mates, it  should  always  be  given  a  sunny  exposure 
throughout  the  day,  and  should  have  some  pro- 
tection on  the  north  and  east. 


MINT 

Spearmint  may  be  grown  from  seed,  but  it  is 
more  satisfactory  to  propagate  it  by  root  cuttings. 
The  soil  should  be  somewhat  moist  all  the  time. 
The  quality  of  the  soil  is  not  important,  for  it  will 
grow  almost  anywhere,  but  a  rich,  friable  soil  will 
produce  the  finest  plants. 

A  bed  of  spearmint  or  peppermint,  once  started 
is  self-perpetuating.  A  pot  should  be  started  for 
the  house  during  the  winter  months,  for  use  in 
making  a  sauce  to  serve  with  roast  lamb,  as  season- 
ing, and  various  other  things. 

Mint  may  be  preserved  for  winter  use  by  picking 
the  stems  with  the  leaves  and  placing  in  a  jar  and 
vinegar  poured  over  them.  If  preferred  dried, 
hang  to  dry  in  a  warm,  dry  room  for  a  few  days 
and  then  place  in  a  glass  jar  and  seal. 


58  Mushrooms 

When  mint  for  winter  use  is  placed  in  pots,  it 
should  be  planted,  pot  and  mint,  in  the  soil  in  the 
early  spring.  If  this  is  done  each  year,  the  same 
plant  can  be  used  for  a  long  time  without  renewing 
the  roots. 

MUSHROOMS 

Before  attempting  to  groiv  mushrooms,  study  the 
varieties  thoroughly.  There  are  so  many~varieties 
that  are  poisonous  that  it  is  not  safe  to  take  a 
chance.  There  are  many  inhabiting  species  which 
will  spring  up  shortly  after  planting  and  which 
easily  deceive  the  amateur  grower,  but  they  are 
not  wholesome  and  many  of  them  are  deadly 
poison. 

A  cellar  under  an  out-building  is  an  excellent 
place  for  the  mushroom  bed.  A  bed  about  five  by 
fifteen  feet  will  furnish  enough  mushrooms  for  a 
family  of  six  for  several  weeks.  A  second  crop  can 
be  grown  by  merely  sprinkling  the  bed  after  the 
first  crop  has  been  cut,  putting  on  a  thin  layer  of 
manure,  well-rotted,  and  pressing  it  down  firmly. 

MUSKMELON 

The  muskmelon  requires  a  long,  warm  season  and 
a  sandy  loam  for  its  best  development.  The  soil 


Muskmelon  59 

should  be  in  the  best  of  tilth  and  should  be  well 
fertilized,  but  not  too  heavily,  with  stable  manure. 

Muskmelon  and  cantaloupe  may  be  planted  either 
in  hills  or  in  trenches  about  six  feet  apart.  The 
hills  or  trenches  should  be  opened  and  filled  with 
manure,  well-rotted,  and  the  soil  replaced.  The 
ground  should  then  be  leveled,  leaving  a  low  flat 
bed.  Before  planting  fertilizer  should  be  sprinkled 
liberally  between  the  rows  and  worked  into  the 
soil.  The  seed  should  be  planted  thickly,  and,  when 
two  leaves  have  grown,  should  be  thinned  to  one,  or 
at  the  most,  two  plants. 

Muskmelons  may  be  planted  in  dirt  bands,  or 
paper  cups  early,  and  transplanted  after  danger  of 
frost  is  over  by  burying  the  bands,  or  cups,  with  the 
young  plants.  Do  not  loosen  the  earth  when 
transplanting.  The  same  soil  should  be  used  in 
the  bands  as  is  recommended  for  growing  the 
vines  out  of  doors. 

//  muskmelon  and  cantaloupe  seed  do  not  seem  to 
germinate  in  good  time,  keep  the  soil  well  watered 
by  running  it  in  furrows  parallel  to  the  rows  and 
four  or  five  inches  from  them.  By  this  method 
the  water  will  soak  through  to  the  seed,  but  the 


60  Muskmelon 

surface  of  the  earth  will  remain  dry.  If  the  sur- 
face soil  becomes  wet  it  is  likely  to  crust,  when  it 
should  be  raked  in  order  to  allow  the  young  plants 
to  push  their  way  through  to  the  light  and  air. 

When  saving  muskmelons  for  seed,  select  the  mel- 
ons which  have  thickly  netted  skins.  The  vines 
should  be  pinched  off  at  the  second  joint  and  the 
melon  left  to  ripen  in  the  sun  before  all  the  vine  is 
removed.  The  seed  should  first  be  dried  in  the  sun, 
then  washed  thoroughly  and  left  to  dry  again  be- 
fore storing  away.  Mice  are  very  eager  for  melon 
seeds  of  all  kinds,  hence  they  should  be  carefully 
stored  away  or  you  may  find  in  the  spring  that 
the  pulp  has  been  eaten  from  all  the  fattest  and 
best  seeds. 

. 

Melons,  cucumbers,  squash,  and  Lima  beans,  are 
easily  injured  by  frost  and  should  always  be  cov- 
ered with  hay  or  straw  when  first  set  out,  and  this 
covering  left  on  until  all  danger  of  frost  is  past. 

Melons  should  be  picked  as  soon  as  ripe,  and 
never  allowed  to  stay  on  the  vines  after  they  are 
ready  to  eat.  They  ripen  just  as  well  if  picked 
green  and  taken  into  the  house  and  kept  until 
just  a  few  days  before  time  to  eat,  when  they  should 


Mustard  61 

be  put  in  the  sun.      To  keep  them  cold  and  serve 
cold  will  tend  to  bring  out  their  flavor. 

MUSTARD 

Mustard  seed  should  be  sown  in  drills  and  the 
young  seedlings  thinned  to  about  a  foot  apart. 
Mustard  grows  to  be  very  tall  when  going  to  seed, 
and  when  seeding  has  started  the  leaves  have  a 
strong,  rank  taste,  and  are  not  appetizing. 

Green  mustard  leaves  are  used  for  making  poultices 
and  applied  as  the  regular  mustard  plaster  is 
applied.  It  is  not  so  strong  as  the  plaster  made 
from  ground  seed,  however,  and  must  stay  on  the 
patient  a  longer  time  to  take  effect. 

Almost  any  soil  will  produce  mustard,  and  it 
requires  little  cultivation.  The  greens  are  cooked 
like  spinach  and  when  seasoned  with  salt  pork 
are  quite  tasty.  The  white  mustard  with  curly, 
fringed  leaves  is  the  kind  usually  used.  It  takes 
but  a  very  short  while  to  reach  the  state  where  it 
can  be  used. 

OKRA 

Okra  is  a  dish  little  eaten  in  the  North,  though 
the  South  knows  it  quite  well.  It  does  best  on 


62  Onions 

rather  rich  soil  and  requires  frequent  cultivation. 
Where  the  soil  is  suited  to  it,  it  grows  to  a  height 
of  six  feet  and  produces  an  abundance  of  pods. 

Okra  seed  should  be  soaked  overnight  in  luke- 
warm water  (set  the  vessel  on  the  back  of  the  coal 
range)  before  planting  in  trenches.  The  young 
plants  should  stand  at  least  a  foot  and  a  half  apart 
each  way  after  they  have  attained  a  healthy 
growth.  Seed  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  all 
danger  of  frost  is  over. 

The  time  to  gather  okra  pods  for  frying,  boiling, 
etc.,  is  about  ten  days  after  the  flowers  have  fallen. 
Old  pods  are  woody  and  tough  and  decidedly 
unpalatable. 

ONIONS 

A  rich,  sandy  loam  with  plenty  of  humus  is  best 
suited  to  the  production  of  onions.  They  require 
shallow  but  frequent  cultivation.  Some  onions 
may  remain  in  the  soil  all  winter  without  harm. 

JTo  hasten  the  maturity  of  the  bulbs,  the  tops  of 
the  onions  should  be  broken  off.  When  the  stubs 
of  the  tops  are  dead  the  bulbs  should  be  removed 
from  the  soil  to  a  dry,  well- ventilated  place  to  cure 
before  storing  away  for  the  winter. 


Onions  63 

Ashes  will  prove  very  beneficial  to  onions  if  worked 
into  the  soil  before  starting  the  bed. 

In  the  colder  sections  hardy  onions  will  need 
mulching  with  old  hay,  straw,  or  manure  after  the 
ground  is  frozen.  It  will  protect  them  from  alter- 
nate freezing  and  thawing  during  the  winter,  and 
the  plants  will  be  in  much  better  condition  in  the 
spring. 

The  sooner  the  onions  for  the  early  spring  bunch- 
ing are  planted  the  better.  The  Egyptian  is  hardy 
throughout  the  North.  In  quality  it  is  inferior 
to  most  other  varieties,  but  it  comes  on  early  in 
the  spring,  and  the  bunched  onions  sell  very  readily 
in  most  markets. 

Winter  onions  are  a  profitable  crop  in  some  locali- 
ties. They  can  be  planted  any  time  from  the  last 
of  July  to  the  first  of  October.  In^  the  central 
section  the  last  of  August  is  a  good  time  for  plant- 
ing; if  on  rich,  well-prepared  land  and  cultivated 
a  time  or  two,  they  will  make  a  fine  growth  by 
the  time  the  ground  freezes  up.  Severe  freezing 
kills  the  tops  but  does  not  hurt  the  bulbs.  The 
first  breath  of  spring  starts  them  growing,  and 
they  can  be  marketed  in  time  to  use  the  land  for 
some  other  crop. 


64  Onions 

Onions  should  never  be  planted  in  the  same  place 
two  years  in  succession,  or  the  onion-maggot  will 
cause  trouble.  Even  if  this  pest  does  not  trouble 
them,  they  will  thrive  better  in  a  new  spot. 

Harvesting  onions  should  begin  as  soon  as  most  of 
the  tops  wither  and  fall  over.  Several  rows  should  be 
thrown  together  and  the  onions  should  be  left 
in  the  field  for  a  few  days  in  order  that  they  may 
dry  out  before  they  are  topped  and  stored. 

There  are  several  things  about  winter  onions  that 
recommend  them  to  the  grower:  They  are  planted 
after  most  of  the  other  crops  are  gone;  they  require 
very  little  cultivation;  if  the  soil  is  in  good  condi- 
tion, there  will  be  little  doubt  about  a  successful 
crop;  they  have  no  diseases  nor  insect  enemies; 
they  are  harvested  before  other  crops;  they  can  be 
allowed  to  mature  and  the  bulbs  be  used  for  seed. 

Formaldehyde  solution,  or  formalin,  should  be 
used  on  onions  for  insects  and  smut.  One  pint  of 
the  solution  to  sixteen  gallons  of  water  is  the 
proper  proportion. 

Onions  from  which  seed  are  to  be  taken  should 
have  a  small  neck  and  be  round  in  shape.  Small 
onions  are  preferable  to  large  ones,  as  the  larger 


Parsley  65 

sizes  will  usually  produce  seed  that  will  increase 
the  number  of  thick  necks. 

Onions  which  are  to  be  grown  for  seed  should  be 
stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place  until  planting  time, 
when  they  should  be  set  in  rows  about  a  foot  apart. 
The  sets  should  not  be  closer  than  four  inches  in 
the  row,  thus  giving  the  roots  every  chance  to 
grow  and  to  produce  fine  specimens. 

When  the  seed  pods  in  a  cluster  of  onions  begin 
to  burst  and  shell  out,  it  is  time  to  cut  the  seed. 
From  six  inches  to  a  foot  of  the  stalk  should  be  cut 
with  the  seed,  and  the  seed  should  be  dried  in  a  shady 
spot.  To  get  rid  of  all  the  husk  and  skin,  sift  the 
seed  through  a  fine  sieve. 

To  segregate  the  good  seed  of  onions  from  the  poor, 
put  the  seed  into  a  pail  of  water.  The  good  seed 
will  sink  to  the  bottom  of  the  pail.  The  seed 
should  be  thoroughly  dried  at  once  and  stored 
away. 

PARSLEY 

Parsley  requires  a  rich,  moist  soil  in  order  to 

thrive. 


66  Parsley 

Parsley  seeds  should  be.  soaked  in  warm  water 
for  several  hours  before  planting,  otherwise  the 
seeds  will  require  a  much  longer  period  for  germin- 
ation, and  some  of  them  may  not  germinate  at  all. 

Parsley  will  live  out  of  doors  all  winter  in  the  far 
South  but  cannot  withstand  the  heat  of  summer  if 
left  where  it  receives  the  sun's  rays  all  day.  Hence 
it  should  be  planted  where  it  will  get  only  the 
early  morning  sunlight  during  the  hottest  months. 

A  few  plants  of  parsley  set  in  pots  or  boxes  and 
taken  indoors  for  the  winter  in  the  North  will  insure 
garnish  for  meats  all  the  year  round.  The  same 
plants  may  be  pruned  back  and  set  out  doors 
again  in  the  spring  with  good  result. 

Parsley  may  be  started  in  the  cellar  in  the  autumn 
and  it  will  be  ready  for  use  in  a  few  weeks  after  the 
seeds  are  planted.  The  plants  should  be  put  near 
a  window  where  they  will  receive  the  sunlight 
every  day. 

Parsley  may  be  preserved  during  the  winter  by 
packing  it  in  salt.  A  glass  jar  will  serve  for  pack- 
ing it,  and  there  should  be  placed  in  the  bottom  a 
layer  of  salt  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  a  layer  of 
parsley  two  inches  deep,  another  layer  of  salt, 
etc.,  until  the  jar  is  full. 


Parsnips  67 

Parsley  should  be  thinned  until  there  is  only  one 
plant  to  every  six  inches. 

PARSNIPS 

The  soil  for  par  snips  ^should  be  rich  and  deeply 
prepared,  and  the  plants  should  be  frequently  culti- 
vated during  the  season. 

Seed  should  be  sown  as  early  as  possible  in  the 
spring  in  the  ground  where  they  are  to  grow. 
They  can  best  be  grown  to  advantage  in  rows 
about  twenty  inches  apart  and  only  ten  seeds  to 
the  foot  should  be  sown.  They  should  be  covered 
for  about  an  inch. 

Parsnip  roots  should  be  ready  for  use  in  Sep- 
tember and  may  remain  in  the  ground  and  be  taken 
up  as  needed.  Freezing  in  the  ground  improves  the 
flavor.  The  roots  will  not  be  good  for  a  second 
season,  however.  They  should  be  protected  from 
heavy  snows  by  a  light  mulch  being  placed  over 
them. 

When  parsnips  are  left  for  the  second  year,  the 
roots  should  be  gathered  early  in  the  spring  or 
they  will  send  up  seed  shoots  and  will  be  unfit  for 
eating. 


68  Peas 

PEAS 

Garden  peas  require  a  rather  rich  and  friable  soil 
with  good  drainage  and  fertilizers  that  are  high  in 
nitrogenous  matter  and  should  not  be  mixed  with  the 
soil  until  just  before  planting,  otherwise  the  vines 
will  grow  rapidly  at  the  expense  of  the  pods. 
Land  manured  the  previous  year  will  not  need 
additional  fertilizer. 

When  gathered  young  the  pods  of  sugar  peas 
may  be  eaten  in  the  same  manner  as  snap  beans. 

For  the  best  results -,  peas  should  be  planted  in  fur- 
rows six  inches  deep  and  the  seeds  covered  with  two 
or  three  inches  of  soil.  After  the  plants  are  from 
four  to  six  inches  high  the  soil  should  be  worked  in 
around  them  until  the  trench  is  filled. 

Peas  will  be  easier  to  pick  if  trained  on  a  three- 
foot  poultry  netting  instead  of  using  brush.  This 
has  the  advantage,  too,  of  lasting  season  after 
season. 

The  wrinkled  varieties  of  peas  are  far  superior  in 
quality  to  the  smooth  varieties,  though  they  have 
the  disadvantage  of  requiring  later  planting  than 
the  smooth  varieties  because  of  the  larger  amount 


Peas  69 

of  moisture  which  they  need.    They  are  not  quite 
as  hardy  as  the  smooth  varieties. 

Peas  are  a  legume  and  they  leave  the  soil  in  fine 
condition  for  late  crops  of  potatoes,  tomatoes,  and 
cabbage.  Pea  vines  dug  under  will  benefit  the 
soil  by  making  humus.  The  tender  branches 
are  excellent  for  the  cow. 

Hoeing  or  cultivating  is  the  very  life  of  peas. 

Tobacco  dust  sifted  on  the  pea  vines  while  the 
dew  is  on  them  will  tend  to  keep  off  lice. 

The  planting  of  peas  should  be  at  intervals  of  two 
weeks  for  several  weeks  after  planting  is  started 
in  order  to  have  peas  for  a  long  season. 

When  selecting  seed  peas,  choose  the  vines  on 
which  grow  full  pods.  As  soon  as  the  first  pods 
on  the  vine  become  somewhat  tough  pull  the  vines 
and  allow  the  peas  to  dry  on  the  vines.  The 
peas  should  be  a  light  green  when  they  are  dried 
out. 

When  seed  peas  are  desired  for  a  late  crop,  allow 
the  pods  to  dry  out  thoroughly  on  the  vine  before 

cutting. 


70  Potatoes 

A  wire  fence  on  which  to  train  the  peas,  beans,  and 
other  climbing  vegetables  will  prove  much  cheaper 
in  the  long  run  than  stakes  or  especially  made 
trellises,  not  to  mention  the  greater  ease  with 
which  it  can  be  erected  each  spring  and  taken 
down  and  stored  away  in  the  fall. 

PEPPERS 

Peppers  should  be  sown  in  the  hotbed  in  February 
and  transplanted  to  the  open  ground  as  soon  as  the 
danger  of  trost  is  over.  They  require  a  rich  soil, 
but  will  grow  very  well  in  almost  any  kind  of  soil. 

Pruning  peppers  will  produce  a  fine,  large  variety 
of  fruit. 

Peppers  need  only  an  average  amount  of  mois- 
ture, but  they  should  be  well  watered  when  being 
transplanted.  Peppers  have  a  long  season  and  do 
not  need  to  be  planted  but  once  each  year. 

Peppers  are  easily  injured  and  should  be  gath- 
ered before  frost  falls  on  them. 

POTATOES 

Prom  the  middle  to  the  last  of  June  is  the  usual 
time  for  planting  potatoes  in  the  North. 


Potatoes  71 

A  loose,  rich,  gravelly,  or  sandy  loam  is  desirable 
for  potatoes.  Manure  should  be  applied  to  the  crop 
that  precedes  rather  than  to  the  potato  crop  it- 
self. Hence,  potatoes  following  other  vegetables 
which  have  required  much  fertilizer  will  be  a  very 
successful  method. 

If  potatoes  are  sprouted  in  the  light  before  planting 
it  will  hasten  their  growth.  The  sprouts  should  be 
about  one  fourth  to  one  half  inch  in  length  before 
they  are  planted. 

Potatoes  should  be  cultivated  six  or  seven  times  a 
season,  but  care  must  be  used  not  to  let  the  hoe  or 
fork  scratch  the  young  sprouts  or  they  will  fall  off. 
The  soil  should  be  harrowed  well  before  the  plants 
appear  above  ground.  Early  harrowing  kills 
millions  of  sprouting  weeds  and  avoids  much 
future  work.  The  best  kind  of  harrow  to  use  is  a 
spike-tooth  implement,  as  there  is  practically  no 
danger  of  harming  the  potato  sprouts  with  it. 

A  well-prepared  seed  bed  is  firm  and  in  good  tilth. 
To  have  the  bed  well  prepared  beforehand  will 
have  an  important  bearing  upon  the  quality  and 
quantity  of  the  crop,  as  well  as  save  a  great  deal 
of  work  in  cultivating. 


72  Potatoes 

Potatoes  should  never  "be  planted  twice  in  succes- 
sion in  the  same  spot.  The  substance  required  by 
them  will  be  eaten  up  the  first  time  and  some  other 
vegetable  should  come  in  between,  preferably 
peas  or  beans,  the  tops  of  which  should  be  plowed 
into  the  soil  after  the  bearing  season  is  over. 

All  seed  potatoes  should  be  treated  for  scab  before 
planting.  An  approved  method  is  as  follows: 
Soak  the  whole  seed  for  two  hours  in  a  mixture  of 
one  half  pint  of  formalin  or  formaldehyde  dissolved 
in  sixteen  gallons  of  water.  Next,  dry  and  cut 
the  seed  and  plant  at  once. 

Potatoes  should  be  sprayed  with  Bordeaux-ar -sen- 
ate of  lead  mixture  every  ten  days  for  two  months 
after  the  plants  are  up.  This  will  prevent  bugs 
infecting  them,  while  to  wait  until  the  bugs  have 
started  trouble,  will  mean  a  hard  task  getting  rid 
of  them,  and  perhaps  they  will  get  their  mischief 
in  before  the  task  is  accomplished. 

When~~ growing  potatoes  on  irrigated  land,  the 
ground  should  be  carefully  leveled  and  should  have 
a  fall  of  nearly  two  feet  to  the  hundred.  There 
should  be  good  drainage  for  all  surplus  water. 


Potatoes  73 

Late  potatoes  planted  too  early  will  be  checked  in 
growth  during  the  summer  and  will  not  mature  a 
full  crop. 

It  does  not  pay  to  be  too  sparing  of  seed  potatoes. 
Never  split  the  eyes  when  short  of  seed.  The 
stalks  need  better  backing  than  that  and  should  be 
given  a  substantial  piece  to  start  from. 

To  guard  against  dryness,  plant  in  deep  furrows, 
cover  the  seed  lightly  until  the  plants  are  several 
inches  high,  then  cultivate  and  fill  in  until  the 
ground  is  level.  This  will  hold  the  moisture  in  the 
earth  and  prevent  the  potatoes  drying  out. 

A  sharp  knife  lightens  the  job  of  cutting  seed 
potatoes,  but  to  keep  from  injuring  the  thumb 
at  the  same  time,  an  old  leather  glove  thumb  should 
be  used. 

One  very  effective  way  of  getting  rid  of  scab  on 
potato  seed  is  to  dust  the  pieces  of  potatoes  with 
sulphur. 

It  will  be  a  good  thing  when  people  again  cook 
potatoes  with  their  jackets  on.  The  part  of  the 
tuber  next  to  the  skin  is  the  most  nutritious  and 
has  a  far  more  delicious  flavor  than  that  nearer 
the  center,  and  there  is  absolutely  no  waste  to  the 


74  Potatoes 

potato  when  cooked  in  this  way.     They  require 
only  twenty  minutes  for  boiling. 

Potatoes  should  not  be  dug  until  they  are  mature 
unless  you  are  willing  to  have  quite  a  bit  of  waste. 
They  should  always  be  dug  on  a  dry  day  and  they 
will  be  clean  and  easily  washed. 

Dug  potatoes  will  turn  green  if  exposed  to  the  sun 
too  long,  hence  they  should  be  stored  away  as  soon 
as  dug. 

Spray  the  potatoes  before  the  blight  gets  at  them. 
It  may  not  do  any  good  when  the  blight  once  gets 
a  start.  Late  potatoes  will  require  careful  culti- 
vating and  regular  spraying  throughout  the  month 
to  keep  down  weeds,  conserve  the  moisture,  and 
head  off  blight  and  bugs. 

Pits  in  which  potatoes  are  to  be  stored  should  be 
looked  over  carefully  in  the  fall  of  the  year.  All 
openings  planned  for  ventilation  should  be  closed 
and  sufficient  earth  put  on  to  protect  from  the 
severest  cold.  The  pits  should  be  well  drained  to 
keep  the  water  from  standing  around  them. 

In  digging  potatoes  for  storage,  wait  until  the 
vines  are  dead.  Potatoes  should  be  handled  care- 
fully in  order  that  they  may  not  become  bruised, 


Potatoes  (Sweet)  75 

and  should  be  stored  in  a  cool,  shady  place  until 
time  to  store  in  the  pit  or  cellar. 

The  seed  end  of  potatoes  is  the  end  farthest  from  the 
stem.  When  the  strong  eyes  are  at  the  seed  end, 
the  potatoes  should  be  split  lengthwise  that  a  bud 
of  the  seed  end  may  be  on  the  end  of  each  piece. 

Seed  potatoes  should  be  spread  out  in  the  sun  for 
ten  days  before  planting  in  order  to  start  thick,  short 
sprouts.  Long,  thin  sprouts  are  not  conducive  to 
strong,  healthy  plants.  Protection  from  frost 
should  be  given  the  potatoes  at  night. 

POTATOES  (SWEET) 

Sweet  potatoes  need  a  warm,  sandy  loam  and  thrive 
best  not  farther  North  than  Virginia.  The  last  of 
May  or  the  first  of  June  is  the  best  time  for  planting. 
Those  started  on  a  well-prepared  ground  in  June 
usually  start  growing  better  and  require  less 
cultivation  than  those  planted  in  May,  as  the 
ground  has  then  been  thoroughly  warmed. 

Sweet  potatoes  should  be  thoroughly  dried  out  as 
soon  as  put  into  the  pit.  The  ventilators  should 
be  kept  open  and  the  heating  plant  started  and  the 
temperature  kept  at  one  hundred  degrees  Fahren- 


76  Pumpkins 

heit  until  they  are  thoroughly  dried.  Sweet 
potatoes  always  shrink  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
per  cent.,  and  this  loss  must  be  expected.  They 
should  be  dug  as  soon  as  frost  kills  the  tops,  but 
if  there  are  a  great  number  to  be  dug,  the  work 
had  best  be  begun  ahead  of  frost,  as  it  will  not  do 
to  let  them  lay  too  long. 

PUMPKINS 

The  pumpkin  requires  a  fairly  rich  soil  and  good 
drainage.  The  seed  should  be  planted  in  hills 
from  five  to  seven  feet  apart  and  eight  or  ten  seed 
to  a  hill.  Planted  among  the  corn,  it  will  give 
good  results.  They  should  not  be  planted  until 
all  danger  of  frost  is  over. 

Pumpkins  should  be  picked  with  a  couple  of  inches 
of  the  stem  left  on  or  the  fruit  may  start  to  rot  at  the 
stem  center.  Bugs  also  find  an  easy  entrance 
there.  They  can  be  kept  for  a  long  time  in  dry 
storage. 

It  is  better  to  have  all  the  fertilizer  necessary  in 
the  soil  for  pumpkins  before  they  are  planted,  and 
if  it  is  necessary  to  fertilize  later,  the  fertilizer 
should  not  touch  the  seed  or  the  young  roots. 


Radishes  77 

Too  much  nitrogen  will  produce  long  vines  and  large 
leaves  but  poor  fruit. 

It  has  been  generally  thought  that  pumpkins 
will  cross  with  squashes,  and  melons  with  cucumbers, 
but  this  has  been  proven  not  to  be  the  case,  in 
many  experiments.  Therefore,  they  may  safely 
be  planted  within  close  area. 

RADISHES 

Radishes  planted  in  a  rich,  moist  soil  will  often 
mature  in  two  to  three  weeks  after  planting.  The 
seed  should  be  sown  in  drills  about  a  foot  apart, 
and  the  plants  should  be  thinned  to  prevent 
crowding,  though  one  every  two  inches  is  not  too 
thick. 

In  order  to  have  fresh,  crisp  radishes  throughout 
the  season,  sow  seed  every  two  weeks.  If  radishes 
remain  in  the  ground  too  long,  they  will  have  a 
stale,  flat  taste,  even  if  they  do  not  grow  pithy. 
Radishes  may  be  grown  throughout  the  winter 
in  hotbeds,  requiring  little  attention. 

Sow  both  white  and  red  radishes.  They  will 
make  a  pretty  garnish  for  the  table. 


78  Rhubarb 

Radishes  do  not  require  extreme  heat,  hence  they 
should  be  planted  where  they  will  get  only  the 
morning  sun  and  a  little  of  the  early  afternoon. 
This  can  usually  be  arranged  by  planning  the  bed 
in  a  location  near  a  house  or  barn  where  sun  will 
be  shut  off  in  the  early  afternoon. 


RHUBARB 

The  soil  for  rhubarb  can  hardly  be  too  rich.  The 
quality  of  its  food  supply  depends  upon  the  quick- 
ness with  which  it  grows.  It  is  an  early  spring 
dish  and  should  be  young,  tender,  and  brittle  when 
cut.  It  should  be  sown  rather  deep  when  seed 
are  used,  but  a  most  satisfactory  way  is  to  pur- 
chase a  few  roots.  It  is  a  perennial  and  when 
once  started  multiplies  very  rapidly.  Autumn  is 
the  best  time  for  setting  out  roots. 

Old  hills  of  rhubarb  should  be  divided  in  the  late 
fall  by  removing  the  earth  on  one  side  and  cutting 
away  a  part  of  the  root.  This  root  can  be  planted 
then  for  next  spring's  sprouting,  and  it  can  also  be 
kept  safely  in  a  dry  place  in  the  cellar.  Heavy 
cuttings  should  not  be  made  until  the  roots  are  at 
least  three  years  old. 


Rhubarb  79 

Very  early  rhubarb  can  be  grown  by  putting  a 
box,  or  a  barrel  with  the  top  and  bottom  removed, 
over  the  plant  during  the  latter  part  of  the  winter, 
banking  fresh  horse  manure  around  the  box,  and 
partly  filling  it  with  manure.  This  will  force 
the  growth. 

Rhubarb  can  be  had  during  the  winter  by  digging 
up  the  .old  roots,  allowing  them  to  freeze,  and  then 
planting  them  several  inches  deep  in  loose  ground 
in  the  cellar,  in  a  cool,  dark  place.  It  will  take 
only  from  seven  to  ten  weeks  for  nice,  long  stalks 
to  be  produced.  Roots  are  of  no  further  use  after 
they  have  once  been  forced. 

Rhubarb  roots  should  not  be  planted  closer  than 
three  feet,  otherwise  they  will  grow  and  overcrowd 
each  other  and  dwarf  the  plants. 

Rhubarb  pods  and  seed  stems  should  not  be  allowed 
to  mature  unless  the  plant  is  of  no  further  use  as  a 
food  producer.  When  the  plant  goes  to  seed  there 
will  be  no  further  usefulness. 

Rhubarb  helps  to  put  the  system  in  good  condition. 
No  better  tonic  can  be  taken  in  the  springtime. 
The  acid  of  the  plant  counteracts  the  effect  of  the 
heavy  diet  of  the  past  winter. 


8o  Rosemary 

An  excellent  shortcake  can  be  made  with  rhubarb. 
The  cake  should  be  baked  just  the  same  as  it  is 
baked  for  strawberry  shortcake  and  then  stewed 
rhubarb  spread  between  each  layer.  This  is 
excellent  for  the  children,  and  if  given  them,  they 
will  require  no  liver  tonics. 

Look  at  rhubarb  roots  closely  when  purchasing 
and  see  that  healthy  stock  is  given  you.  Spindling, 
diseased  roots  can  never  be  made  to  produce 
fine,  big  stalks.  In  growing  rhubarb  in  large  quanti- 
ties, plant  the  roots  in  rows  three  feet  apart  and 
each  root  should  have  three  feet  of  space  between 
it  and  the  next  root. 

Rhubarb  should  be  mulched  in  the  fall  and  enough 
manure  applied  to  keep  the  roots  warm  all  winter. 
To  heap  the  manure  up  around  the  roots,  first 
having  cut  off  all  stems  remaining,  leaving  it  there 
until  fall  when  it  should  be  well  worked  into  the 
ground,  will  be  pretty  sure  to  produce  early,  tender 
rhubarb. 

ROSEMARY 

Rosemary  requires  a  light,  warm  soil  and  pro- 
tection from  the  cold.  The  seed  should  be  sown 
in  the  spring  in  drills  to  about  an  inch  in  depth  and 


Rutabaga  Si 

the  young  plants  should  be  thinned  to  seven  or 
eight  inches  apart. 

Rosemary  cuttings  should  be  taken  from  the 
bush  in  the  spring  before  growth  starts  or  late  in 
the  summer.  When  transplanting  young  plants, 
the  work  should  be  done  in  the  fall  in  the  South 
or  in  the  spring  in  the  North.  All  plants  and 
cuttings  should  be  kept  well  watered  for  several 
days  after  the  re-planting. 

Rosemary  bushes  will  grow  more  luxuriantly  if 
they  are  pruned  in  the  late  winter  or  early  spring. 
Properly  cared  for,  the  plants  will  live  a  number  of 
years,  and  the  older  bushes  will  be  much  more 
hardy  and  give  forth  better  leaves  than  younger 
plants. 

RUTABAGA 

The  rutabaga  requires  a  rich  soil  and  plenty  of 
room  for  the  roots.  It  is  cultivated  a  good  deal  like 
the  turnip  and  makes  a  really  excellent  table 
vegetable,  though  not  given  the  appreciation 
it  deserves. 

Rutabaga  seed  may  be  sown  broadcast  and 
the  young  plants  thinned  out  when  they  have 


82  Salsify 

attained  a  couple  of  inches'  growth.    The  seed  may 
be  started  as  soon  as  danger  of  frost  is  over. 

Equal  parts  of  rutabaga  and  white  potatoes 
mashed  together  make  a  delicious  dish. 

SAGE 

Sage  is  a  very  hardy  plant  and  will  grow  under 
almost  any  soil  conditions.  It  is  best  propagated 
by  cuttings,  though  it  may  be  easily  grown  from 
seed.  The  root  clumps  should  be  divided  every 
other  year  or  they  will  grow  matted  and  retard 
the  growth  of  the  leaves  and  stems. 

The  broad-leaved  sage  is  the  best  variety  both  with 
regard  to  flavor  and  the  ease  with  which  it  can  be 
grown.  The  first  year  it  should  be  cut  only  once, 
but  successive  years  will  produce  three  or  four 
cuttings  per  season.  It  should  always  be  cut 
before  the  flower  stems  appear. 

SALSIFY 

Salsify,  or  vegetable  oyster  plant,  is  deserving  of 
more  general  cultivation.  When  boiled  and  coated 
with  cracker  crumbs  and  fried  in  butter  it  makes 
a  most  delicious  dish.  It  can  be  sown  early  in 


Salsify  83 

August  for  use  the  following  spring,  or  sown  in  the 
spring  for  use  late  in  the  summer. 

Salsify  may  be  dug  in  the  autumn  and  stored  in 
the  cellar  until  wanted,  or  it  may  remain  in  the 
ground  during  the  winter.  It  should  be  treated 
much  like  the  parsnip  in  cultivating. 

Salsify  is  a  biennial  and  if  the  roots  are  not  dug 
before  the  second  season  they  will  sprout  stems  and 
produce  seed.  It  is  hardly  worth  while  raising 
seed,  however,  as  those  purchased  can  usually  be 
relied  upon.  It  is  of  a  weedy  nature,  and  care 
should  be  taken  that  it  does  not  run  wild  from 
seeding  too  freely. 

Salsify  grows  best,  in  a  deep,  well-enriched  soil. 
If  the  soil  is  too  heavy,  or  the  manure  is  not  thor- 
oughly rotted,  the  roots  will  be  straggly.  The 
best  salsify  bed  is  one  which  has  been  enriched  for 
some  other  vegetable,  no  other  fertilizer  being 
added  except  manure  which  should  be  buried 
about  a  foot  deep. 

Salsify  roots  may  be  left  in  the  ground  during  the 
winter  and  only  pulled  up  when  required  for  use. 
They  should  all  be  taken  up  in  the  early  spring 
before  they  begin  to  sprout  new  growth  and  should 
be  stored  either  in  sand  or  in  straw  and  earth. 


84  Sea-Kale 

Salsify  seed  should  be  sown  broadcast  when  the 
danger  of  jrost  is  over  and  the  plants  should  be 
thinned  to  a  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  when 
they  have  grown  to  be  three  or  four  inches  high. 

SAVORY 

The  soil  for  savory  should  be  rich  but  not  too  heavy. 
Summer  savory  is  an  annual,  but  winter  savory  is  a 
hardy  perennial,  and  hence  is  the  most  satisfactory 
to  grow.  The  seed  of  both  kinds  should  be  sown 
under  glass  in  March  or  April  and  the  young 
plants  transferred  to  the  open  ground  as  soon  as 
danger  of  frost  is  over. 

Only  the  leaves  and  tips  of  winter  savory  should 
be  used,  and  these  should  be  picked  off  as  wanted ; 
summer  savory  may  be  cut  while  flowering  and  the 
whole  plant  used. 

Cuttings  and  root  divisions  of  winter  savory 
should  be  made  in  the  spring  and  they  should  be 
kept  well  watered  until  the  roots  are  firmly  estab- 
lished. 

SEA-KALE 

The  soil  for  sea-kale  should  be  rich  and  moist 
in  order  that  the  shoots  may  grow  quickly.  Lack 


Sea-Kale  85 

of  nourishment  will  mean  slow-growing  plants 
which  will  be  tough  when  eaten  as  well  as  lacking 
in  delicacy.  The  ground  should  be  deeply  dug 
before  planting  kale,  and  cultivation  should  be 
thorough  and  regular. 

Sea-kale  may  be  raised  from  seed  sown  broadcast 
when  the  ground  has  been  warmed.  The  seed 
should  be  sown  in  trenches  a  couple  of  inches  deep 
and  the  trenches  about  fifteen  inches  apart. 

Sea-kale  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  in  March 
and  the  young  plants  transferred  to  their  perma- 
nent quarters  as  soon  as  they  have  made  six  leaves. 
Propagation  by  root  cuttings  is  far  more  satisfactory, 
however,  than  propagation  from  seed.  The  divi- 
sion of  the  roots  also  should  be  made  in  March. 

Sea-kale  should  be  cut  when  it  is  about  six  or 
eight  inches  long.  Not  less  than  half  an  inch  of  the 
old  wood  should  be  taken  off  at  the  same  time. 

Covering  the  crowns  of  sea-kale  with  ten  or 
twelve  inches  of  sand  after  the  plants  have  died 
down  will  cause  the  production  of  very  good  kale 
without  resorting  to  forcing.  There  should  be 
absolutely  no  light  permitted  to  reach  the  plant 
during  the  growing  period. 


86  Spinach 

SHALLOTS 

Shallots  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil,  but  they 
thrive  best  in  an  open  situation  in  soil  that  has 
been  well  fertilized  for  other  vegetables.  The 
bulbs  should  be  planted  as  soon  as  the  ground  has 
grown  a  bit  warm  and  should  be  set  just  deep 
enough  in  the  ground  to  hold  them  firm. 

Little  cultivation  is  required  for  shallots  beyond 
keeping  down  weeds.  When  the  stems  die  down 
in  midsummer  the  bulbs  should  be  pulled  up  and 
dried  in  the  sun,  turning  them  over  daily  and 
taking  them  indoors  at  night.  When  they  are 
thoroughly  dry,  they  should  be  stored  away  in  the 
attic  or  in  a  very  dry  cellar. 

SPINACH 

Spinach  requires  a  very  fine,  rich  soil.  Pulver- 
ized soil  will  yield  splendid  results,  but  if  this  is 
too  tedious,  at  least  a  thorough  harrowing  should 
be  given. 

Spinach  thrives  in  a  rather  cool  climate  and  attains 
its  best  development  in  the  Middle  South  where 
it  can  be  grown  in  the  open  ground  all  winter. 
The  plants  will  make  a  new  growth  in  the  spring, 
and  hence  it  is  a  most  economical  vegetable. 


Spinach  87 

A  light  mulch  of  manure  which  contains  a  good 
deal  of  straw  should  be  applied  to  the  ground  where 
spinach  is  planted  to  protect  the  young  plants  from 
freezing  during  the  cold  days  and  nights  of  winter. 

The  plant  known  as  New  England  spinach  is  not 
a  true  spinach,  but  grows  much  larger  and  should 
be  planted  in  rows  three  feet  apart,  with  the  plants 
about  fifteen  inches  from  each  other.  This  variety 
of  vegetable  will  stand  heat  much  better  than  the 
ordinary  spinach. 

To  soak  spinach  seeds  in  hot  water  for  several 
hours  before  planting  will  hasten  germination. 
Spinach  for  early  spring  use  should  be  sown  in 
September  or  October,  and  if  covered  over  with 
two  inches  of  straw  during  the  winter  the  cold 
will  do  no  harm. 

Spinach  for  eating  in  the  autumn  should  be  sown 
in  August.  Give  thorough  cultivation  and  thin 
out  the  plants  that  the  growth  may  not  be 
dwarfed. 

Nitrate  of  soda  used  as  a  top  dressing  for  soil 
when  preparing  the  spinach  patch  will  be  beneficial. 
The  soil  can  hardly  be  made  too  rich. 


88  Squash 

SQUASH 

The  bush  variety  of  squash  should  be  planted  in 
hills  four  or  five  feet  apart  each  way,  while  the 
running  variety  should  be  given  at  least  twelve 
feet  in  which  to  spread.  Three  or  four  hills  or 
vines  will  be  all  that  is  needed  for  a  small,  family. 

Squashes  should  not  be  planted  until  the  ground  is 
thoroughly  warmed,  as  they  require  a  warm  soil, 
and  a  rather  rich  one.  They  will  grow,  however, 
in  almost  any  soil. 

Only  well-ripened  squashes  should  be  stored  and 
they  should  be  gathered  before  frost  falls  on  them, 
as  a  frost  of  average  severity  will  impair  their  keep- 
ing qualities.  They  should  never  be  pulled  from  the 
vine  but  should  be  cut  with  a  knife,  leaving  on 
about  an  inch  of  stem  as  a  protection  against  bugs 
entering  the  fruit,  and  a  precaution  against  too 
much  moisture  starting  the  fruit  to  rot.  They 
should  be  handled  carefully  to  avoid  bruising 
and  should  be  stored  in  a  moderately  warm  but 
well-ventilated  room.  A  temperature  of  from 
fifty  to  sixty  degrees  Fahrenheit  will  be  just  about 
right. 

The  summer  variety  of  squash  will  not  be 
satisfactory  for  fall  use,  as  they  do  not  keep 


Thyme  89 

well,  and  the  skin  grows  hard,  rendering  them 
unpalatable.  Winter  squashes  can  be  used  in  the 
summer,  however. 

When  the  necks  of  squashes  are  warty  the  fruit 
will  be  dry  and  poor  in  quality. 

TARRAGON 

Tarragon  requires  very  little  fertilization,  but  it 
likes  plenty  of  sunlight.  Very  little  moisture  is 
required  and  only  the  ordinary  amount  of  culti- 
vation. 

If  the  leaves  and  tips  of  tarragon  are  steeped  in 
good,  pure  vinegar  for  twenty-four  hours,  it  will 
make  a  delicious  tarragon  vinegar  for  salads.  The 
peculiar  flavor  is  very  appetizing,  and  tarragon  is 
well  worth  growing  for  the  vinegar  alone. 

True  tarragon  seed  is  almost  unheard  of.  It  is 
best  propagated  by  root  cuttings  or  slips,  though 
seed  may  be  obtained  of  an  inferior  plant  called 
Russian  tarragon. 

THYME 

There  are  two  varieties  of  thyme:  mother-of- 
thyme  and  lemon  thyme.  Either  will  be  very 


90  Tomatoes 

pleasing  when  used  as  a  seasoning.  Seed  should  be 
sown  in  trenches  an  inch  deep,  or  a  division  of  the 
root  may  be  made  in  the  spring  before  growth  has 
started. 

Thyme  requires  plenty  of  sunlight  and  a  light,  dry 
soil.  Given  an  occasional  bit  of  cultivation  to 
keep  the  weeds  down,  it  will  require  little  else.  It 
is  best,  however,  to  renew  it  every  two  or  three 
years  and  to  give  it  a  new  location. 

TOMATOES 

\ 

Tomatoes  are  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  of 
vegetables.  They  will  grow  in  almost  any  kind  of 
soil  but  thrive  best  in  a  fairly  rich  loam.  They 
require  plenty  of  sunlight  in  order  to  grow  quickly. 

To  have  an  early  crop  of  tomatoes  start  planting 
the  seed  in  the  North  about  the  first  of  March;  in 
the  South,  earlier  than  this.  They  may  be 
planted  in  a  hotbed  or  flat  in  the  warm  zone  but 
should  be  kept  in  a  greenhouse  in  a  cold  climate, 
until  ready  for  transplanting. 

Late  tomatoes  may  be  started  the  last  of  April, 
and  generally  the  tomatoes  from  a  late  planting 
are  superior  to  those  planted  earlier. 


Tomatoes  91 

In  order  to  have  strong,  stocky  tomato:  plants,  set 
them  at  least  two  feet  apart,  and  even  three  feet 
will  be  better.  Each  fruit  needs  to  have  the 
sun's  rays  fall  on  it  if  it  is  to  ripen  thoroughly  and 
properly  while  on  the  bush. 

If  the  tomato  plants  do  not  seem  to  be  growing 
vigorously,  sprinkle  fertilizer  or  chicken  manure 
between  the  rows  and  work  it  in.  The  roots  of 
the  tomato  will  spread  and  reach  out  for  the  food. 

Keep  the  frames  in  which  tomatoes  are  planted 
uncovered  whenever  the  weather  will  permit.  The 
sooner  the  plants  can  resist  cold  the  better  for 
them.  And  do  not  forget  that  the  plants  require 
cultivation  while  still  in  the  frame. 

To  transplant  twice  will  insure  more  vigorous, 
healthy  plants.  The  last  planting,  to  the  garden 
bed,  should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  weather  will 
permit,  i.  e.,  as  soon  as  there  is  no  longer  danger 
of  their  being  nipped  by  the  frost. 

Under  favorable  conditions  the  earliest  varieties 
of  tomatoes  require  one  hundred  days  from  the  time 
seed  is  sown  until  the  first  ripe  fruit  is  produced. 
The  largest  and  best  fruit  will  usually  mature  in 
about  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  days. 


92  Tomatoes 

Tomatoes  either  should  be  staked  or  kept  off  the 
ground  by  means  of  a  frame.  There  is  difference 
of  opinion  as  to  which  is  the  best  method,  but  the 
fruit  should  be  kept  off  the  ground  in  some  manner 
or  it  will  rot  and  attract  bugs,  and  better  colored 
and  more  even  fruit  will  result  from  this  method  of 
protection. 

When  picking  tomatoes  for  shipment,  they  should 
be  taken  from  the  bushes  as  soon  as  the  first  red 
tinge  appears.  Properly  picked,  and  packed  in 
such  way  that  they  will  not  bruise,  they  will  arrive 
at  their  destination  in  almost  as  good  form  as  if 
they  were  just  taken  from  the  bush. 

Overripe  tomatoes  should  be  fed  to  the  chickens. 
One  tomato  which  has  remained  too  long  on  the 
vine  will  draw  flies  and  insects  that  eat  into  the 
sound  tomatoes. 

When  tomato  plants  are  injured  by  fly-beetles, 
spray  with  Bordeaux-ar senate  of  lead  mixture  as  soon 
as  the  plants  are  set  in  the  field.  (Directions  for 
making  this  spray  are  given  elsewhere  in  this 
book.) 

In  case  of  a  cold  snap,  the  tomato  plants  can  be 
protected  by  turning  a  furrow  toward  them  on  one 
side  of  the  row,  and  then  bending  them  over  against 


Tomatoes  93 

the  ridge  and  covering  them  with  about  two  inches 
of  soil. 

The  best  tomatoes  will  be  produced  from  seed 
which  have  ripened  on  the  plants  early  in  the 
preceding  season.  There  should  be  no  defect 
on  the  tomato  at  the  blossom  end  or  the  seed  will 
be  imperfect. 

Tomatoes  for  seed  should  be  allowed  to  stand 
after  they  are  picked  until  they  are  thoroughly 
ripe,  when  they  should  be  cut  crosswise  to  expose 
the  cells.  The  core  should  be  as  ripe  and  soft  as 
the  tomato  pulp  itself. 

All  green  or  nearly  mature  tomatoes  should  be 
picked  just  before  frost,  with  stem  attached, 
handled  carefully  to  avoid  bruising,  and  spread  out 
upon  the  floor  or  on  a  shelf  in  the  cellar,  if  it  is  dry 
enough,  otherwise  in  the  pantry.  When  ripened 
in  this  way  they  are  quite  delicious  and  if  insects 
do  not  get  at  them  they  will  keep  for  quite  a  long 
while. 

Pruning  and  training  tomatoes  will  insure  a  larger 
and  better  crop,  as  well  as  shorten  the  time  of  ripen- 
ing. Plants  that  are  pruned  will  produce  ripe 
fruit  ten  days  earlier  than  the  same  variety  that  is 
not  pruned. 


94  Tomatoes 

Those  who  have  had  no  experience  in  pruning 
tomatoes  might  do  well  to  wait  until  the  vines 
blossom  before  trimming  out  the  branches,  when  it 
can  be  seen  where  the  thickest  spots  will  be.  The 
smaller  and  weaker  branches  should  be  thinned 
out,  leaving  the  more  vigorous  ones. 

Tall,  top-heavy  vines  should  be  guarded  against, 
or  the  fruit  will  sag  to  the  ground. 

The  longer  tomatoes  can  be  cultivated  without 
injuring  the  plants  the  better  the  yield  and  quality 
of  the  fruit.  Shallow  cultivation  can  be  kept  up 
until  the  ripening  season  is  well  advanced  if  the 
vines  have  been  properly  staked.  This  is  especi- 
ally important  during  a  drought. 

When  especially  large  and  fine  fruit  are  desired, 
prune  the  tomato  to  one  stem,  usually  the  first 
main  stem.  All  laterals,  or  side  branches,  and  all 
suckers  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  they  start 
in  order  to  save  all  the  sustenance  for  the  one 
stem. 

Removing  branches  with  the  fingers  is  just  as  satis- 
factory in  every  way  as  cutting  with  a  knife  and 
there  will  not  be  the  danger  of  the  knife  injuring 
some  part  of  the  branch  which  is  not  to  be  cut. 


Tomatoes  95 

When  a  plant  with  two  stems  is  desired,  select  the 
main  stem  as  when  growing  to  only  one,  and  in 
addition  retain  the  first  lateral  that  appears  on  the 
axil  of  the  leaf.  The  nearer  the  ground  this  lat- 
eral, the  better.  Two  stakes  should  be  used 
instead  of  one  to  support  these  two  stems. 
The  same  method  applies  to  three  stems. 

A  wire  trellis  is  excellent  for  training  tomatoes 
and  has  the  advantage  of  being  useful  for  many, 
many  seasons.  Hooks  on  which  picture  wire  is 
hung  can  be  utilized  by  hanging  them  on  the 
wire  and  drooping  the  vine  over  the  lower  curve. 

Excess  water  around  tomatoes  will  be  likely  to 
cause  "damping  off."  Proper  drainage  should 
be  prepared  and  spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
will  nearly  always  correct  the  trouble.  If  it 
does  not,  all  affected  fruit  should  be  burned.  It 
may  be  wiser  to  burn  the  fruit  before  waiting  to 
see  what  spraying  does  for  the  trouble. 

One  good  way  of  drying  tomato  seed  is  to  squeeze 
out  the  pulp  and  seed  of  the  fruit  and  leave  it  in 
the  hot  sun  for  several  days,  when  to  it  should  be 
added  enough  water  to  cover.  If  the  seed  is 
stirred  for  a  few  minutes  to  rid  it  of  pulp,  it  will 
sink  to  the  bottom  of  the  water.  Next  pour  off 


96  Turnips 

the  water  and  wash  the  seed  thoroughly  and  dry 
in  the  sun,  turning  the  seed  over  until  you  are  sure 
all  are  dried. 

TURNIPS 

Turnips  require  a  rich  soil  and  the  seed  should 
be  sown  in  drills  a  foot  apart  as  early  in  the  spring 
as  is  safe,  considering  frost,  when  the  roots  will 
be  ready  for  use  before  the  weather  is  hot. 

The  seed  bed  for  turnips  should  be  very  fine, 
preferably  pulverized,  then  rolled.  The  best  re- 
sults will  be  obtained  by  sowing  the  seed  after  a 
rain  and  covering  the  seed  very  lightly  with  earth. 

In  sowing  for  late  turnips,  under  favorable  condi- 
tions the  seed  sown  the  first  week  in  September 
will  produce  turnips  of  better  quality  than  those 
sown  in  August.  The  safest  method  is  to  sow  in 
August  and  again  in  September.  The  difficulty 
of  sowing  in  August  is  lack  of  moisture  to  germinate 
the  seed. 

Turnips  may  be  stored  in  the  cellar  for  use  dur- 
ing the  winter  or  may  be  buried  in  a  pit  out  of 
doors,  but  before  they  are  stored  all  tops  should  be 
removed  to  safeguard  against  decay. 


Vegetable  Marrow  97 

The  tops  of  turnips  make  excellent  "greens"  and 
in  some  localities  they  are  raised  for  the  tops  rather 
than  the  roots.  They  should  be  cooked  as  spinach 
is  cooked,  and  the  addition  of  a  little  salt  pork  when 
boiling  adds  greatly  to  the  flavor.  The  water 
in  which  they  are  cooked  makes  very  tasty  soup 
stock. 

Turnips  are  hardy  and  several  frosts  will  not  hurt 
them.  They  should  not  be  allowed  to  scald,  how- 
ever, as  this  will  cause  them  to  rot. 

Unless  turnips  are  thinned  at  just  the  right  time, 
they  will  be  a  disappointment.  They  should  be 
thinned  out  just  as  soon  as  they  have  grown  large 
enough  to  be  able  to  see  which  are  to  be  the  hardy 
plants.  If  they  are  not  thinned  at  the  proper  time 
the  roots  will  be  tough  and  stringy  when  mature. 

VEGETABLE  MARROW 

Vegetable  marrows  require  a  moderately  rich  soil 
and  frecpient  and  thorough  cultivation  in  order  that 
they  may  grow  quickly  and  be  tender. 

The  vegetable  marrow  is  closely  allied  to  the 
pumpkin  both  as  to  species  and  habit  of  growth, 
the  principal  difference  being  that  marrows  are 
used  while  young  and  tender  and  may  be  baked 


98  Watermelons 

and  served  very  much  as  the  sweet  potato.  They 
should  be  gathered  while  the  outside  skin  is  still  so 
tender  that  it  may  be  easily  broken  by  the  finger 
nail. 

The  small  varieties  of  vegetable  marrow  are  far 
more  palatable  than  the  large  varieties. ~~  Marrows 
should  not  be  peeled  before  they  are  cooked.  The 
very  best  plan  is  to  grow  the  small  variety  and  cook 
them  whole. 

Ordinarily  vegetable  marrow  seeds  are  sown  out 
of  doors  in  May,  but  to  get  an  early  start,  they 
may  be  sown  in  pots  indoors  in  April.  The  pots 
should  be  set  out  of  doors  a  little  while  each  day 
to  harden  the  plants  before  transplanting  them. 

WATERMELONS 

The  watermelon  requires  plenty  of  room  as  the 
vine  grows  to  a  great  length.  They  should  be 
planted  ten  feet  apart  one  way  by  at  least  four 
feet  the  other.  The  land  should  be  quite  rich  and 
should  have  quite  a  high  percentage  of  sand. 

Watermelons  should  not  be  grown  in  the  same 
location  year  after  year.  A  rotation  of  crops  is 


Watermelons  99 

most  advisable  for  this  fruit  if  large,   luscious 
melons  are  to  be  produced. 

Watermelon  seed  should  be  sown  in  pots  or  in 
inverted  sod  indoors  in  April  or  May  in  order  to 
produce  early  melons.  In  sowing  out  of  doors, 
defer  until  June.  The  seed  should  be  set  in  the 
ground  with  the  eye  down  and  about  a  dozen  seeds 
planted  in  one  hill. 

Watch  out  for  the  cucumber  beetle  on  the  water- 
melon  vines  until  the  foliage  is  toughened.  Spray 
with  Bordeaux  mixture. 

Melons  need  a  very  abundant  supply  of  moisture 
early  in  the  season  but  produce  fruit  of  the  best 
quality  if  the  soil  is  comparatively  dry  during  the 
ripening  season.  Soil  moisture  can  be  conserved 
by  frequent  cultivation.  This  applies  both  to 
watermelons  and  muskmelons. 

Watermelons  which  have  the  thinnest  rinds  and 
are  of  a  deep  green  color  will  contain  seed  which  will 
produce  the  strongest  vines  and  the  reddest-mealed 
fruit.  Watermelon  seed  do  not  have  to  be  dried 
before  washing  as  is  the  case  with  muskmelons  and 
cucumbers. 


SOIL  AND  FERTILIZATION 

No  one  would  attempt  to  go  into  the  banking 
business  without  first  learning  something  of  the 
principles  of  banking;  no  one  would  apply  for 
admittance  to  the  bar  without  first  fitting  himself 
for  pleading;  and  no  one  would  go  into  the  ship- 
building industry  without  a  knowledge  of  the 
principles  on  which  ships  are  built.  Yet  almost 
anyone  feels  himself  competent  to  start  a  garden 
and  grow  vegetables  without  giving  agriculture 
much  thought.  If  he  sticks  a  few  plants  in  the 
soil  and  they  chance  to  grow  and  flourish  he 
thinks  he  has  the  gift  of  gardening.  Well,  garden- 
ing is  a  gift,  but  success  does  not  depend  so  much 
upon  a  gift  for  gardening  as  it  does  upon  a  gift 
for  detail  and  perseverance.  Vegetables  must  be 
studied.  Every  plant  is,  on  a  smaller  scale,  de- 
serving of  as  much  attention  as  every  individual. 
Plants  vary  widely  in  their  requirements,  and  the 
condition  of  the  soil  is  the  first  thing  to  be  studied 
when  planting  the  garden.  Nitrogenous  food, 

100 


Soil  and  Fertilization  101 

which  is  so  beneficial  for  plants  grown  for  foliage, 
will  not  be  profitable  for  plants  which  are  grown 
for  pods. 

Nearly  all  the  States  in  the  Union  have  Agricul- 
tural Experiment  Stations  (a  list  of  which  may  be 
found  by  referring  to  the  index),  and  it  is  the 
business  of  those  in  charge  of  the  Stations  to  an- 
alyze soil  sent  them  by  gardeners  and  to  tell  them 
what  kind  of  fertilizer  should  be  added  to  enrich 
the  soil.  A  list  of  the  vegetables  desired  to  be 
grown  should  accompany  the  package  of  soil,  that 
special  attention  may  be  given  to  the  analysis 
with  reference  to  the  requirements  for  these  par- 
ticular vegetables.  A  somewhat  sandy  soil  can 
be  made  productive  of  almost  any  vegetable  by 
the  addition  of  the  necessary  fertilizer,  for  the 
sand  foundation  will  insure  good  drainage,  and 
supplies  more  warmth  than  a  heavier  soil.  Clay 
makes  a  very  poor  foundation  for  the  garden 
plot.  It  does  not  drain  readily  nor  does  it  warm 
up  early  in  the  season,  and  it  is  difficult  to 
cultivate  as  it  is  hard  when  dry  and  soggy  when 
wet. 

Soil  that  has  been  very  poor  will  be  much 
improved  if  clover  is  planted  on  it  for  a  couple  of 
seasons  and  this  clover,  together  with  any  other 
foliage,  plowed  under  in  the  fall  for  the  making  of 


IO2  Soil  and  Fertilization 

humus.  Humus  will  prevent  clay  soil  from  be- 
coming soggy  and  hard  and  it  will  assist  the  sandy 
soil  to  hold  moisture.  Where  the  soil  is  too  rich, 
or  where  it  is  soggy,  lime  applied  very  generously 
will  have  a  neutralizing  effect,  but  soil  should  be 
analyzed  when  an  amateur  is  planning  the  planting 
before  the  risk  is  taken  of  making  the  soil  poor 
and  unproductive. 

When  supplying  fertilizer  in  the  form  of  manure, 
it  is  best  always  to  apply  it  in  the  fall  and  plow 
it  under  for  a  depth  of  several  inches.  It  will 
then  be  in  a  very  decomposed  and  friable  state  for 
spring  planting  and  there  will  be  no  danger  of 
crops  suffering  from  burning  as  is  the  case  when 
fresh  manure  is  applied.  An  acre  of  ground  re- 
quires at  least  thirty-five  tons  of  manure  and  an 
additional  four  to  six  tons  will  not  be  too  generous 
a  supply.  Aside  from  the  soil  being  in  better 
condition  by  means  of  the  manure  having  been 
applied  several  months  before  planting  time,  there 
is  also  the  advantage  in  being  able  to  plant  much 
earlier  than  if  it  is  necessary  to  wait  for  the  frost 
to  be  out  of  the  ground  before  harrowing  and  fer- 
tilizing. Plowing  and  fertilizing  in  the  fall  is 
particularly  beneficial  with  reference  to  clay  soils, 
as  the  snow  penetrating  the  earth  will  have  a  good 
effect  in  breaking  up  the  lumps. 


Soil  and  Fertilization  103 

After  the  soil  has  been  tested  and  enriched  in 
accordance  with  the  vegetables  to  be  grown,  the 
garden  should  be  carefully  laid  out  with  a  view  to 
choosing  the  best  location  for  each  particular  plant. 
Some  vegetables  do  not  require  very  strong  sun- 
light. Lettuce,  for  example,  requires  a  great  deal 
of  moisture,  as  does  asparagus,  hence  these 
vegetables  should  not  be  planted  where  the  sun 
will  constantly  draw  on  the  moisture  or  the  result 
will  be  very  slow  growth  and  tough,  stringy  vege- 
tables when  mature. 

And  then,  another  very  important  feature  in 
planting  the  garden  is  to  arrange  for  a  repetition 
of  crops.  On  another  page  in  this  book  will  be 
found  a  table  of  "successive  plantings  which  has 
worked  out  successfully  in  instances  personally 
known  to  the  author. 

Rotation  of  crops  tends  to  produce  a  very  ex- 
cellent soil.  The  same  kind  of  vegetables  grown 
year  after  year  in  the  same  spot  will  in  time  take 
from  the  soil  all  the  food  which  is  needed  by  that 
particular  plant-life,  and  will  leave  a  surplus  of 
plant-food  of  another  kind  which  has  not  been 
needed  by  the  vegetation  grown  there.  Rotation 
also  tends  to  destroy  weeds,  and  insects  do  not 
infest  a  spot  where  different  crops  are  planted  each 
year. 


104  Soil  and  Fertilization 

For  small  gardens,  the  folio  wing  fertilizer s  should 
be  applied  one  half  ounce  to  the  square  yard: 

Sulphate  of  Ammonia  Nitrate  of  Soda 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia  Nitrate  of  Potash 

Kainite  Sulphate  of  iron 

The  following  should  be  used  two  ounces  to  the 
square  yard: 

Bone 
Dried  Blood 

Heavy  soils  that  have  been  overfed  will  be 
benefited  by  the  use  of  a  dressing  of  sulphate  of 
lime,  applied  in  the  fall.  Guano  is  excellent  for 
spring  and  summer  use  in  the  proportion  of  an 
ounce  to  the  square  yard  or  half  an  ounce  to  a 
gallon  of  water.  Guano  should  be  applied  in  the 
spring  or  summer. 

The  State  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  in  the 
various  States  will  analyze  soil  without  charge, 
advising  just  what  properties  it  lacks,  and  it  can 
then  be  fertilized  intelligently  without  waiting 
to  find  that  the  result  of  sowing  is  a  poor 
crop. 

Where  the  soil  is  healthy,  i.  e.,  free  from  insects, 
grass  and  other  vegetation  may  be  plowed  or 
spaded  up  and  turned  under  to  form  humus. 


Soil  and  Fertilization  105 

It  should  be    parched   by   the   sun   to   hasten 
deterioration. 

Once  a  year  the  garden  should  be  covered  with 
manure.  It  should  be  placed  on  the  soil  late  in 
the  fall  before  the  ground  is  spaded  or  plowed. 
Horse  manure  is  best,  and  fresh  manure  is  not 
nearly  so  good  as  rotted  manure.  Being  put  on 
in  the  fall  and  plowed  under  it  has  all  winter  in 
which  to  mix  with  the  earth  and  the  snows  and 
rain  will  help  greatly  in  rotting  it. 

Every  garden  book  should  contain  a  table  for 

guidance  in  fertilizing  the  garden.    The  following 

table,  borrowed  from  a  reliable  authority,  is  highly 

recommended  by  two  gardeners  who  have  given  it 

practical  tests: 

Per  sq.  yd.  When  to  apply  Remark 

Sulphate  of  Ammonia     ^  oz.    Spring  J4  oz.  may  be 

mixed  with   i 
gal.   of  water 

Nitrate  of  Soda  K  °z'     During  growth    Same  quantity 

of  plants  if  mixed  with 

water 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia     ^  oz.    Spring 

Sulphate  of  Iron  K  oz.    Spring  Same     quantity 

to  2  gal.  of 
water 

Guano  I  oz.      Spring  for  sum-  tf  oz.  to  gal.  of 

mer  water 

Dried  Blood  2  oz.      Spring  I  oz.  to  gal.  of 

water  (in- 
stead of  am- 
monia) 


io6  Soil  and  Fertilization 

Per  sg_.  yd.  When  to  apply  Remark 

Nitrate  of  Potash          >£  oz.     Spring  X  oz.  to  gal.  of 

water 

Crushed  Bone  or  2  oz.      Autumn  Used     in  I  con- 

Bone  Meal  nection     with 

nitrogen    and 

potash 
Basic  Slag  4  oz.      Autumn  (Used  instead  of 

bone) 
Kainite  >£  oz.     Spring  or  autumn 


Soil  which  has  been  chosen  in  the  fall  and  stored 
away  during  the  winter  will  not  be  likely  to  contain 
fungus,  and  it  will  be  sufficiently  mellowed  to  avoid 
hurting  the  most  delicate  plants.  If  the  soil  is  too 
heavy,  it  will  be  benefited  by  having  mixed  with  it 
a  little  coal  ashes  or  fine  sand. 

If  wood  ashes  are  sprinkled  over  the  garden  just 
before  a  rain  or  just  before  watering  it,  the  soil 
will  be  uniformly  supplied  with  potash  and  will 
show  the  benefit  it  has  derived  by  vigorous  growth 
of  the  plants  in  and  near. 

When  you  are  in  doubt  just  what  fertilizer  a  plant 
needs,  experiment  with  just  a  small  portion  at  a 
time.  If  the  fertilizer  you  first  decide  upon  seems 
to  invigorate  the  plant,  then  add  more  a  few  days 
later.  If  it  has  no  effect,  or  if  it  has  a  bad  effect, 
use  a  contrasting  fertilizer. 


Soil  and  Fertilization  107 

Where  there  is  too  much  sand  the  ground  is  not 
very  fertile,  but  sand  insures  drainage  and  its 
presence  also  induces  early  planting,  as  sandy  soil 
grows  warm  much  earlier  in  the  season  than  soil 
which  contains  little  or  no  sand. 

The  soil  is  too  wet  for  cultivation  if  it  sticks 
together  when  rolled  into  a  ball.  //  soil  is  plowed 
while  wet,  there  will  be  hard,  rough  lumps  when  it 
is  dry. 

When  planting  seed,  see  that  the  soil  is  well  pulver- 
ized beforehand.  Hard  lumps  will  be  a  _  great 
handicap  in  germination  as  it  will  be  almost 
impossible  for  tender  young  shoots  to  push  their 
way  through. 

Dried  blood  from  cattle  contains  a  large  percentage 
of  nitrogen  and  is  especially  valuable  for  those 
plants  grown  for  leaves.  Nitrogen  produces  large 
leaves  and  beautiful  deep  coloring. 

Rotting  sawdust  breeds  worms  and  certain  kinds  of 
insects  which  are  harmful  to  plant  life.  Clean  up 
the  garden ! 

Vegetation  which  is  badly  infested  by  bugs  should 
have  applied  to  it  water  to  which  has  been  added  a 
little  household  ammonia.  Ammonia  both  fertilizes 


io8  Soil  and  Fertilization 

the  soil  and  kills  the  bugs.  Water  which  has  been 
used  for  washing  clothes  or  dishes  will  answer  the 
purpose  just  as  well  as  fresh  water. 

To  prepare  compost,  secure  fresh  manure,  either 
fresh  or  partly  rotted.  Pile  it  up  in  a  pile  about 
three  or  four  feet  all  dimensions,  moisten  thor- 
oughly, and  let  stand  a  week.  Turn  it  over  and 
moisten  again.  Repeat  several  times  until  it 
seems  thoroughly  rotted.  This  is  a  natural 
fertilizer  and  there  is  nothing  better  for  certain 
vegetables.  All  artificial  fertilizers  try  to  imitate 
the  qualities  of  compost  in  a  concentrated  form. 

Composted  manure  should  be  spread  on  the  soil 
to  a  depth  of  two  or  three  inches  and  thoroughly 
worked  in.  The  amount  used  must  be  determined 
by  the  nature  of  the  plants  to  be  grown 

Be  careful  to  remove  all  sticks,  trash  and  stone 
from  manure  before  putting  it  on  the  garden.  This 
foreign  material  will  not  fertilize  and  will  only 
retard  the  growth  of  the  roots  and  young  plants. 

Commercial  fertilizers  are  usually  very  strongly 
condensed  and  should  not  be  put  on  the  soil  too 
heavily.  As  a  rule,  they  should  not  be  put  on  the 
roots,  but  should  be  placed  in  the  ground  several 


Soil  and  Fertilization  109 

inches  from  the  plant,  if  it  is  a  small  plant,  and  a 
foot  or  two  away,  if  it  is  a  plant  having  spreading 
roots.  The  roots  will  reach  out  for  their  food, 
and  if  put  too  close  to  the  plant,  the  plant  may 
become  burned  and  the  roots  will  not  be  fed.  The 
manufacturers  of  most  reliable  fertilizers  give 
accurate  instructions  as  to  use. 

Different  kinds  of  vegetation  require  different 
fertilization.  Sheep  manure  is  best  for  some  plants, 
compost  for  others,  barnyard  fertilizer  for  others, 
etc.  Find  out  just  what  fertilizer  your  particular 
plants  need. 

The  value  of  compost  can  be  added  to  by  sprin- 
kling finely  ground  raw  phosphatic  rock  over  the 
pile  each  time  it  is  turned  over.  This  helps  to 
hold  the  ammonia  and  strengthens  the  fertilization. 

A  good  fertilizer  will  analyze  about  3%  nitrogen, 
8%  available  phosphoric  acid,  and  8%  potash,  and 
should  be  used  at  the  rate  of  eight  pounds  to  the 
square  rod.  This  should  be  applied  just  previous 
to  planting  and  should  be  thoroughly  worked  into 
the  soil  for  a  depth  of  three  or  four  inches. 

Soil  that  is  used  every  year  should  be  occasion- 
ally limed.  Either  air-slaked  or  water-slaked 
lime  should  be  applied  at  the  rate  of  about  2000 


no  Soil  and  Fertilization 

pounds  to  the  acre.  It  should  be  put  on  after  plow- 
ing or  deep  harrowing,  and  should  be  harrowed 
into  the  surface  three  or  four  inches. 

The  more  you  hoe  the  less  you  will  have  to  pay 
out  for  fertilizer. 

In  November  manure  and  ploiv  the  garden  and 
leave  it  in  a  rough  state.  It  will  dry  ^  out  quickly 
and  will  be  in  excellent  condition  for  working  and 
planting  in  the  springtime. 

Good  well-rotted  barnyard  manure  has  no  supe- 
rior for  garden  crops.  Manure  from  fowls  is  especi- 
ally adapted  for  dropping  in  the  hills  or  rows  of 
plants. 

On  a  large  tract,  ten  cords  of  compost  to  the  acre 
is  not  too  much. 

Nitrate  of  soda  is  a  strong  quick-acting  fertilizer, 
but  it  must  be  used  with  care.  Too  much  applied 
around  a  plant  at  one  time  will  injure  and  some- 
times kill.  A  teaspoonful  is  a  sufficient  dose  for  a 
cabbage,  pepper  plant,  or  eggplant. 

Lime  aids  nitrification  and  liberates  plant  food 
from  insoluble  forms  of  combination.  Heavy 
clays,  rich  in  insoluble  forms  of  potash  and  soils 


Soil  and  Fertilization  in 

containing  large  quantities  of  humus  are  benefited 
by  the  use  of  lime. 

Sulphate  of  ammonia  and  dried  blood  from  cattle 
(dried  at  the  abattoirs)  are  most  important  purely 
nitrogenous  fertilizers. 

Sulphate  of  potash  and  muriate  of  potash  are 
splendid  potash  fertilizers  and  immediately  avail- 
able as  plant  food. 

Wood  ashes  contain  soluble  potash  and  it  is  in 
good  form  of  combination.  Placed  at  the  roots 
of  large  plants,  they  invigorate  them  wonderfully. 
They  can  be  put  on  at  any  time  with  equal  advan- 
tage. 

Nitrogen  is  the  fertilizer  that  promotes  growth 
and  gives  color  and  size  to  the  foliage.  Phosphates 
promote  both  flowering  and  fruitfulness;  examine 
your  packages  of  commercial  fertilizer  and  know 
what  you  are  giving  your  plants  as  food. 

Crushed  bone  is  a  phosphate.  Basic  slag  answers 
the  purpose  of  bone,  and  either  may  be  used  two 
ounces  to  the  square  yard  in  the  autumn,  dug  or 
surface  dressed.  Four  ounces  of  basic  slag  will 
not  be  too  large  a  proportion.  . 


H2  Soil  and  Fertilization 

A  combination  of  nitrogen,  phosphate,  and  potash 
fertilizers  may  be  thoroughly  mixed  and  applied  at 
one  time.  In  this  case  they  should  be  all  thoroughly 
worked  into  the  soil  for  from  two  to  four  inches. 

Sour  soils  are  neutralized  by  the  action  of  lime. 
Where  moss  and  sour  grass  grow,  the  soil  is  almost 
certain  to  be  sour,  requiring  a  liberal  application 
of  lime. 

Before  purchasing  lime  in  large  quantities  a 
sample  should  be  sent  to  the  State  Agricultural 
station  for  analysis,  or  it  is  likely  that  a  great  waste 
of  both  time  and  money  may  ensue.  (A  list  of  the 
stations  is  given  elsewhere  in  this  book.) 

The  most  important  phosphate  fertilizers  are 
the  ground-rock  phosphates  and  the  super- 
phosphates made  from  them. 

Lime  or  coal  ashes  will  help  to  hold  sandy  soil 
together  and  thus  conserve  moisture  and  retain 
plant  food. 

Lime  will  make  clay  soil  more  porous.  Coal  ash 
is  not  a  food  as  is  wood  ash. 

If  you  use  a  larger  quantity  of  a  commercial 
fertilizer  than  is  recommended  in  the  directions  on 


Soft  and  Fertflization  113 

the  package,  you  are  endangering  the  plant's  life. 
The  manufacturers  will  usually  recommend  all  it  is 
safe  for  you  to  use.  They  want  to  sell  their  fertili- 
zer. 

An  ounce  of  guano  mixed  in  five  or  six  quarts  of 
water  makes  an  excellent  liquid  fertilizer  for  growing 
plants. 

Do  not  apply  nitrate  of  soda  directly  to  the  roots  or 
foliage  of  a  plant.  It  is  a  very  strong  fertilizer  and 
will  burn  the  tender  plants.  Buried  in  the  soil 
near  the  roots  is  the  method  of  application. 

Old  vegetation  such  as  cabbage  plants,  cauli- 
flower, leaves  of  beets,  etc.,  should  be  buried  or 
piled  up  with  earth  thrown  over  it  to  make  humus. 
The  soil  needs  an  application  of  humus  at  least 
once  a  year  when  the  ground  is  in  constant  use. 

Lime  is  excellent  for  mixing  with  clay  soil  to  make 
it  more  friable.  It  should  be  mixed  with  the  clay 
and  left  to  stand  for  several  weeks  before  fertilizers 
are  added. 

Phosphatic  rock  sprinkled  over  manure  when 
preparing  compost  will  strengthen  the  fertilizer  and 
cause  the  manure  to  rot  quickly  as  well.  The  com- 
post should  be  turned  over  every  two  or  three 


H4  Soil  and  Fertilization 

days  and  the  phosphatic  rock  applied  each  time  it 
is  turned.  This  process  should  be  repeated  for 
several  weeks. 

Greasy  water  in  which  dishes  have  been  washed  is 
very  beneficial  for  the  garden.  If  the  kitchen  garden 
is  close  to  the  kitchen  the  chances  are  that  the  vege- 
tation will  grow  and  flourish  luxuriantly. 

Fertilizer  from  the  chicken  house  should  always  be 
well  worked  into  the  soil.  Properly  applied  it  is  one 
of  the  best  fertilizers  known  to  gardening.  There 
is  not  danger  of  burning  the  plants  by  its  use  as 
there  is  in  using  fresh  manure  from  the  stable. 

Sheep  manure  is  excellent  as  a  fertilizer.  If  it  is 
applied  in  the  fall  and  worked  into  the  soil  to  a 
depth  of  several  inches,  the  ground  will  be  in  splen- 
did condition  for  spring  planting. 

Any  manure  applied  to  a  growing  plant  should 
be  buried  at  a  slight  distance  from  the  main  stem 
but  not  so  far  that  the  roots  cannot  reach  out  to  it. 

A  good  liguid  fertilizer  for  small  plants  is  composed 
of  two  ounces  of  ammonium  chloride  dissolved 
in  two  quarts  of  water,  to  which  should  be  added 
four  ounces  of  sodium  nitrate  and  four  ounces 
of  sodium  phosphate.  This  should  be  carefully 


Soil  and  Fertilization  115 

strained  through  a  fairly  thick  cloth  before  using. 
Half  a  teaspoonful  to  a  pint  of  water  is  enough  for 
the  average  plant. 

When  wood  ashes  are  used  in  the  garden,  they 
should  be  sifted  in  order  to  remove  all  the  lumps 
and  cinders  which  will  be  detrimental  to  young, 
tender  roots. 

Manure  tempers  the  soil  and  provides  warmth 
when  used  as  a  winter  covering  for  plants. 

Old  shavings  or  sawdust  are  not  advised  as  bed- 
ding as  the  tendency  will  be  to  produce  sourness 
in  the  soil  and  this  will  have  a  bad  effect  on  the 
vegetables.  Clean  soil  is  essential  for  good  growth. 

Manure  will  help  to  hold  the  soil  to  the  roots 
of  plants  and  half  an  inch  in  the  bottom  of  flats 
before  filling  them  with  soil  will  yield  very  satis- 
factory results. 

After  plowing  the  next  important  step  is  to 
smooth  and  pulverize  the  soil.  If  it  is  well  pre- 
pared, the  work  of  caring  for  vegetables  will  be 
materially  lessened.  The  pulverizing  should  ex- 
tend to  a  depth  of  three  or  four  inches . 

Sandy  soils  will  bear  plowing  much  earlier  than 
heavy  clay  soils.  If  the  soil  sticks  together  to 


n6  Soil  and  Fertilization 

form  a  ball  when  squeezed  in  the  hand  it  is  too  wet 
for  working,  and  soil  should  never  be  worked  when 
wet  unless  you  would  have  rough  lumps  afterward. 

Where  soil  is  difficult  to  drain,  it  is  an  advantage 
to  set  plants  on  ridges;  cabbage,  cauliflower,  and 
similar  crops  can  be  grown  to  advantage  in  this 
way  in  many  localities,  while  a  raised  bed  of  six  to 
twelve  inches  in  width  will  prove  advantageous  in 
beets,  radishes,  onions,  etc. 

Heavy  clay  soils  should  have  a  good  drainage 
and  sandy  soils  having  a  clay  foundation  are 
greatly  improved  by  having  all  excess  moisture 
drained  off  quickly. 

The  soil  for  general  vegetable  growing,  i.  e.,  where 
vegetables  which  properly  call  for  different  fertili- 
zers are  grown  is  a  rich,  friable  well-drained  loam. 
One  containing  some  sand  is  desirable,  since  such 
soils  warm  up  earlier  in  the  spring. 


THE  HOTBED  AND  COLD-FRAME 

A  HOTBED  is  a  most  desirable  acquisition  to  the 
garden  in  any  locality.  In  a  warm  climate  it 
enables  the  gardener  to  start  his  young  plants 
during  the  winter  months,  and  thus  gives  him  a 
very  long  gardening  season,  while  in  a  section  of 
the  country  where  the  summers  are  short,  it  is  a 
necessity  if  one  would  make  it  worth  while  having 
a  garden  at  all.  When  it  is  desired  to  keep  the 
plants  from  fall  until  spring,  it  can  be  best  done 
in  a  greenhouse,  but  failing  to  have  a  greenhouse, 
a  hotbed  will  do  very  well.  By  the  use  of  a  hotbed, 
plants  can  be  hardened  gradually  to  stand  cooler 
weather  and  thus  be  saved  from  the  blight  of  a 
sudden  and  severe  frost.  It  is  not  unusual  for  the 
gardener  who  sows  in  the  open  ground  to  lose  his 
entire  first  crop  of  seedlings. 

In  transplanting  from  the  hotbed,  only  a  certain 
number  of  the  plants  should  be  set  out  at  one  time, 
and  these  should  be  watched  and  tended  to  make 
sure  they  are  not  going  to  be  killed  by  cold  before 

117 


n8        The  Hotbed  and  Cold-Frame 

the  remaining  plants  which  have  been  left  in  the 
hotbed  are  thrown  away,  or,  let  us  hope,  given  to 
a  friend. 

The  location  of  the  hotbed  is  most  important. 
It  should  always  be  in  a  warm,  sunny  spot,  well 
protected  from  the  cold  north  and  east  winds, 
and,  if  possible,  it  should  be  near  some  sort  of 
water  supply  to  make  sure  that  enough  water  will 
be  provided.  In  making  the  hotbed,  allow  plenty 
of  room  for  the  plants  to  grow  to  a  good  size  before 
transplanting.  While  plants  should  not  attain  too 
much  growth,  they  should  be  strong  and  sturdy 
before  taken  from  their  first  home.  But  in  allow- 
ing for  growth,  do  not  go  to  the  other  extreme  and 
make  the  cover  too  high,  or  there  may  be  too  much 
cold  air  stored  away  in  the  frame,  and  the  sun's 
rays  will  not  strike  with  the  necessary  force  the 
young  plants  so  much  in  need  of  warmth.  The 
heat  from  the  bottom  of  the  hotbed,  supplied  by 
the  manure  foundation,  is  not  the  only  heat  re- 
quired for  the  life  and  growth  of  the  plants. 

In  supplying  the  manure  for  the  hotbed,  see  that 
it  does  not  contain  too  much  straw  or  other  refuse, 
otherwise  the  ground  will  grow  cold  quickly. 
Hotbeds  may  be  heated  artificially  by  means  of 
pipes  running  from  the  heater  in  the  greenhouse 
or  from  the  dwelling  house,  but  in  using  artificial 


The  Hotbed  and  Cold-Frame        119 

heat  there  is  danger  of  keeping  the  hotbed  too  hot, 
and  thus  making  the  young  plants  tender.  In  the 
case  of  artificial  heat,  a  thermometer  always  should 
be  kept  in  the  hotbed,  and  when  the  air  is  too 
warm,  the  heat  should  be  turned  off,  or  if  the  day 
is  pleasant,  the  air  may  be  cooled  by  ventilating. 

Don't  forget  the  hotbed  on  a  cool  night.  If  you 
do,  you  are  likely  to  lose  your  crop,  and  it  takes 
time  to  start  another.  If  the  night  is  unusually 
cold  after  having  had  some  rather  mild  weather, 
cover  the  hotbed  with  a  heavy  canvas,  with  boards, 
or  with  a  layer  of  straw  or  manure.  An  old 
blanket  will  serve  as  well  as  anything  else,  and  if 
nothing  else  is  convenient,  a  layer  of  earth  will 
answer,  though  there  is  more  labor  attached  to 
applying  this  covering.  There  can  be  purchased 
at  any  large  seed  house  a  mat  of  straw  or  burlap 
for  protecting  the  hotbed.  When  the  hotbed  is 
artificially  heated  do  not  make  the  mistake  of 
turning  on  too  much  heat  at  night  instead  of  using 
covering.  If  the  plants  are  kept  unusually  warm 
for  a  few  hours,  they  will  need  another  hardening 
before  they  are  again  exposed. 

A  cold-frame  differs  from  a  hotbed  in  that  it  is 
not  supplied  with  heat.  The  cold-frame,  as  well 
as  the  hotbed,  should  be  carefully  located,  and  all 
protection  possible  given  it  from  cold  winds.  In 


120        The  Hotbed  and  Cold-Frame 

very  cold  climates,  the  cold-frame  usually  receives 
the  young  plants  from  the  hotbed  for  the  purpose 
of  hardening  them  before  transplanting  to  the  out- 
of-doors.  A  cold-frame  which  has  a  high  roof 
is  much  to  be  preferred  to  the  cold-frame  where  the 
glass  is  close  to  the  surface  of  the  earth,  as  ventila- 
tion will  be  better  and  the  temperature  will  be 
more  even.  For  forcing  vegetables,  there  is  no 
better  medium  than  the  cold-frame,  though  it  must 
be  remembered  that  forced  vegetables  are  never 
as  palatable  as  those  which  grow  naturally,  and 
often  they  are  lacking  in  the  proper  food  strength 
which  they  should  have,  even  if  they  are  not  made 
positively  unhealthy  from  having  been  forced 
with  chemical  fertilizer.  Forcing  is  a  universal 
practice,  but  it  is  not  to  be  recommended. 

When  there  have  been  several  days  of  cool,  damp 
weather,  and  the  sun  then  comes  out  bright  and 
strong,  there  is  great  danger  of  the  hotbed  and 
cold-frame  plants  becoming  scalded  or  of  being 
withered  from  lack  of  moisture.  Sudden  changes 
in  climate  require  very  careful  manipulation  of 
the  hotbed  and  cold-frame,  and  nothing  is  so  bene- 
ficial as  experience.  So  many  things  govern  the 
success  of  a  hotbed  and  cold-frame,  and  conditions 
vary  so,  that  it  is  impossible  to  give  any  certain 
rules  for  their  general  care. 


The  Hotbed  and  Cold-Frame        121 

Be  careful  when  watering  the  hotbed  and  cold- 
frame.  They  should  never  be  soaked,  but  should 
be  watered  thoroughly.  A  very  fine  spray  should 
be  used  that  the  water  may  be  applied  without 
much  force,  as  to  dash  the  water  on  will  result  not 
only  in  washing  up  seeds  or  seedlings  but  will  re- 
sult in  packing  the  soil  down,  thus  making  it  hard 
when  it  is  dry. 

Ventilation  for  young  plants  should  be  given 
gradually,  and  it  should  first  be  given  on  a  mild, 
sunny  day.  Half  an  inch  for  an  hour  will  be 
enough  air  for  the  first  couple  of  days,  and  later 
this  aperture  may  be  increased  to  an  inch,  two 
inches,  three  inches,  etc.,  also  increasing  the  length 
of  time  until  it  is  left  wide  open  all  day.  It  should 
always  be  closed  at  night  until  the  plants  are 
almost  ready  to  be  set  in  the  open  ground,  and  then 
it  should  be  left  open  to  give  them  the  same  ex- 
posure that  they  will  later  receive.  If  this  care 
is  exercised  not  even  the  most  tender  plants  will 
suffer  from  transporting. 

To  make  a  hotbed".  After  determining  the  size 
of  the  hotbed,  earth  should  be  removed  from  the 
chosen  location  and  boards  set  in  the  ground  in 
the  form  of  a  box  with  the  bottom  out.  (In  fact, 
if  a  large  box  can  be  procured  and  buried,  much 
labor  will  be  spared.)  The  back  of  the  hotbed 


122        The  Hotbed  and  Cold-Frame 

boards  should  be  about  a  foot  higher  than  those 
at  the  front,  and  the  sides  should  slope  accordingly. 
This  gives  a  slant  and  the  water  will  run  off  quickly. 
Manure  should  be  thrown  into  the  hotbed  pit  in 
layers,  each  layer  being  tramped  down  before  the 
next  is  added.  This  should  be  continued  until  the 
pit  is  filled  to  within  six  inches  of  the  top.  Place 
a  glass  over  the  hotbed  and  leave  it  alone  for  two 
or  three  weeks.  Keep  a  thermometer  inside  and 
when  the  temperature  has  risen  to  120  degrees 
Fahrenheit  and  then  dropped  to  ninety  degrees, 
place  four  or  five  inches  of  soil  on  top  of  the  man- 
ure. It  will  be  better  to  have  just  a  little  manure 
mixed  with  this  soil,  but  this  manure  should  be 
well  rotted.  The  soil  is  then  ready  for  seed  to  be 
planted. 

Double  sash  is  recommended  for  a  hotbed  in  the 
coldest  weather,  but  straw  mats  laid  over  the  sash 
at  night  will  serve  very  well. 

Hotbeds  for  growing  lettuce,  radishes,  parsely,  and 
other  vegetables  of  a  like  nature  may  be  pre- 
pared in  the  following  manner: 

Prepare  beds  in  the  usual  way.  If  you  have  not 
old  sash  of  proper  size,  make  light  wooden  frames 
and  nail  projecting  strips  upon  all  four  sides  to  be 
fitted  over  the  hotbed  frame  in  the  order  of  a 


The  Hotbed  and  Cold-Frame        123 

box  lid.  Then  nail  a  few  narrow  slats  across  for 
support.  Over  this  tack  new  unbleached  muslin. 
Use  plenty  of  tacks  and  stretch  the  muslin  as 
tightly  as  possible.  Then  apply  a  coat  of  melted 
paraffin  to  the  entire  surface.  Parafine  can  be 
kept  in  a  liquid  state  as  long  as  the  receptacle 
containing  it  stands  in  a  kettle  of  hot  water.  The 
brush  used  for  the  purpose  must  be  dipped  in 
boiling  water  before  the  work  begins.  When 
there  is  the  prospect  of  a  snowstorm,  an  armful  of 
straw  thrown  over  the  sash  will  prevent  the  mus- 
lin from  sagging.  These  frames  are  cheap  and 
can  be  stored  away  in  summer  for  the  next  year's 
use. 

Hotbeds  should  be  uncovered  during  the  day  in 
April,  provided  the  weather  is  the  usual  April 
weather,  so  the  plants  may  become  accustomed  to 
outdoor  life.  They  should  be  covered  at  night, 
however,  as  at  this  season  a  sudden  drop  in  the 
temperature  is  likely  to  occur  any  night. 

Hotbeds  should  be  watered  on  bright  days  and 
only  in  the  morning.  Watering  at  night  may  cause 
the  plants  to  take  cold. 

The  hotbeds  should  have  ventilation  on  bright  days 
as  soon  as  the  weather  moderates,  and  by  raising 


124        The  Hotbed  and  Cold-Frame 

the  side  opposite  from  the  wind  there  will  not  be 
danger  of  creating  a  draft. 

Hotbeds  are  not  expensive  luxuries  as  the  home 
gardener  often  thinks.  One  large  enough  to  hold 
nearly  a  thousand  young  plants  at  one  time  need 
cost  only  fifteen  dollars.  Small  hotbeds  and 
several  of  them,  however,  are  more  satisfactory 
than  one  large  one.  Small  ones  are  easier  to 
handle  and  plants  of  different  ages  may  be  venti- 
lated in  safety  if  they  are  kept  to  themselves. 

Plants  grown  in  a  hothouse,  hotbed,  or  cold-frame 
will  require  hardening  before  planting  in  the  garden. 
This  should  be  begun  by  ventilation  and  by  reduc- 
ing the  amount  of  water  applied  to  the  plant  bed, 
though  the  plants  should  not  become  so  dry  that 
the  plants  will  wilt  or  have  their  growth  checked 
seriously.  After  a  few  days,  the  plants  should  be 
left  uncovered  during  a  mild  day  and  on  mild 
nights. 

In  the  North  the  hotbed  should  be  started  in  Febru- 
ary or  early  in  March,  in  order  that  such  plants  as 
the  tomato  and  early  cabbage  may  get  a  good  start 
by  the  time  the  open  ground  is  ready  for  them. 

The  hotbed  should  always  face  the  south,  and  the 
south  side  of  a  dwelling,  tight-board  fence,  or  a 


The  Hotbed  and  Cold-Frame        125 

hedge  will  afford  protection  and  prove  a  good 
location. 

When  purchasing  glass  for  the  cold-frame  or  hot- 
bed, select  glass  that  has  not  been  glazed  and  the 
cost  will  be  materially  reduced.  Clear,  glazed 
glass  is  prettier,  certainly,  but  it  has  no  other 
advantage  over  unglazed  glass. 

Whitewash  the  inside  of  flats,  hotbeds,  and  wooden 
boxes  in  which  plants  are  to  grow  and  there  will  not 
be  so  much  danger  from  insects  eating  the  plants 
as  they  come  up.  This  will  also  tend  to  keep  the 
box  from  rotting  so  soon. 

Plants  usually  dry  most  rapidly  in  the  north 
side  of  the  hotbed  as  the  condensed  moisture  will 
run  to  the  south  side  and  drop  off  into  the  ground. 
Remember  this  when  watering  the  plants  in  the 
hotbed. 

Keep  the  soil  in  flats,  the  hotbed,  and  boxes  an  inch 
or  more  below  the  edge.  This  will  give  the  water  a 
chance  to  stand  long  enough  to  sink  into  the 
surface. 

An  inch  of  manure  placed  over  the  hotbed  on  a  very 
cold  night  will  provide  warmth  and  prevent  the  young 
plants  from  freezing.  This  is  an  excellent  substi- 


126        The  Hotbed  and  Cold-Frame 

tute  for  double  sash,  which  are  not  needed,  as  a  rule, 
very  many  nights  during  the  winter  except  in 
extremely  severe  climates. 

If  a  flat  sets  in  a  metal  receptacle  which  is  an 
inch  or  two  too  large,  water  may  be  poured  into  the 
receptacle  and  thus  allowed  to  soak  into  the  earth 
in  the  flat  without  danger  of  washing  up  young 
plants  or  tiny  seed. 

When  the  sun's  rays  are  too  strong  for  the  plants  in 
the  hotbed,  place  a  covering  of  straw  or  leaves  over 
the  glass.  This  will  afford  the  necessary  shade 
without  cutting  off  all  the  warmth.  A  piece  of 
thin  green  cloth  will  answer  the  purpose  well  if 
leaves  are  not  available. 

The  durable  hotbed  is  the  hotbed  made  of  concrete. 
It  costs  more  to  build  but  if  the  location  selected  is 
to  remain  the  permanent  site  for  the  hotbed,  it  is 
far  wiser  to  build  of  concrete  than  of  wood. 


SEED, 

THE  first  essential  of  seed  is  freshness.  Some 
seed  will  retain  life  for  two  or  more  years,  but  the 
majority  of  seed  are  best  planted  if  not  more  than 
one  year  old.  As  to  the  age  we  must  rely  upon  the 
seedsmen,  so  be  sure  that  the  reputation  of  the 
dealer  is  good.  Seed  sold  in  extraordinarily  cheap 
packages  are  nearly  always  poor  seed  and  are 
simply  discarded  by  good  seedsmen,  purchased 
by  the  conscienceless  dealers,  and  put  up  in  new 
papers  to  prove  a  disappointment  to  the  gardener. 
Seed  can  be  tested  by  throwing  them  on  a  hot  coal 
or  by  placing  them  in  a  pail  of  water.  If  they 
burn  with  a  crackle,  they  are  likely  to  be  a  good 
lot  of  seed,  and  if  they  sink  to  the  bottom  of  the 
pail,  they  can  be  depended  upon  usually  to  germi- 
nate. It  is  dangerous  for  an  amateur  to  depend 
upon  seed  of  his  own  saving,  for  much  skill  and 
experience  is  required  to  save  good  seed  and  an 
amateur  may  lose  a  great  deal  of  valuable  time 
waiting  for  the  seeds  which  never  germinate.  It 

127 


128  Seed 

is  safe  to  plant  a  few  of  the  amateur's  seeds  but 
not  to  depend  upon  them  for  a  crop. 

When  the  seedsmen  gather  their  seed  only  half 
the  work  is  done,  for  storage  is  as  important  as 
production.  Above  all,  the  seed  should  be  kept  in 
a  cool,  dry  place  until  it  is  time  for  sowing,  as  to 
store  them  in  a  warm  place,  more  or  less  damp, 
will  result  in  their  germination  before  the  allotted 
time. 

While  seed  should  be  kept  fairly  moist  and  rather 
warm  after  planting,  there  is  danger  of  keeping 
them  too  moist  and  thus  causing  them  to  rot,  or 
the  young  seedling  to  "damp  off."  Both  mois- 
ture and  warmth  should  be  uniform.  If  the  seed 
are  kept  fairly  warm  for  a  few  days,  then  allowed 
to  become  chilled,  the  germination  will  be  checked, 
while  alternate  sogginess  and  dryness  will  result 
in  killing  the  life  that  is  in  the  seed. 

Botany  will  have  an  added  interest  for  the 
gardener  who  is  raising  his  own  seed,  and  in  order 
to  appreciate  plant  growth  a  little  knowledge  must 
be  had  with  regard  to  pollination.  Pollen  lodges 
on  the  stigmatic  part  of  the  pistil  where  it  germi- 
nates, sending  out  tubes  whereby  the  male  genera- 
tive cell  passes  to  the  ovule,  fusing  with  the  egg 
cell,  from  which  the  seed  develops. 

When  plants  are  started  from  seed,  two  things 


Seed  129 

to  remember  are  that  the  soil  should  be  well  pul- 
verized by  being  sifted,  and  the  seed  should  be 
sown  according  to  the  required  depth  for  each 
variety  of  seed.  A  good  depth  for  one  kind  of 
seed  is  disastrous  for  another  variety.  Too, 
whether  seed  should  be  sown  in  trenches  or  broad- 
cast is  also  to  be  determined.  In  most  instances 
rows  are  advisable  as  making  cultivation  easier, 
and,  in  cases  where  plants  must  be  staked,  or  pods 
picked,  rows  are  almost  necessary. 

In  all  cases  seed  should  have  a  firm  soil.  Where 
the  soil  is  too  loose,  fine  seed  will  be  blown  by  the 
winds,  and  large  seed  will  not  have  a  good  hold 
for  root  growth.  But  whatever  you  do,  purchase 
plenty  of  seed.  Seed  is  inexpensive,  and  if  one 
crop  does  not  mature,  or  if  a  cold  wave  settles  the 
fate  of  the  young  seedlings  as  soon  as  they  appear 
above  ground,  no  time  should  be  lost  in  planting  a 
second  time. 

With  seed  that  germinate  slowly  it  is  best  to 
plant  them  very  thick,  that  there  may  be  force  in 
breaking  the  soil.  Which  seed  should  be  started 
in  seedbed  or  in  paper  cups  depends  entirely  upon 
the  nature  of  the  seed. 

In  saving  seed,  certain  plants  should  be  set 
aside  for  seeding,  and  they  should  always  be  some 


130  Seed 

of  the  very  best  plants.  Weak  plants  will  produce 
poor  seed.  These  plants  should  not  be  allowed 
to  bear  too  prolifically,  but  should  be  carefully 
tended  and  all  superfluous  blossoms  removed. 

In  purchasing  seeds,  the  best  should  always  be 
purchased  regardless  of  price,  and  seeds  should  be 
purchased  only  from  reliable  seedsmen.  There 
are  firms  who  have  built  up  long-standing  reputa- 
tions on  their  seeds  and  they  are  the  ones  who 
should  be  patronized. 

Seeds  should  be  of  the  previous  season's  growth. 
There  are  a  few  kinds  of  seeds  that  will  keep  well 
for  more  than  one  season  but  most  plants  should 
be  started  from  the  freshest  of  seeds. 

In  planting  seeds  in  large  tracts,  practically  all 
can  be  planted  with  the  seed  drill  in  a  really  better 
manner  than  by  hand,  and  a  saving  in  labor  will 
be  accomplished  as  well. 

Seeds  should  always  be  sown  in  straight  rows 
regardless  of  where  the  planting  is  made.  The 
seedlings  will  be  more  uniform  in  size  and  shape 
if  this  is  done,  and  thinning  can  be  more  easily 
accomplished. 

When  the  soil  of  the  seed  bed  is  not  too  wet  it  should 
be  pressed  down  firmly  before  laying  it  off  in  rows. 


Seed  131 

After  the  seeds  are  sown  it  should  be  again  pressed 
down  by  means  of  a  smooth  board. 

No  rule  can  be  given  for  the  depth  to  which  seeds 
should  be  planted.  The  depth  varies  with  the  kind 
of  seed  and  with  the  character  and  condition  of  the 
soil.  Heavy  clay  and  moist  soils  call  for  lighter 
covering  than  sandy  or  dry  soils,  and  small  seeds 
should  not  be  planted  to  as  great  depth  as  larger 
ones.  Two  to  three  times  the  size  of  the  seed  is 
the  general  practice. 

A  thin  lath  will  be  most  useful  in  making  grooves 
for  seeds  when  planting  in  boxes  or  a  small  bed. 

The  supply  of  seed  should  be  procured  in  advance 
of  the  time  they  are  to  be  planted  in  order  to  have 
them  ready  at  the  most  appropriate  time. 

The  simplest  method  of  starting  seeds  early  is  to 
plant  them  in  a  box  placed  in  a  south  window. 
After  the  plants  appear,  the  box  should  be  turned 
each  day  to  prevent  the  plants  drawing  toward  the 
light. 

In  sowing  seed  late  in  the  season,  they  can  usually 
be  sown  to  advantage  slightly  deeper  than  earlier 
in  the  year  because  the  ground  is  warm  to  a  greater 
depth. 


132  Seed 

Lettuce  seeds  should  be  scattered  over  the  surface 
of  the  soil  and  a  little  fine  earth  sprinkled  lightly 
over  them. 

Remember  that  seeds  need  air,  therefore  should 
not  be  planted  too  deep;  they  need  moisture  in 
order  to  swell  and  sprout;  they  need  warmth  or 
they  will  freeze. 

Seeds  should  be  well  watered  as  soon  as  sown,  by 
means  of  a  hose  and  fine  nozzle,  or  an  extremely 
fine-holed  watering  can,  for  the  garden,  and  the  use 
of  a  bulb  syringe  spray  for  the  boxes. 

When  growing  vegetables  for  producing  seeds, 
every  flower  and  fruit  and  pod  should  be  watched 
closely.  One  poor  seed  may  be  the  means  of  start- 
ing a  crop  of  poor  vegetables.  Only  a  few  pods 
or  fruit  should  be  allowed  to  mature  on  each  plant 
or  vine.  All  the  poorer  ones  should  be  picked  off 
at  an  early  stage. 

When  seed  boxes  are  started  indoors  near  a  window, 
the  box  should  be  turned  around  every  day  to  give 
every  seed  a  fair  chance  at  warmth  and  light. 

When  planting  a  large  quantity  of  seed,  be  sure 
to  use  a  seed  drill.  The  seed  will  be  sown  more 
uniformly  and  the  back  will  be  saved  many  aches. 


Seed  133 

For  successful  germination  of  seed,  the  air  temper- 
ature should  be  about  60  degrees  Fahrenheit  and 
the  soil  temperature  from  65  degrees  to  70 
degrees. 

Seed  obtained  from  plants  which  were  planted 
before  the  ground  was  thoroughly  warmed  in  the 
spring  will  produce  sickly,  puny  plants. 

To  have  the  seed  garden  well  prepared  will 
influence  the  garden  very  much  indeed.  A  poorly 
prepared  seed  bed  means  a  failure  from  the  begin- 
ning. The  soil  should  be  pulverized  by  cultivating 
with  a  fork,  if  a  small  garden,  or  by  spading  and 
plowing  if  a  large  tract  is  under  cultivation. 

In  order  to  have  proper  drainage,  the  seed  bed 
should  be  a  trifle  higher  than  the  ground  around  it. 
This  can  be  easily  accomplished  by  loosening  the 
earth  and  piling  it  not  far  from  the  spaces  where 
it  came  but  on  places  that  have  not  been  used. 

Large  gardens  should  have  the  soil  thoroughly 
harrowed  and  raked  after  spading  or  plowing  and 
the  soil  should  not  be  allowed  to  dry  out  after 
harrowing  it.  The  lumps  will  break  up  easily 
while  the  soil  is  still  moist.  A  seed  bed  lacking  in 
moisture  and  full  of  lumps  will  produce  a  poor 
crop. 


134  Seed 

The  most  thorough  way  of  harrowing  is  to 
harrow  in  straight  rows  and  then  the  second  time 
at  right  angles  to  the  first  rows.  Harrowing  five 
or  six  times  will  not  be  too  much.  The  finer  the 
soil  the  easier  for  the  plants  when  the  seeds  have 
germinated. 

All  stones  and  trash  should  be  removed  from 
the  seed  bed  and  the  smaller  the  seed,  the  finer  the 
soil  should  be.  Roots  will  not  feed  on  stones  or 
branches  that  are  not  rotted. 

Good  soil  for  the  seed  bed  consists  of  one  part 
of  well-rotted  manure,  two  parts  of  good  garden 
loam  or  rotted  seeds,  and  one  part  of  sharp,  fine 
sand.  The  manure  should  be  thoroughly  rotted 
but  it  should  not  have  been  exposed  to  the  weather 
so  long  that  the  strength  has  been  leached  out  of  it. 
All  the  ingredients  should  be  thoroughly  mixed, 
then  sifted  and  placed  in  boxes  ready  for  sowing 
the  seed. 

Leaf-mold  or  peat  is  excellent  in  preparing  soil 
for  the  seed  bed. 

To  kill  the  seeds  of  weeds  and  spores  oj  fungus 
diseases  that  are  present  in  soil  which  is  being 
prepared  for  a  seed  bed,  place  the  soil  in  pans  and 
set  in  the  oven  or  in  the  furnace  for  an  hour  or  two. 


Seed  135 

Unless  there  is  absolute  certainty  that  these  dan- 
gers are  not  present,  this  method  had  better  be 
followed,  otherwise  a  poor  lot  of  young  plants  may 
be  the  result. 

The  seed  bed  should  never  be  allowed  to  become 
dry,  but  too  much  water  should  not  be  applied. 
Too  much  moisture  will  exclude  air  and  prevent 
germination,  as  well  as  rot  the  seeds.  Some 
moisture  is  necessary,  however,  to  promote  germi- 
nation. 

Where  there  are  dry  spots  in  an  otherwise  moist 
seed  bed,  water  only  the  dry  spots,  using  a  fine 
nozzle  in  order  that  too  much  water  will  not  pour 
out  and  spread  over  the  already  damp  places. 

It  is  not  advisable  for  the  gardener  of  a  small 
plot  to  save  seeds  of  all  his  crops,  but  seeds  of 
melons,  corn,  and  other  things  which  are  so  hard 
to  judge,  and  of  which  there  are  such  a  variety  of 
poor  ones,  will  be  likely  to  pay  handsomely  for  the 
trouble. 

For  the  first  two  or  three  days  after  sowing  seed, 
they  should  be  kept  in  the  shade.  After  that 
they  may  be  placed  in  the  sunlight  when  the  rays 
of  the  sun  acting  on  the  thoroughly  moistened 
soil  will  hasten  germination. 


136  Seed 

The  time  to  water  a  garden  depends  upon  the 
conditions.  During  the  early  spring  months  the 
early  morning  hours  wuTdo  as  well  as  any  other 
time,  but  in  the  heat  of  summer,  it  should  always 
be  done  after  the  sun  has  gone  down,  in  order  that 
the  sun  will  not  come  down  at  once  and  scald  the 
plants.  At  night,  too,  more  water  soaks  into  the 
ground  and  not  so  much  is  lost  by  evaporation. 

Sprinkling  will  wash  the  dust  off  the  plants  and 
keep  them  clean,  hence  can  be  done  to  advantage 
after  a  rain  that  has  beat  dirt  upon  small  plants, 
but  for  answering  the  purpose  of  providing  mois- 
ture it  is  a  useless  proceeding. 

Small  seeds  should  be  watered  with  a  very  fine 
spray  and  when  planted  in  boxes,  a  small  bulb 
syringe  spray  should  be  used.  Even  when  the 
plants  have  come  through  the  ground  it  is  not 
difficult  to  wash  them  up,  or  to  so  loosen  the  soil 
that  the  roots  will  not  take  firm  hold. 

Flooding  is  most  beneficial  as  it  waters  the  roots 
well  and  does  not  tend  to  wash  up  plants.  This 
will  give  excellent  results  in  watering  seed  and 
small  plants.  In  order  to  flood,  there  should  be 
little  ditches  running  between  the  rows  of  plants. 


Seed  137 

Better  results  are  obtained  by  watering  thor- 
oughly every  three  or  four  days  than  by  watering 
slightly  every  day.  When  only  the  surface  of  the 
soil  is  wet,  the  soil  will  bake  and  much  damage 
will  be  done. 

Remember  that  lack  of  moisture  will  cut  the 
yield  of  any  crop,  and  that  tillage  conserves  soil 
moisture. 

In  sections  having  light  soils,  or  soils  deficient  in 
moisture,  a  very  satisfactory  plan  during  the  dry 
seasons  is  to  cover  the  soil  with  a  mulch  of  straw 
or  manure  during  the  early  part  of  the  summer, 
instead  of  cultivating. 

Seed  planted  in  the  open  ground  should  be  planted 
slightly  deeper  than  those  sown  in  boxes  indoors 
or  in  the  hotbed.  The  ground  is  more  likely  to 
become  chilled  than  the  earth  indoors. 

Different  kinds  of  seed  of  the  same  size  should  be 
planted  in  close  proximity,  as  they  will  require  the 
same  depth  of  covering  and  practically  the  same 
amount  of  moisture,  air,  and  warmth  for  germina- 
tion. 

The  skin  of  large  seed  should  be  loosened  before 
planting,  and  this  is  best  done  by  soaking  the  seed 


138  Seed  • 

overnight  in  cold  water  or  for  three  or  fours  hours 
in  lukewarm  water.-  All  seed  may  be  soaked 
for  a  short  while  without  harm  being  done,  and 
nearly  all  seed  will  germinate  more  quickly  by  go- 
ing through  this  process. 


PLANTING 

IF  the  garden  must  necessarily  be  small,  vege- 
tables in  common  use  and  those  easiest  to  grow  are 
advised.  Tomatoes,  lettuce,  beans,  beets,  carrots, 
onions,  parsley,  radishes,  and  corn,  where  the 
acreage  permits,  will  probably  yield  the  most  sat- 
isfactory products  for  the  new  gardener.  The 
gardener  old  at  the  service  will  need  no  advice 
along  this  line. 

Whether  the  planting  of  seed  or  the  setting 
out  of  young  plants  is  advisable,  depends  entirely 
upon  the  nature  of  the  particular  plant  as  well  as 
upon  how  early  in  the  season  the  planting  is  done 
and  how  much  time  the  gardener  wishes  to  spend 
on  preliminary  work.  Some  plants,  like  the 
tomato,  parsley,  lettuce,  cabbage,  eggplant,  pep- 
pers, and  rhubarb  may  readily  be  started  by  the 
seedsmen,  but  certain  other  vegetables,  such  as 
beets,  turnips,  members  of  the  melon  family,  beans, 
peas,  corn,  spinach,  and  radishes  had  best  be 
planted  where  they  are  to  grow. 

139 


140  Planting 

When  purchasing  plants,  select  good  strong  ones 
and  do  not  accept  those  that  are  wilted  or  parched. 
A  height  of  three  to  four  inches  should  be  acquired 
by  most  plants  before  they  are  transplanted,  and  it 
is  best  to  wait  another  week  or  two  in  order  to  get 
plants  of  a  safe  size  for  transplanting  than  select 
spindly  young  plants  which  have  been  rushed  by 
the  seedsmen  with  a  view  to  greater  commercial 
profit  by  being  the  first  in  the  market. 

If  the  plan  of  the  garden  is  made  some  time 
before  the  actual  planting  is  begun,  so  much  the 
better,  but  the  amateur  must  give  a  great  deal  of 
thought  to  which  vegetables  will  need  an  excess  of 
moisture  and  which  an  abundance  of  sunlight. 

Lettuce  may  be  planted  in  rows  alongside  rows 
of  taller  vegetables  which  will  shade  it  from  all  but 
the  early  morning  sun,  while  tomatoes,  onions, 
beets,  and  other  vegetables  needing  warmth  should 
be  given  the  benefit  of  a  location  which  will  receive 
the  sunlight  all  day  long. 


THINNING  AND  TRANSPLANTING 

WHEN  thinning,  do  it  lavishly.  A  few  strong 
plants  will  yield  a  far  larger  and  finer  crop  than  a 
number  of  sickly-looking  plants  which  have  been 
overcrowded  in  the  bed.  Thinning  should  be 
done  just  as  soon  as  a  determination  is  reached  as 
to  which  are  the  strongest  plants.  The  sooner  the 
permanent  plants  are  left  to  themselves  the  more 
rapidly  they  will  grow.  To  delay  thinning  in 
order  to  be  able  to  use  certain  young  plants  for 
"  greens "  is  a  mistake  and  the  result  in  the  long 
run  will  be  unsatisfactory.  Two  thinnings  will 
probably  be  better  than  one,  as  some  seedlings 
which  start  off  with  a  wonderful  growth  do  not 
live  up  to  their  promise.  And  here  is  a  very 
sufficient  reason  for  planting  plenty  of  seed. 

So  many  suggestions  with  reference  to  trans- 
planting are  given  among  the  hints  in  this  book 
that  little  remains  to  be  said  here.  One  caution, 
however,  cannot  be  given  too  frequently,  and  that 
is,  transplant  with  care. 

141 


142         Thinning  and  Transplanting 

Many  plants  are  benefited  by  transplanting. 
Find  out  which  they  are  and  plant  early  in  order 
to  get  the  best  out  of  them.  The  proper  time  for 
transplanting  depends  upon  the  climate,  the 
location,  and  the  variety  of  plant'.  As  a  rule, 
transplanting  should  be  done  when  a  plant  gets 
its  first  true  leaves.  This  usually  happens  about 
a  month  after  the  seed  is  sown. 

Before  taking  plants  up  for  transplanting,  the 
soil  should  be  thoroughly  watered  and  the  water 
allowed  to  sink  in,  that  the  soil  may  adhere  to  the 
roots.  If  they  are  not  set  into  the  soil  immediately 
they  should  be  placed  in  a  shady  place  to  prevent 
withering. 

//  the  plants  which  have  just  been  transplanted 
have  a  number  of  leaves,  the  largest  should  be 
pinched  off  as  leaves  give  out  a  great  deal  of  the 
plant's  moisture  and  the  loss  of  too  much  water 
is  injurious  to  the  plant.  Having  to  feed  only  a 
few  leaves y  the  plant  will  grow  more  vigorously. 

All  plants  should  be  watered  immediately  after 
transplanting,  and  the  soil  pressed  firmly  down 
around  them.  The  foot  is  the  best  medium  for 
this  purpose  as  the  planter  can  tell  just  what 


Thinning  and  Transplanting         143 

pressure  is  being  put  upon  the  soil  and  can  get  at 
all  parts. 

Plants  which  bear  transplanting  poorly  should  be 
started  by  planting  the  seeds  in  dirt  bands  or  small 
paper  cups.  When  the  plant  is  ready  for  trans- 
planting, a  hole  should  be  dug,  the  band  torn 
loose  carefully,  in  order  not  to  loosen  the  earth 
around  the  plant's  roots,  and  band,  or  cup,  planted 
with  the  plant.  The  paper  will  soon  disintegrate 
and  help  to  fertilize  the  plant. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  in  handling  the  roots 
of  plants  that  are  being  transplanted.  When 
handled  carefully  transplanting  benefits  the  roots 
of  most  plants,  as  they  have  new  soil  into  which 
they  can  spread,  and  transplanting  has  a  tendency 
to  increase  the  number  of  roots.  Celery  and 
other  plants  which  are  grown  for  their  tops  are 
nearly  always  benefited  by  transplanting. 

Such  garden  crops  as  melons,  cucumbers,  and 
beans  do  not  transplant  readily  from  the  seed  bed  to 
the  open  ground  and  extra  care  should  be  used  if 
they  must  be  transplanted.  As  these  plants  have 
strong  roots,  they  may  be  planted  in  thin  wooden 
berry  boxes,  with  the  bottom  knocked  loose  that  it 
may  easily  be  taken  off  just  before  transplanting. 


144         Thinning  and  Transplanting 

The  roots  will  push  down  and  around  the  box 
and  will  not  be  crowded  by  it  even  if  it  does  not 
rot  during  the  season. 

Another  method  of  transplanting  plants  which 
should  be  handled  with  extra  caution,  and  which 
do  not  court  transplanting,  is  to  plant  the  seed 
in  sod,  the  grass  roots  turned  upward.  When 
the  plants  are  ready,  sod  and  all  should  be  planted 
and  the  grass  roots  and  leaves  will  go  toward 
making  humus. 

If  plants  are  thinned  before  transplanting,  the 
sod  may  be  cut  in  squares  with  a  knife  and  quite  a 
large  piece  of  earth  transplanted  with  each  plant. 

To  cover  young  plants  which  have  just  been  trans- 
planted  with  old  tin  cans,  flower  pots,  and  other  air- 
tight covers  will  have  a  most  disastrous  effect  on  the 
plants  as  they  will  cut  off  the  air  and  thus  make  the 
plants  have  a  sickly,  spindly  growth,  if  they  live  at 
all.  A  handful  of  dried  grass  or  hay  will  be  all 
the  covering  necessary  and  plenty  of  air  will  reach 
the  plants  with  such  light  covering. 

Transplanting  should  never  be  done  when  the 
ground  is  wet,  nor  while  the  rain  is  falling.  After  a 
rain,  when  the  ground  has  dried  enough  to  crumble 


Thinning  and  Transplanting         145 

in  the  hand,  is  the  time  to  set  out  young  plants. 
The  atmosphere  will  be  clear  and  somewhat  moist 
and  there  will  be  no  danger  from  parching  heat 
very  soon. 

Large  plants  require  more  careful  handling  than 
small  plants  when  transplanting.  They  should  be 
set  a  bit  deeper  in  the  earth  than  they  were  setting 
before  transplanting,  the  roots  should  be  well 
watered  and  the  earth  pressed  down  firmly  around 
them.  It  is  best  to  use  the  foot  when  pressing  the 
earth  down,  as  to  use  the  hoe  may  result  in  bruising 
the  tender  branches  or  stem. 

When  the  soil  in  transplanting  does  not  adhere 
to  the  roots  of  a  plant,  it  is  well  to  puddle  them 
after  taking  the  plant  up.  Dig  a  hole  in  the  earth 
near  the  plant  bed,  and  into  this  put  a  thin  slime 
consisting  of  a  little  clay,  cow  manure,  and  water. 
Dip  the  roots  of  the  plants  up  and  down  in  this  mix- 
ture, thoroughly  coating  them.  This  coating  will 
prevent  the  air  from  reaching  the  rootlets  immedi- 
ately and  will  aid  in  securing  direct  contact  between 
the  roots  and  the  soil. 

The  soil  should  be  worked  over  and  put  in  good 
condition  "before  transplanting,  the  exact  location 
of  the  plants  marked,  and  everything  done  to 


10 


146         Thinning  and  Transplanting 

hasten  the  process  of  planting.  The  late  after- 
noon or  early  evening  is  the  best  time  to  trans- 
plant— after  the  heat  of  the  day  and  before  the 
atmosphere  is  chilled. 

Plants  should  be  set  a  trifle  deeper  in  the  garden 
than  they  were  in  the  plant  bed. 

A  sickly  looking  plant  is  often  benefited  by  being 
transplanted,  as  all  that  it  may  need  is  nourish- 
ment which  it  cannot  derive  from  the  old  soil. 

To  transplant  tender  plants  in  the  hot  sun  is  likely 
to  result  in  sun-scald.  The  late  afternoon  is  the 
best  time  for  transplanting.  Hothouse  plants 
should  not  be  transplanted  too  early  in  the  season. 
All  danger  of  frost  should  be  passed  before  any 
tender  vegetation  should  be  set  in  the  ground. 

Tender  plants  should  first  be  thinned  that  a  large 
clump  of  earth  may  be  removed  with  those  that 
are  being  transplanted.  Seed  planted  broadcast 
should  be  thinned  more  generously  than  those 
planted  in  rows,  or  the  plants  will  be  too  crowded 
to  get  enough  nourishment  and  spindly  growth 
will  be  the  result. 

Never  spare  thinning  in  order  to  have  more 
plants.  A  few  vigorous  plants  will  yield  a  far 


Thinning  and  Transplanting         147 

more  profitable  crop  than  a  great  many  poor  ones. 
Thinning  should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  plants 
are  large  enough  to  pull  and  before  they  begin 
to  grow  spindly  from  being  overcrowded. 

The  aim  in  thinning  is  to  remove  the  centers  of 
the  thick  bunches,  leaving  the  spaces  as  uniform  as 
possible.  As  a  rule,  the  best  plants  should  be 
allowed  to  remain  but  proper  spacing  must  not 
be  sacrificed  in  order  to  save  the  best  plants. 
Poorer  ones  will  grow  if  given  the  proper  care. 

It  is  absolutely  necessary  for  many  plants  to 
be  thinned.  Such  vegetables  as  carrots,  beets, 
salsify,  turnips,  radishes,  and  onions  cannot  grow 
and  develop  if  they  are  crowded.  Plants  like 
beans,  peas,  lettuce,  and  several  others  will  grow  but 
the  yield  will  be  materially  reduced. 

The  distance  given  plants  depends  upon  the 
plant.  Small  root  crops  like  radishes  should 
stand  about  two  inches  apart.  Beets,  carrots,  and 
other  plants  with  large  roots,  and  roots  which 
are  the  food  part  of  the  plant,  should  have  from 
four  to  six  inches  space  on  each  side.  Other  plants 
depend  upon  the  variety,  such  as  peas  and  beans. 

Study  the  plants  you  are  to  start  in  order  to 


148         Thinning  and  Transplanting 

avoid  re-planting  from  carelessness.  First  obtain 
good,  fresh  seed.  The  time  lost  by  planting 
poor  seeds  can  never  be  made  up.  The  season, 
the  weather,  and  the  soil  should  be  taken  into 
consideration,  and  if  this  were  always  done,  re- 
planting would  soon  become  an  obsolete  practice. 

Re-plant  only  where  the  seeds  do  not  come  upy 
but  do  it  just  as  soon  as  it  is  determined  that  the 
seeds  are  not  going  to  come  up.  No  time  should 
be  lost.  A  vegetable  season  is  short  at  its  best. 


CULTIVATION 

IF  you  do  not  mean  to  cultivate,  and  to  cultivate 
regularly  and  thoroughly,  then  give  up  all  thought 
of  a  garden.  The  garden  should  be  cultivated  at 
least  once  a  week  and  it  should  be  done  after  a  rain, 
or  after  watering  but  not  immediately  after,  as 
when  wet  earth  is  cultivated  and  left  in  lumps  to 
harden,  another  cultivation  will  be  necessary  to 
break  up  the  lumps  and  permit  air  to  enter  the 
soil.  To  cultivate  before  watering  will  also  cause 
lumps  to  form.  There  is  a  "just  the  right  time  for 
cultivation "  and  it  will  pay  every  amateur  to 
study  the  soil  and  learn  just  what  condition  it 
should  be  in  for  cultivation. 

Because  cultivation  is  so  helpful  in  conserving 
moisture,  very  frequent  cultivation  should  be 
given  during  a  long  dry  spell.  Cultivation  at 
such  a  time  should  be  merely  surface  cultivation 
as  to  dig  too  deep  will  bring  to  the  surface  some- 
what moist  earth  which  will  soon  dry  out.  To 
cultivate  only  an  inch  or  two  will  tend  to  let  in  air 

149 


150  Cultivation 

and  yet  prevent  the  moisture  from  oozing  forth. 
The  best  time  of  the  day  for  cultivating  the 
garden  is  early  in  the  morning  while  the  dew  is 
yet  on  the  foliage.  The  air  at  this  time  is 
very  invigorating  both  for  plants  and  people, 
and  aside  from  the  great  benefit  to  the  plants, 
the  gardener  will  derive  a  vast  amount  of  benefit 
physically. 

Something  to  consider  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
garden  is  the  kind  of  tool  to  use.  A  hoe  of  the 
right  size  will  be  most  appreciated;  a  large  hoe 
between  rows,  a  small,  sharp-bladed  hoe  for  use 
between  plants,  and  a  fork  or  trowel  for  the  very 
small,  closely  set  vegetables.  There  is  a  right 
angle  and  a  wrong  angle  at  which  to  hold  the  hoe. 
That  stoop  of  the  shoulders  from  hoeing  would  not 
exist  if  the  correct  tools  were  used  and  the  correct 
position  assumed  when  holding  them.  There  is 
no  more  reason  for  gardening  causing  the  shoulders 
to  droop  than  for  gymnastic  exercises,  if  the  garde- 
ner would  but  learn  to  hold  himself  correctly  and 
to  use  the  proper  implements  while  working.  For 
one  who  can  work  with  the  left  arm,  a  change  is 
recommended,  as  this  will  prevent  one  from  grow- 
ing too  fatigued,  but  at  any  rate  a  change  in  the 
position  of  holding  the  tools  can  be  practiced  by 
every  one. 


Cultivation  151 

The  garden  should  not  be  cultivated  just  after  a 
rain  or  after  being  watered.  If  it  is,  the  soil  will 
dry  in  lumps  and  the  harm  done  to  the  plant 
hardly  be  counteracted. 

Too  much  importance  cannot  be  placed  upon 
cultivation  of  the  garden.  During  dry  weather 
however,  the  cultivation  should  not  exceed  a  depth 
of  two  inches.  Only  the  surface  should  be  stirred 
in  order  to  form  a  "dust  mulch. "  This  layer  may 
become  dry  but  it  will  prevent  the  escape  of  moist- 
ure through  the  pores  of  the  soil.  A  layer  of 
manure,  for  a  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  inches 
around  certain  vegetables,  will  be  beneficial  in 
preserving  moisture,  but  it  should  not  be  heavy 
enough  to  exclude  air,  and  it  should  not  be  put 
on  plants  if  it  is  going  to  over-enrich  them.  The 
kind  of  manure  should  be  suited  to  the  plant. 

Certain  vegetables  which  do  not  require  much 
heat,  and  do  require  moist  soil,  may  be  protected 
by  placing  a  board  near  them  in  such  way  as  to  cut 
off  the  sun's  rays.  Stakes  driven  in  the  ground  to 
lean  the  board  on  will  answer  the  purpose  very 
well. 

Manure,  straw,  leaves,  boards,  pine  boughs,  and 
cloth  may  be  used  for  covering  to  protect  annuals 


152  Cultivation 

from  the  winter's  blast.  Coarse,  loose  covering 
is  better  than  finely  compacted  substances.  To 
protect  plants  from  the  extreme  cold  will  mean 
earlier  spring  foliage. 

.Cultivation  destroys  weeds,  breaks  up  the  soil, 
and  gives  the  roots  a  chance  to  break  through 
hard  lumps,  forms  a  dust  mulch  and  thus  conserves 
moisture,  makes  the  food  more  easily  available 
to  plants,  warms  the  soil,  permits  air  to  reach  the 
roots,  and  adds  humus  to  the  soil  by  plowing 
under  bits  of  vegetation.  Cultivate  your  garden! 

The  cultivation  of  berries,  trees,  and  all  biennials 
should  not  be  given  too  early  in  the  spring  or  the 
plants  may  become  chilled  and  the  young  roots 
be  injured. 

Mark  the  spot  where  seed  for  late  crops  are 
planted  or  cultivation  may  result  in  destroying  the 
entire  crop. 

Frequent  cultivation  should  be  given  in  dry 
weather.  Cultivation  is  a  substitute  for  fertilization 
and  water. 

The  best  time  of  day  for  cultivating  the  garden 
is  early  in  the  morning  while  the  dew  is  still  on  the 
plants.  Besides  the  benefit  to  the  plants  the  gard- 


Cultivation  153 

ener  will  be  much  benefited  by  the  early  morning 
air. 

Those  who  suffer  with  backache  from  gardening 
will  be  most  pleased  to  know  that  a  wheel  hoe 
will  afford  relief.  Cultivating  the  garden  by 
means  of  the  wheel  hoe  is  far  from  being  the 
hard  task  which  hoeing  has  always  proven  itself 
to  be. 

The  hoe  is  dangerous  to  small  plants.  One 
whack  and  the  plant  is  lost.  It  is  far  better  to  use 
a  fork  than  to  lose  plants  which  you  have  taken 
so  much  pains  to  give  a  growing  start.  Even 
if  the  plant  is  not  cut,  the  hoe  cannot  get  around 
fine  young  roots  and  stir  the  soil  properly. 

The  time  to  cultivate  the  garden  is  before  the 
weeds  get  a  start  above  the  ground,  or  else  just  as 
soon  as  the  weeds  have  made  an  appearance.  The 
larger  the  weed,  the  harder  to  eradicate  the  roots. 


WATERING 

WATERING  the  garden  is  futile  if  it  is  not  done 
thoroughly.  The  conservation  of  moisture  is  the 
principal  work  in  the  garden,  and  if  only  the  sur- 
face of  the  soil  is  wet,  the  earth  will  become  hard 
after  the  moisture  has  evaporated,  and  the  air, 
so  necessary  to  the  roots  of  vegetation,  will  be 
shut  out.  A  good  drenching  twice  a  week  will  be 
far  better  than  a  light  surface  watering  every  day. 
If  it  is  practical,  flood  the  garden  on  watering  days. 
The  best  time  of  day  for  watering  the  garden  is  not 
the  day,  but  the  night,  as  in  watering  at  night  all 
danger  of  sunscald  will  be  avoided  and  the  water 
will  have  ample  time  to  penetrate  to  the  roots  and 
do  its  good  work  before  the  sun's  rays  begin  to 
draw  it  heavenward.  If  it  is  not  possible  to  water 
at  night,  then  it  should  be  done  very  early  in  the 
morning  before  the  sun  is  up ;  and  during  the  spring 
the  early  morning  will  answer  nearly  as  well  as  the 
evening. 

In  watering  long  rows,  wherever  it  can  be  prac- 
154 


Watering  155 

tically  managed,  use  a  hose.  In  very  dry  climates, 
box  sluices  are  advised.  These  sluices  or  troughs 
should  have  small  holes  in  the  sides  for  permitting 
the  water  to  flow  through  to  the  surrounding  earth, 
and  if  one  cares  to  go  to  the  expense,  iron  pipes 
may  be  fitted  into  the  holes  and  the  water  run  off 
at  quite  a  distance  from  the  sluice. 

In  watering  seeded  ground,  a  very  fine  spray 
should  always  be  used  or  there  will  be  danger  of 
the  seed  being  washed  up  before  they  have  had 
time  to  germinate.  Seeds  that  have  been  planted 
in  flats  small  enough  to  handle  comfortably  may 
be  watered  satisfactorily  by  placing  the  flat  in  a 
tub  of  water,  allowing  the  earth  in  the  flat  to  soak 
the  water  up  from  the  bottom.  Very  small  plants 
which  need  careful  handling  should  have  the  water 
applied  by  means  of  a  dipper  or  other  hand  recep- 
tacle, and  in  watering  large  bushes  or  trees,  care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  water  does  actually 
have  a  chance  to  get  at  the  roots.  A  pipe  a  couple 
of  inches  in  diameter  driven  into  the  ground  near 
the  roots  will  serve  well  for  supplying  water  to  the 
roots.  After  the  pipe  is  driven  in,  it  should  be 
kept  filled  with  water  until  all  the  surrounding 
earth  appears  moist. 

When  there  is  a  long  dry  spell,  all  foliage  should 


156  Watering 

be  washed  off  by  means  of  the  garden  hose  in  order 
that  the  leaves  may  be  freed  from  dust  and  per- 
mitted to  breathe.  When  using  the  hose  for 
watering  the  "oil,  remove  the  nozzle  from  the 
hose  and  apply  the  hose  directly  to  the  ground.  If 
holes  are  dug  before  applying  the  hose,  the  water 
will  be  the  more  easily  forced  into  the  ground. 

Tender  plants  should  .nave  water  applied  very 
gently,  either  by  a  very  light  spray  from  the  garden 
hose,  by  a  watering  pot  with  a  spray  attached  to 
the  mouth  or  by  using  a  cup  and  a  pail. 

When  pebbles  or  stones  are  not  available  as  a  foun- 
dation for  securing  drainage,  clinkers  from  the  coal 
stove  will  answer  very  well.  A  good  supply  of 
fertile  soil  should  be  placed  over  them,  however, 
to  make  sure  that  the  roots  will  obtain  the  required 
amount  of  nourishment  before  reaching  the 
clinkers. 

When  plants  are  dry  enough  to  wilt,  they  need 
water.  This,  however,  is  not  true  of  plants  that 
are  being  hardened  off.  They  should  not  be  given 
an  abundant  supply  of  water  during  the  hardening 
process  or  they  will  "take  cold." 

Charcoal  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  pail  of 
water  in  which  fresh  vegetables  are  placed  to  keep 


Watering  157 

fresh  will  be  very  beneficial.     If  the  water  is 
renewed,  the  charcoal  should  be  renewed. 

Vegetables  will  remain  fresh  longer  if  placed  in 
salty  water  than  if  placed  in  fresh  water. 

Vegetables  which  are  forced  by  artificial  dressings 
are  not  as  nutritious  as  vegetables  which  are 
allowed  to  take  their  natural  time  in  maturing. 


WEEDS 

THE  time  to  weed  is  before  the  weeds  get  a  start 
or  they  will  very  shortly  take  from  the  earth  so 
much  nourishment  that  the  vegetables  will  be 
stunted  in  growth,  and  to  put  off  weeding  for  a  few 
days  is  a  dangerous  habit  for  in  a  short  time  a 
lasting  injury  will  be  done  to  the  plants.  Why 
we  have  weeds  is  more  or  less  conjectural.  Per- 
haps they  are  for  some  good  purpose,  but  so  far 
it  would  seem  that  their  only  purpose  is  to  en- 
courage work  in  the  open  air. 

Weeds  have  their  favorites  among  the  vege- 
table family,  and  some  weeds  which  will  persist  in 
cultivating  the  society  of  one  vegetable  will  not 
be  attracted  by  another  variety,  hence  a  rotation 
of  crops,  or  planting  a  different  vegetable  in  a 
locality  every  couple  of  years  will  tend  to  check 
weed  growth.  There  are  times  when  nothing  but 
weeding  by  hand,  with  a  fork  for  getting  after  the 
roots,  will  answer  the  purpose.  And  not  only 
weeds  among  vegetables  should  be  destroyed,  but 
the  weeds  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the 

158 


Weeds  159 

garden  should  be  eradicated,  for  the  weeds  run 
quickly  to  seed  and  the  wind  is  as  able  a  carrier 
as  even  weeds  could  wish.  Old  piles  of  manure 
and  refuse  will  harbor  weeds  and  produce  an 
abundance  of  seeds  in  a  short  while,  hence  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  to  keep  the  garden  clean. 
Another  caution  with  regard  to  weeds,  is  to  be 
careful  of  your  dealer  when  purchasing  seed,  for 
many  weeds  get  their  start  from  the  package  which 
is  supposed  to  contain  only  vegetable  seed. 

In  certain  sections  of  the  country  we  have  dande- 
lions, Queen  Anne's  lace,  ragweed,  chickory,  plan- 
tains, etc.,  while  in  the  Southern  States  there  is  a 
most  tenacious  and  pernicious  little  grass  called 
nut  grass  which,  when  it  once  has  a  firm  foothold, 
is  almost  impossible  to  eradicate  without  a  thor- 
ough and  deep  plowing.  This  little  grass  is  quite 
pretty  and  its  "nut, "  grown  under  the  soil,  is  very 
good  food  for  swine,  and  hogs  are  very  effective  in 
getting  rid  of  it  permanently.  Unfortunately, 
however,  the  gardener  of  a  small  plot  has  no  supply 
of  swine  helpers  to  turn  loose  in  the  garden  patch, 
even  if  they  could  be  guaranteed  not  to  molest  the 
vegetables. 

On  the  following  pages  are  various  simple  sug- 
gestions, harmless  to  human  beings,  for  eradicating 
the  different  kinds  of  weeds. 


160  Weeds 

Never  let  the  weeds  get  a  start.  It  is  much  easier 
to  eradicate  them  while  they  are  young  and  tender. 
Hardy  roots  will  keep  on  growing  long  after  the 
tops  have  been  cut  away. 

A  solution  of  ordinary  cooking  soda  and  boiling 
water  will  kill  weeds,  root  and  tops.  It  will,  how- 
ever, kill  any  vegetation  with  which  it  comes  in 
contact  and  should  be  used  cautiously  when  apply- 
ing to  weeds  to  make  sure  that  it  does  not  touch 
vegetables. 

Queen  Anne's  lace,  or  the  Wild  Carrot  denotes  poor 
soil.  It  is  very  difficult  to  get  rid  of  when  it  once 
has  a  good  start  and  it  will  multiply  and  spread 
very  rapidly.  Where  there  is  a  large  patch,  it 
should  be  plowed  up  and  all  roots  picked  out  and  it 
is  best  to  do  this  twice  a  season  for  two  or  three 
years,  if  possible,  before  using  the  land. 

Strong  salty  water  will  kill  weedst  and  it  will  also 
kill  other  vegetation. 

Concentrated  lye  is  deadly  to  plant  life,  be  it  weed 
or  vegetables. 

A  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron  will  kill  chickweed 
but  this  should  be  used  cautiously  and  always 


Weeds  161 

with  a  hand  sprayer  as  it  is  very  injurious  to  the 
skin. 

Boiling  water  in  which  has  been  dissolved  strong 
washing  soda  will  be  very  effective  in  killing  poison 
ivy  and  weeds  which  have  started  growth  in  the 

garden. 
zz 


INSECTS  AND  SPRAYS 

FOR  every  variety  of  plant  there  is  a  species  of 
insects.  Diligence  must  be  exercised  constantly 
if  one  would  control  and  destroy  these  little  pests. 
Many  and  varied  are  the  commercial  spraying 
solutions  to  be  purchased,  but  beware  of  the  solu- 
tion which  is  recommended  for  all  species  of  in- 
sects. It  is  probably  effective  with  none.  A  spray 
that  will  mean  death  to  one  species  may  be  a 
tonic  for  another,  and  it  behooves  the  gardener  to 
make  a  study  of  insects  in  order  to  be  able  to  note 
from  the  appearance  just  what  nature  of  animal 
he  is  to  fight.  Insects  from  the  same  family  may 
be  so  unlike  that  an  amateur  will  think  them  a 
separate  and  distinct  kind,  but  he  can  by  close 
study  learn  to  determine  just  what  insects  are 
attacking  the  vegetation  in  his  own  particular 
locality.  When  the  variety  of  insect  is  known, 
half  the  battle  is  won.  There  then  remain  but  to 
find  out  what  will  kill  it,  and  procure  the  recom- 
mended solution  or  powder,  as  the  case  may  be, 

162 


Insects  and  Sprays  163 

and  watch  and  work  during  the  entire  gardening 
season.     That  is  all! 

Certain  insects  follow  certain  vegetables.  And 
when  a  garden  bed  has  become  badly  infested  with 
insects  during  a  season,  be  sure  not  to  plant  the 
same  vegetable  there  the  next  season.  Insects 
multiply  each  year.  The  first  year,  they  may  be 
small  in  number,  but  the  family  will  be  very  likely 
to  have  much  more  than  doubled  by  another  season 
if  the  gardener  has  been  the  least  bit  slack.  And 
insects  are  often  brought  to  the  garden  on  plants 
which  are  purchased  from  the  seedsman.  Some- 
times it  is  possible  for  even  the  most  careful  of 
seedsmen  to  guarantee  he  is  not  selling  an  insect 
with  the  plant.  Therefore,  I  would  suggest  a 
thorough  spraying  of  each  plant  as  soon  as  it  is 
set  out. 

When  a  plant  has  once  become  badly  infested 
with  bugs,  it  is  the  safest  plan  to  pull  up  and 
burn  the  plant.  Spraying  sometimes  is  the 
means  of  washing  insects  off  to  crawl  away  and 
find  a  home  on  another  plant.  In  carrying  the 
infested  plant  from  the  garden,  be  careful  not 
to  strike  it  against  other  vegetation,  or  you  may 
soon  have  to  destroy  that  plant  for  the  same 
reason. 

In  spraying,  spray  carefully,  but  be  sure  not  to 


1 64  Insects  and  Sprays 

use  a  poisonous  mixture  on  foliage  which  is  to  be 
eaten  by  human  beings,  or  cattle,  and  do  not  apply 
a  poison  to  the  flowers  or  fruit  of  the  vegetables. 
Never  use  stale  spraying  solutions.  Many  solu- 
tions lose  their  strength  shortly  after  being  exposed 
to  the  air  and  your  time  and  solution  may  be 
entirely  wasted.  For  this  reason,  it  is  perhaps 
better  to  make  up  your  solutions  just  as  you  need 
them.  Recipes  for  the  various  solutions  are  given 
below  and  on  the  following  pages. 

All  of  the  vegetable  crops  are  subject  to  attacks 
of  insects  and  diseases.  Plants  should  be  examined 
almost  every  day  to  see  if  the  plants  are  dying 
or  if  insects  have  attacked  them.  Insects  injuri- 
ous to  vegetables  are  divided  into  two  classes, 
those  which  eat  up  the  plant  and  those  which 
suck  the  sap  and  cause  the  plant  to  die.  The  eating 
insect  leaves  the  plant  full  of  holes.  Most  of  this 
variety  can  be  controlled  by  spraying  or  by  dusting 
poison  on  the  leaves.  Paris  Green  and  Ar senate  of 
lead  are  recommended  for  killing  eating  insects 
but  these  poisons  are  dangerous  and  must  be 
handled  with  care.  They  should  not  be  put  on 
any  vegetable  that  cannot  be  thoroughly  washed 
before  using  and  should  not  be  used  unless  the 
consumer  is  to  be  aware  of  the  fact  of  their  use. 


Insects  and  Sprays  165 

For  the  sucking  insect  show  a  specimen  to  the  near- 
est gardener  and  get  advice. 

Strong  soapsuds  made  by  boiling  one  half  pound 
of  laundry  soap  in  a  gallon  of  water  will  kill  plant 
lice.  This  should  be  used  daily  for  three  or  four 
days,  at  least. 

Bacterial  diseases  are  caused  by  bacteria  getting 
into  the  water  canals  of  plants  and  shutting  off 
the  water.  They  can  usually  be  controlled  by 
spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture.  Usually  from 
three  to  five  sprays  will  be  sufficient. 

The  cabbage  aphis  which  is  often  taken  for  mil- 
dew on  the  cabbage  is  best  destroyed  in  the  fall. 
The  field  should  be  completely  cleaned  and  fed  to 
the  pigs,  poultry  or  cattle. 

Sucking  insects  can  nearly  always  be  destroyed 
by  being  doped  with  a  solution  of  nicotine,  i.e., 
strong  tobacco  soaked  for  twenty-four  hours  in  hot 
water,  but  applied  cold. 

Flea-beetles  have  in  recent  years  been  very 
destructive  to  young  cabbage,  radish,  and  turnip 
plants.  Tobacco  dust,  freely  applied  will  in  most 
instances  drive  the  pests  away.  Lime  flavored 


1 66  Insects  and  Sprays 

with  Paris  Green  or  slug-shot  will  help  in  some 
instances. 

The  troublesome  little  maggot  which  affects  cab- 
bage, radishes,  onions,  and  a  few  other  vegetables, 
may  be  destroyed  by  dusting  with  a  mixture  of 
lime  and  tobacco.  The  tobacco  should  be  dried 
and  ground  to  a  powder  before  mixing  with  the 
lime. 

Cabbage  worms  will  usually  succumb  to  a  dusting 
of  one  part  of  fresh  Persian  insect  powder  to  four 
parts  of  air-slaked  lime.  This  should  be  dusted 
on  the  plants  at  regular  intervals  for  several  days. 

Asparagus  beetles  can  be  controlled  during  the 
cutting  season  by  letting  a  row  or  two  go  uncut. 
The  pests  will  usually  all  go  to  the  few  uncut  stalks 
and  can  be  killed  easily  with  arsenical  sprays.  All 
other  rows  should  be  cut  closely. 

Be  on  the  spot  with  your  spraying  apparatus  in 
good  season  or  the  blight  will  do  a  great  deal  of 
harm  in  the  potato  field.  If  the  disease  gets  well 
under  way  it  is  very  hard  to  conquer. 

Watch  carefully  for  potato  beetles.  Every  beetle 
picked  up  and  destroyed  means  preventing  numbers 
of  other  beetles  from  multiplying. 


Insects  and  Sprays  167 

Melons,  cucumbers,  and  squash  vines  are  often 
attacked  by  the  yellow  striped  squash-bug  when  the 
plants  are  very  young.  A  sure  way  of  preventing 
their  attack  is  to  cover  the  vines  with  mosquito  net- 
ting, covering  the  edges  with  soil  to  hold  the  netting 
in  place.  This  should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  vines 
can  be  seen,  even  before  will  be  better,  and  should 
remain  in  place  until  the  vines  push  for  room. 

Cucumber  plants  and  melons  usually  have  a  hard 
fight  with  aphis  in  June.  They  work  on  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves  which  curl  up  and  are  difficult  to 
spray.  Spraying  with  kerosene,  tobacco  dust,  or 
whale-oil  soap  will  kill  them.  They  are  difficult 
to  reach  after  once  having  a  start,  and  the  safest 
thing  is  to  destroy  all  infested  plants. 

Late  in  the  season  the  squash,  pumpkin,  canta- 
loupe, cucumber,  and  watermelon  plants  are  likely 
to  be  attacked  by  the  cucumber-beetle.  The  plants 
should  be  sprayed  with  pure  kerosene  in  order  that 
the  bugs  may  be  destroyed  even  though  the  garden- 
ing season  is  about  over,  for  these  little  pests 
hibernate  during  the  winter  and  will  attack  the 
plants  in  'the  spring  as  soon  as  they  appear  above 
the  ground. 

Many  insects,  such  as  the  asparagus-beetle, 
squash-bugs,  and  a  host  of  others,  hibernate  all 


i68  Insects  and  Sprays 

winter  in  rubbish  or  broken  stems  of  weeds  or 
plants,  therefore  all  this  rubbish  should  be  burned 
as  a  precaution. 

Bean  anthracnose  can  be  avoided  by  a  careful 
selection  of  seed.  If  seed  are  saved  only  from 
perfectly  healthy  pods,  which  have  no  spots  what- 
ever on  them,  shelled  by  hand  and  put  away 
carefully  to  avoid  reinfection,  in  all  probability 
a  good  crop  will  be  produced. 

To  get  rid  of  bean  blight,  pull  up  and  burn  all 
diseased  plants.  This  is  very  difficult  to  control 
when  it  has  once  made  headway. 

Never  plant  beans  on  land  which  has  grown 
beans  the  previous  season.  Plant  another  vege- 
table there  instead.  It  will  be  safe  to  go  back  to 
that  location  the  year  following. 

All  fungus  diseases  should  be  sprayed  with 
Bordeaux  mixture. 

Land  that  is  badly  infested  with  white  grubs 
should  not  be  plowed  until  late  in  the  season,  and 
no  corn,  strawberries  or  potatoes  should  be  planted 
to  feed  them.  A  rotation  of  vegetables  will  be 
helpful  in  ridding  the  land  of  them. 


Insects  and  Sprays  169 

Do  not  fail  to  destroy  every  tent-caterpillar  you 
see.  They  multiply  too  rapidly  to  take  chances 
with  even  one. 

To  kill  weevils  in  beans,  peas,  chestnuts,  etc., 
put  the  legumes  or  nuts  in  a  barrel  which  has  no 
cracks  and  pour  over  them  a  teacupf  ul  of  bisulphide 
of  carbon.  Then  cover  tightly  with  a  wet  blanket 
or  other  woolen  cloth  for  twenty-four  hours.  Do 
not  breathe  the  fumes  and  be  careful  not  to  have 
fire  or  lights  anywhere  near. 

The  browntail  moth  is  a  white  moth  with  a 
brown  abdomen.  It  lays  its  eggs  usually  on  the 
under  side  of  the  leaf  during  July,  which  hatch  into 
caterpillars  and  do  their  damage  the  following 
spring.  Four  pounds  of  arsenate  of  lead  to  fifty 
gallons  of  water  is  an  adequate  spray  for  their 
death,  and  the  trees  should  be  sprayed  in  August 
soon  after  the  eggs  hatch  and  again  when  the 
leaves  open. 

Aphis,  San  Jose  scale,  apple-scab,  and  fly-speck 
disease  of  apples  should  be  spread  with  a  solution 
of  commercial  lime-sulphur,  one  gallon  to  eight 
gallons  of  water  in  the  spring  before  the  buds 
open  and  again  in  the  fall  after  the  leaves  fall  off. 
Persistency  is  the  keynote  of  success  in  spraying. 


170  Insects  and  Sprays 

Curculio,  bud  moth,  tent-caterpillars,  and  canker 
worms  should  be  killed  by  spraying  with  arsenate 
of  lead  mixture.  The  trees  should  be  well  sprayed 
before  the  blossoms  open,  if  the  spraying  is  to  be 
effective  without  being  harmful  to  the  fruit. 

Watch  the  apple  trees  closely  during  July  for  the 
maggot  or  railroad  worm  which  does  so  much 
damage.  It  is  especially  bad  in  early  apples  and 
the  sweet  varieties  of  apples.  About  the  only 
thing  to  do  is  to  take  off  and  destroy  the  infected 
fruit.  Usually  the  infected  ones  will  fall  to  the 
ground  and  they  can  be  eaten  by  animals  without 
harm.  Trees  that  are  kept  well  sprayed  are  not 
usually  affected. 

When  apples  are  to  be  packed  away  for  the 
winter,  line  the  barrel  or  box  with  double  layers 
of  paper  to  keep  them  from  becoming  bruised  when 
moved  around.  If  not  bruised  there  will  be  less 
danger  of  rotting. 

An  old  worn-out  curry-comb  is  excellent  for 
scraping  dead  bark  and  moss  from  old  trees. 

When  burying  ashes  near  the  roots  of  vegetables 
with  the  intent  to  keep  mice  away,  see  that  the 
ashes  do  not  come  in  direct  contact  with  the  stems 
and  leaves. 


Insects  and  Sprays  171 

Caterpillars  had  best  be  picked  off  by  Hand,  or 
knocked  into  a  pail  of  kerosene  emulsion.  If 
they  are  picked  off,  however,  the  chickens  will 
enjoy  the  feast. 

Ordinary  table  salt  stirred  into  the  ground  near 
the  plants  which  are  attacked  by  the  wireworm  will 
be  very  effective  in  getting  rid  of  these  little  pests. 
It  should  not  be  put  close  to  the  plant,  however, 
or  the  plant,  too,  will  succumb. 

When  the  fruit  trees  are  covered  with  a  thick,  hard 
scale,  apply  a  solution  of  lime-sulphur  water  to 
the  bark.  This  application  should  not  be  made 
while  there  are  leaves  on  the  trees  as  it  is  very 
strong  and  will  injure  tender  foliage. 

Wherever  there  is  stagnant  water  there  will 
surely  be  mosquito  larvce.  So  be  sure  to  look  into 
every  empty  tin  can  lying  around,  pour  kerosene 
oil  down  the  drains,  sewer,  into  cisterns  and  pools, 
etc. 

Ammonia  or  salt  diluted  with  vinegar  will  allay 
the  pain  of  mosquito  bites. 

A  pile  of  rotting  straw  is  a  veritable  hotbed  for 
the  multiplication  of  fleas,  as  it  is  also  for  flies. 


172  Insects  and  Sprays 

Clear  it  away  and  sprinkle  coarse  salt  over  the 
spot.    The  fleas  will  immediately  disperse. 

Fleas  may  be  trapped  by  sticky  fly  paper.  A 
boy  once  caused  the  death  of  any  number  by  tying 
sticky  fly  paper  on  his  ankles  and  walking  into  the 
midst  of  a  bed  of  fleas.  They  flew  toward  the 
moving  object  and  met  their  death. 

Ants  abound  on  plants  infested  with  aphis.  They 
feed  on  the  excrement  of  the  aphis  and  they 
carry  aphis  from  plant  to  plant  To  destroy  ants 
will  go  a  great  way  in  getting  rid  of  aphis 

Drench  ant  colonies  with  boiling  water;  spray 
the  lawn  where  they  abound  with  kerosene  emul- 
sion, or  with  strong  soapsuds  made  by  dissolving 
any  common  laundry  soap  in  a  gallon  of  hot  water. 
For  large  colonies  bisulphide  of  carbon  will  be  found 
effective.  vSquirt  this  into  the  nests  by  means  of  an 
oil  can  or  syringe.  After  the  bisulphide  has  been 
injected  into  the  nest,  close  the  entrance  with  earth. 
The  fumes  will  permeate  all  of  the  nest  and  kill  all 
the  inmates.  While  bisulphide  is  perfectly  harmless 
if  kept  away  from  fire,  it  is  very  inflammable  and 
may  explode  if  ignited.  Plants  that  are  affected 
by  ants  are  not  the  attraction  in  themselves,  but 


Insects  and  Sprays  173 

the  ants  are  attracted  by  sweet  juices  left  there  by 
plant  lice. 

The  house  centipede  hides  behind  flowerpots, 
mops,  and  dirty  rags  which  are  stored  in  damp 
places.  Fresh  pyrethum  powder  in  the  closets, 
bathroom,  cellar,  conservatory,  and  other  places 
where  it  frequents  will  soon  rid  the  house  of  them. 
It  feeds  on  cockroaches,  the  typhoid  fever  fly,  and 
other  harmful  insects,  but  it  is  not  an  agreeable 
looking  object  to  have  around. 

To  control  the  Hessian  fly,  try  burning  all 
stubble  and  clearing  all  refuse  from  damp  places. 

To  destroy  the  small  black  fly  which  feeds  on  the 
pear  and  cherry  trees,  spray  the  trees  with  arsenate 
of  lead  in  water,  in  the  proportion  of  two  pounds  of 
the  poison  to  fifty  gallons  of  water.  If  the  appli- 
cation is  not  made  until  the  fruit  is  well  under  way, 
it  will  be  safer  to  use  white  hellebore  instead  of 
arsenate  of  lead. 

The  fly  should  be  swatted  before  he  becomes  a 
fly.  They  breed  readily  in  manure  and  the  manure 
should  be  treated  with  borax,  a  heaping  pint  meas- 
ure of  borax  to  every  eight  bushels  of  manure. 
The  borax  should  be  applied  with  a  flour  sifter 
or  other  sieve  and  two  or  three  gallons  of  water 


174  Insects  and  Sprays 

should  be  sprinkled  over  the  manure  after  it  has 
been  treated  with  the  borax. 

In  sprinkling  large  quantites  of  manure  with 
borax  it  should  not  be  used  in  greater  quantity 
than  fifteen  tons  to  the  acre  or  damage  to  the 
vegetables  to  which  the  manure  is  applied  may 
result. 

Sprinkling  manure  with  a  solution  of  half  a 
pound  of  powdered  hellebore  dissolved  in  ten  gal- 
lons of  water  will  destroy  from  eight-five  to  ninety 
per  cent,  of  the  larva  or  maggots  which  produce 
flies. 

The  army  worm  which  can  cause  so  much  havoc 
in  such  a  short  period  of  time  is  a  smooth,  striped 
caterpillar  about  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  length, 
and  rather  dark  in  appearance.  The  moth  from 
which  it  hatches  is  brown  with  white  spots  on  the 
wings.  The  most  practical  way  to  stop  their  pro- 
gress in  order  to  destroy  them  is  to  dig  a  furrow  in 
front  of  their  path  and  let  them  fall  into  it  and 
pour  kerosene  on  them.  If  they  are  already  in  a 
field,  mix  I  Ib.  of  Paris  green  with  fifty  pounds  of 
wheat  ^bran  and  the  juice  of  half  a  dozen  oranges. 
Mix  this  with  molasses  to  form  a  dough  and  scatter 
it  about.  Do  not  let  this  be  put  where  children 


Insects  and  Sprays  175 

can  get  at  it.     The  army  worms  breed  usually  in 
rank  grass  or  over-fertilized  fields. 

Wasps  may  be  destroyed  by  placing  a  gallon 
jug  containing  a  quart  of  water  near  the  nest. 
The  wasps  will  fly  angrily  at  the  jug;  the  hollow 
sound  of  its  buzzing  echoing  from  the  jug  will  make 
it  enter  the  latter  and  fall  into  the  water.  Wasps 
call  to  each  other,  and  where  one  goes  the  others 
follow.  Paris  green  distributed  on  minced  meat 
is  poisonous  to  them,  but  this  is  a  deadly  poison 
to  humans  as  well  and  should  be  carefully  handled. 

Spores  and  germs  of  diseases  often  are  in  the  soil 
when  it  is  plowed  under,  so  use  the  precaution  of 
raking  up  and  burning  all  dead  vines,  etc.  Rotation 
is  another  means  of  checking  the  ravages  of  insects 
and  diseases. 

The  standard  remedy  for  San  Jos£  scale  is 
lime-sulphur.  If  this  cannot  be  procured  at  your 
dealer's,  slake  22  Ibs.  of  fresh  lime,  using  just 
enough  water  to  cover  the  lime.  Add  17  Ibs.  of 
sulphur  which  has  been  mixed  to  a  paste  with  water. 
Boil  for  an  hour  in  10  gallons  of  water,  using  an  iron 
vessel.  Add  enough  water  to  make  50  gallons 
and  strain  through  wire  netting. 


176  Insects  and  Sprays 

Motor  goggles  should  be  worn  when  spraying 
trees  or  high  shrubbery  to  protect  the  eyes,  other- 
wise serious  trouble  may  result. 

When  the  apple  blossoms  begin  to  fall,  the  fruit 
grower  should  begin  to  spray.  When  the  calyx 
lobes  close  a  couple  of  weeks  later,  the  spraying 
should  stop. 

The  little  brown  slug  that  eats  the  foliage  of 
cherry,  plum,  and  pear  trees  in  the  summer  time  is 
not  difficult  to  control.  It  can  be  destroyed  by 
spraying  with  two  ounces  of  hellebore  in  one  gallon 
of  water. 

Pine-mice  destroy  fruit  trees,  attacking  below  the 
surface,  and  their  deadly  work  is  not  discovered 
sometimes  before  the  tree  is  dead.  Bury  a  little 
poisoned  bran  (mixed  with  Paris  green)  near  tree 
but  not  on  the  roots. 

When  a  greenhouse  has  been  infested  with  insects, 
all  good  plants  should  be  taken  out  and  the  house 
thoroughly  disinfected.  Burning  6  ounces  of  sul- 
phur to  every  1000  cubic  feet  of  space  and  keeping 
the  house  tightly  closed  for  24  hours  will  destroy 
any  insects.  Any  plants  infected  should  be  de- 
stroyed, and  this  can  be  done  by  leaving  them  in 
the  greenhouse  when  the  disinfecting  is  being  done. 


Insects  and  Sprays  177 

Hydrocyanic  gas  is  a  most  dangerous  fumigant 
and  should  never  be  used  except  by  experts. 

Tobacco  extract  can  be  procured  at  almost  any 
dealer's  and  is  safe  and  satisfactory  to  use  as  a  dis- 
infectant. It  should  be  burned  once  every  spring 
in  the  greenhouse,  as  it  is  very  effective  in  de- 
stroying plant  lice.  The  plants  should  be  taken 
out  first. 

A  little  mustard  water  composed  of  a  teaspoonf ul 
of  mustard  to  a  quart  of  water  will  prove  very 
efficacious  in  killing  various  insects  which  feast  on 
the  leaves  of  vegetables. 

Blight,  mildew,  leaf -spot,  and  rust  can  be  eradicated 
by  the  use  of  lime-sulphur,  Bordeaux  mixture  and 
ammoniacal  solution  of  copper  carbonate. 

Tree  tanglefoot,  wrapped  and  tied  around  the 
lower  part  of  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  will  catch  and  hold 
many  crawling  insects  which  are  making  their  way 
to  the  branches  to  eat  the  tender  leaves. 

When  harmful  worms  are  devastating  the  garden, 
pour  a  little  limewater  around  the  plants  which 
they  seem  to  attack  most  frequently.  See  that  the 
water  sinks  into  the  earth.  Later,  you  may  need 


178  Insects  and  Sprays 

to  re-fertilize  with  liquid  fertilizer,  as  lime  tends  to 
destroy  the  fertility  of  the  soil. 

A  powder  gun  will  be  found  a  most  convenient 
little  article  when  spraying  with  sulphur  dust  or 
other  dry  powders.  It  will  not  be  expensive  and 
will  last  indefinitely. 

An  asbestos  torch  can  be  used  to  advantage  when 
getting  rid  of  caterpillars  on  high  branches.  It 
should  be  saturated  with  kerosene  and  held  near 
the  insects.  The  heat  will  kill  the  pests  and  will 
not  destroy  the  trees. 

Quails,  tree-swallows,  killdeers,  robins,  flickers, 
night-hawks,  and  pine-siskins  are  invaluable  to  the 
gardener.  Among  the  pests  which  they  eat  for 
the  fanner  are: 

Boll-weevils 

Potato-bugs 

Chinch-bugs 

Plant  lice 

Olive  scales 

Mosquito  larvae 

Grasshoppers 

Beetles 

Wasps 

Caterpillars 

A  gentle  slope  toward  the  south  or  southeast  is 
preferable  for  the  garden,  as  it  tends  both  to  pro- 
duce earlier  crops  and  is  likely  to  drain  properly. 


Insects  and  Sprays  179 

Even   a  fence   will   afford   protection,   however, 
against  winds,  and  evergreens  will  do  some  good. 


The  surface  of  the  garden  should  have  no  de- 
pressions into  which  the  water  will  drain  and  stand. 
This  will  breed  certain  pests,  mosquitoes  among 
the  number,  and  the  vegetables  near  will  be  too 
moist  with  the  possible  result  of  rotting  them. 

The  toad  is  the  gardener's  best  friend.  Never 
kill  one.  In  three  months  he  will  devour  10,000 
insects,  among  which  are  beetles,  worms,  snails, 
spiders,  grasshoppers,  crickets,  weevils,  moths, 
caterpillars,  wasps,  yellow-jackets,  ants,  and  others. 
It  never  eats  food  without  life.  It  can  live  two 
years  without  eating,  but  cannot  live  long  under 
water,  and  it  can  lay  more  than  a  thousand  eggs 
a  year.  Cultivate  toads. 

Angleworms  do  not  harm  plants.  Instead  they 
bring  good  soil  to  the  surface  and  mix  it  with  the 
other  soil.  They  draw  leaves,  grass,  etc.,  into  their 
holes  and  make  humus  and  when  they  die  they  fer- 
tilize the  soil  with  their  bodies.  Robins  would  eat 
more  fruit  than  they  do  now  if  they  had  not  angle- 
worms to  feed  on. 


i8o  Insects  and  Sprays 

To  protect  tomato  plants  from  the  cutworm,  wrap 
pieces  of  paper  around  the  stem  of  the  plant  for 
about  two  inches  below  the  soil  and  a  slight  dis- 
tance above.  Poisoned  bran  scattered  on  the 
ground  near  the  plants  will  kill  the  cutworms.  Be 
careful  not  to  get  it  on  the  leaves  of  the  plants. 

Birds  eat  many  of  the  harmful  insects. 

Insects  are  usually  most  prevalent  on  the  young 
twigs  of  plants,  and  it  is  there  the  spraying  should 
be  most  carefully  done.  To  spray  half-heartedly 
will  do  no  good. 

In  spraying  flowering  trees  or  vegetables,  be  careful 
to  get  the  mixture  into  the  flower  clusters.  The 
spray  should  be  directed  from  every  angle. 

Jack  Frost  is  the  champion  pest  eradicator. 

Fall  plowing  with  some  hens  following  the  plow 
is  a  good  way  to  get  rid  of  many  hibernating 
insects. 

Here  is  a  list  of  sprays  beneficial  to  plants  and 
which  every  gardener  should  know  how  to  make : 

Bordeaux  mixture: 

Dissolve  4  Ibs.  of  copper  sulphate  crystals  in  2 
gallons  of  hot  water,  using  a  wooden  container. 


Insects  and  Sprays  181 

or  dissolve  by  suspending  the  crystals  in  a  coarse 
sack  in  a  half  barrel  of  water. 

Slake  4  Ibs.  of  fresh  lime  in  a  wooden  tub  or 
half  barrel,  adding  slowly  just  enough  water  to 
insure  thorough  slaking.  When  slaked,  enough 
water  may  be  added  to  make  the  mixture  of  the 
consistency  of  cream. 

When  cold,  strain  lime  mixture  through  a  wire 
strainer  into  the  barrel  and  add  enough  water  to 
make  25  gallons;  dilute  the  copper  solution  with 
enough  water  to  make  25  gallons  and  pour  it  slowly 
into  the  lime  mixture. 

Bordeaux  Ar senate  of  Lead  Mixture: 

Mix  3  Ibs.  of  lead  arsenate  powder  with  50  gal- 
lons of  Bordeaux  mixture. 

Self -Boiled  Lime  Sulphur: 

Place  8  Ibs.  of  fresh  stone  lime  in  a  barrel  and 
slake,  using  no  more  water  than  is  necessary.  As 
soon  as  the  heat  has  generated,  sift  in  8  Ibs. 
of  sulphur  flour  and  stir  into  the  lime  solution 
thoroughly,  gradually  adding  more  water  to  make 
a  thick  paste.  Heat  for  fifteen  minutes  then  cool 
by  adding  more  water.  Strain  into  a  barrel  and 
add  enough  water  to  make  50  gallons  of  the 
mixture. 


1 82  Insects  and  Sprays 

Potassium  Sulphide: 

Dissolve  3  ounces  of  potassium  sulphide  in  10 
gallons  of  water. 

Corrosive  Sublimate: 

Dissolve  2  ozs.  of  corrosive  sublimate  in  15 
gallons  of  water.  (Very  poisonous.) 

Formaldehyde  Solution: 

For  spraying  potatoes,  I  Ib.  of  formaldehyde  to 
30  gallons  of  water. 

For  onion  smut,  I  Ib.  of  formaldehyde  to  16 
gallons  of  water. 

For  seed  bed,  I  Ib.  of  formaldehyde  for  \2% 
gallons  of  water. 

Paris  Green: 

Slake  %  Ib.  of  quick  lime  in  enough  water  to 
answer  the  purpose;  mix  J£  Ib.  Paris  green  with  a 
little  water  until  it  is  of  a  creamy  consistency,  and 
add  to  the  lime  water;  add  enough  water  to  make 
fifty  gallons. 

Ar senate  of  Lead  Paste: 

Dissolve  3  Ibs.  of  arsenate  of  lead  paste  in  50 
gallons  of  water. 


Insects  and  Sprays  183 

Ar senate  of  Lead  Powder: 

Mix  iJ/2  Ibs.  of  arsenate  of  lead  powder  with 
enough  water  to  make  a  creamy  consistency  and 
add  enough  water  to  make  50  gallons. 

Hellebore: 

Steep  2  ozs.  of  hellebore  in  a  pint  of  water  and 
gradually  add  more  water  until  it  amounts  to 
3  gallons. 

Whale-Oil  Soap: 

Dissolve  2  Ibs.  of  potash  whale-oil  soap  in  a 
gallon  of  water  for  use  in  the  summer  months;  for 
winter  use  dissolve  I  Ib.  of  soap. 

Kerosene  Emulsion: 

Dissolve  K  Ib.  of  good  hard  soap  in  a  gallon  of 
hot  water.  Chu  this  until  it  becomes  thick,  then 
mix  with  2  gallons  of  kerosene. 


FRUIT 
APPLES 

Deal  only  with  reliable  nurserymen.  It  takes  six 
years  before  the  apple  tree  from  the  nursery  bears 
fruit,  and  in  the  meantime  the  nursery  can  change 
hands,  or  salesmen,  and  where  can  the  blame  be 
laid? 

The  use  of  Bordeaux  mixture  on  apples,  pears, 
peaches,  and  quinces  has  been  generally  discontinued 
owing  to  the  danger  to  the  foliage  and  fruit.  It 
should  never  be  used  on  peaches  and  plums  in 
foliage,  and  lime-sulphur  will  be  more  satisfactory 
for  all  of  these  fruits. 

Hardwood  ashes  make  an  excellent  fertilizer  for 
almost  all  fruit  trees,  and  particularly  for  apples, 
peaches,  plums,  and  pears.  It  should  not  be  put 
up  against  the  trunk  but  at  a  distance  where  the 
ends  of  the  young  roots  will  strike  it. 

Apples,  pears,  and  quinces  may  be  safely  set  out 
in  the  fall  of  the  year,  but  the  spring  is  by  far  the 

184 


Fruit  185 

best  season  for  peach  and  .plum  trees,  particularly 
in  the  North. 

Dwarf  apple  trees  are  not  very  satisfactory. 
Their  fruit  is  never  any  better  and  sometimes  not 
as  good,  while  the  produce  cannot  be  as  great. 

The  heads  of  apple  trees  should  be  cut  down  in 
pruning  in  order  to  prevent  their  growing  so  tall 
that  they  cannot  be  successfully  sprayed.  When 
cutting,  be  sure  to  cut  back  to  a  healthy  side 
branch  to  avoid  leaving  a  stub. 

Old  apple  trees  badly  in  need  of  pruning  should 
have  about  one-fourth  of  the  wood  removed  in  order 
to  stimulate  them  to  a  more  vigorous  growth. 
This  should  be  done  while  the  trees  are  dormant, 
preferably  a  few  weeks  before  growth  starts  in  the 
spring.  All  dead,  dying,  and  crossed  branches 
should  be  cut. 

Do  all  grafting  on  a  mild  day  during  showery 
weather,  this  should  be  in  the  spring  when  the  sap 
begins  to  move  in  the  stock.  This  does  not  occur 
as  early  in  the  apple  and  pear  as  it  does  in  the 
cherry  and  plum.  The  necessary  tools  are  a  chisel,  a 
thick-bladed  knife,  or  a  grafting  iron  with  which  to 
split  open  the  stock  after  it  is  sawed  off  smoothly 


i86  Fruit 

with  a  fine-tooth  saw,  a  hammer  or  a  mallet  to  aid 
the  splitting  process,  a  very  sharp  knife  to  trim  the 
scions,  and  a  supply  of  good  grafting  wax. 

As  soon  as  the  fruit  has  dropped  from  the  apple 
trees,  usually  in  June,  thin  out  the  apples.  Each 
tree  should  be  studied  in  order  to  leave  a  well  bal- 
anced tree.  Merely  pulling  off  some  of  the  apples 
will  not  serve  the  purpose,  and  thinning  must  be 
done  properly  if  the  fruit  left  is  to  be  large,  lus- 
cious apples. 

It  is  a  good  practice  to  thin  the  fruit  from  the 
bottom  upward  as  the  fruit  near  the  lower  part  of 
the  trunk  will  naturally  not  get  as  much  sunlight 
and  air  as  the  fruit  nearer  the  top  of  the  tree. 

To  rid  an  apple  tree  of  the  codling  moth  and  the 
apple  worm,  spray  with  ar senate  of  lead  within  a 
week  after  the  petals  of  the  blossoms  have  fallen, 
and  again  two  or  three  weeks  later. 

The  gypsy  moths  hatch  into  caterpillars  and 
do  a  great  deal  of  damage  to  apples.  All  parts  of 
the  tree  affected  should  be  painted  with  creosote 
during  the  winter,  and  after  the  petals  have  fallen 
the  tree  should  be  sprayed  with  a  solution  of  five 
pounds  of  arsenate  of  lead  dissolved  in  fifty  gallons 
of  water. 


Fruit  187 

Apples  placed  on  open  shelves  in  a  cool,  dark  attic 
that  is  airy  will  keep  longer  than  if  placed  in  the 
average  cellar,  which  often  is  too  damp.  Packed 
in  clean,  dry  straw  so  they  will  not  touch  is  also 
another  excellent  method  for  preserving  them. 

Young  apple  trees  should  be  well  pruned  when 
planted,  cutting  back  nearly  a  third  of  each  branch. 
Pruning  is  a  matter  of  great  importance  to  young 
trees,  and  the  trees  will  never  do  so  well  if  they  are 
not  pruned  when  first  set  out. 

The  ground  under  the  apple  trees  should  be  kept 
free  from  weeds  and  grass.  The  soil  should  be  cul- 
tivated frequently  for  at  least  four  years  after  plant- 
ing the  trees  and  cultivation  twice  a  year  should  be 
given  after  that. 

A  mulch  of  leaves  over  the  ground  around  the  apple 
trees  during  the  winter  will  be  very  beneficial.  In 
the  spring  these  leaves  should  be  worked  into  the 
soil  when  cultivating. 

Apple  trees  should  be  gone  over  carefully  in  the 
spring  for  grubworms.  The  ground  close  to  the 
tree  trunk  should  be  dug  up  for  five  or  six  inches 
and  search  made  for  the  worm  and  its  larvae. 
Small  holes  will  be  detected  where  the  worms  have 
gone  into  the  wood,  and  they  can  be  removed  by 


1 88  Fruit 

means  of  a  piece  of  wire  or  a  knife,  though  in  using 
a  knife  care  should  be  taken  not  to  scrape  the 
trees  badly. 

An  excellent  fertilizer  for  the  apple  trees  consists 
of  five  or  six  shovels  of  compost  mixed  with  two 
pounds  of  muriate  of  potash.  This  quantity  is 
sufficient  for  one  tree. 

When  apple  trees  are  planted  in  the  spring,  es- 
pecially on  light  soils,  the  ground  should  be  kept 
moist  all  the  time.  Mulching  the  surface  with 
manure  will  help  to  conserve  moisture  and,  if  rains 
are  not  frequent,  heavy  drenching  should  be  in- 
dulged in. 

The  top  roots  of  apple  trees  should  be  not  more  than 
five  inches  under  the  surface.  It  is  essential  that 
the  roots  be  not  planted  too  deep.  The  soil  should 
be  firmly  packed  around  the  tree  after  planting 
and  it  should  be  a  little  higher  around  the  base  of 
the  tree  so  that  water  will  not  stand  in  a  stagnant 
pool. 

Young  apple  trees  should  always  be  staked  when 
set  in  the  ground,  just  as  older  ones  are.  The  limbs 
should  be  wrapped  at  a  convenient  place  for  tying 
a  strong  string  or  small  rope,  the  rope  tied  around 
the  wrapping,  which  may  be  of  leather  (pieces  of 


Fruit  189 

old  shoe  leather  will  answer)  or  of  heavy  cloth,  and 
the  other  end  of  the  rope  carried  to  a  stake  driven 
in  the  ground  several  feet  from  the  tree.  Four 
stakes  and  four  ropes  will  be  sufficient  for  the 
average  tree,  but  an  exceptionally  heavy-topped 
tree,  which  is  more  likely  to  be  blown  over  by  a 
strong  wind,  should  have  five  or  six. 

Bitter  rot  and  brown  rot  on  apple  trees  should  be 
sprayed  with  a  mixture  of  ammoniacal  copper 
carbonate  and  potassium  sulphide,  half  an  ounce 
to  a  gallon  of  water. 

An  insecticide  consisting  of  a  pound  of  caustic 
soap,  ten  ounces  of  soft  soap,  three-fourths  of  a 
pound  of  carbonate  of  potash,  and  ten  gallons  of 
water  will  be  found  very  effective  as  a  spray  for 
blight.  Leather  gloves  should  be  worn  when 
handling  this  spray  as  it  is  injurious  to  the  skin. 
This  is  a  very  strong  spray  and  should  not  be  used 
when  the  trees  are  in  blossom  or  bearing  fruit. 

APRICOTS 

Spring  is  the  best  time  to  set  out  apricot  trees.  The 
ground  should  be  well  manured  before  setting  out 
the  trees  and  the  soil  made  quite  heavy.  A  good 
garden  loam  will  be  very  advisable. 


190  Fruit 

Apricots  should  not  have  the  most  sunny  location 
in  the  orchard,  otherwise  the  blossoms  will  come  too 
early  and  be  nipped  off  by  frost.  The  trees  should 
be  planted  in  a  location  where  they  will  be  shaded 
from  the  morning  sun,  preferably  with  a  northern 
exposure. 

Year-old  apricot  trees  are  preferable  to  older  ones. 
The  trees  should  be  well  pruned  when  set  out  and 
should  be  pruned  regularly  each  year,  but  care 
should  be  taken  not  to  cut  the  fruit  buds.  A  little 
pruning  goes  a  long  way. 

An  application  of  ground  bone-meal  should  be 
made  around  the  apricot  trees  in  the  fall  and  a  couple 
of  weeks  later  potash  should  be  applied.  Nitro- 
genous fertilizers  are  not  advisable.  The  trees 
are  grown  for  fruit,  not  for  foliage. 

Apricots  bear  early  and  abundantly  on  short  spur- 
like  growths  much  more  than  on  the  new  annual 
wood  of  the  tree,  so  that  after  bearing  age  is  at- 
tained little  annual  pruning  is  necessary  though  all 
dead  or  interfering  limbs  should  be  removed. 

CHERRIES 

A  large  stuffed  owl  will  often  prove  to  be  a  most 
effective  scarecrow  for  keeping  the  robins  out  of  the 


Fruit  191 

cherry  free.    If  its  position  is  changed  every  night, 
it  will  seem  more  realistic  to  the  birds. 

Cherry  trees  do  not  require  as  much  pruning  as 
other  fruit-bearing  trees.  Merely  cut  out  dead, 
broken,  or  "crossed"  limbs. 

Self -boiled  lime  sulphur  is  a  safe  summer  spray 
for  the  cherry  trees  as  there  is  danger  of  burning  if 
a  commercial  solution  is  used. 

The  fruit  of  cherries,  as  a  rule,  is  found  on  the  old 
wood. 

Sweet  cherries  need  much  more  severe  pruning 
than  the  sour  cherries,  and  sweet  cherries  have  a 
tendency  to  divide  into  shoots  of  nearly  equal 
growth  and  thus  form  bad  crotches  which  split 
easily,  so  great  care  must  be  exercised  in  the 
pruning. 

Cherries  require  a  well-drained,  fairly  deep  loam. 
They  will  not  thrive  on  dry,  gravelly  soil.  A  south- 
ern exposure  is  best  to  protect  the  young  buds  from 
extreme  cold  in  the  early  spring. 

In  the  very  early  spring  there  should  be  applied  to 
each  cherry  tree  a  fertilizer  composed  of  one  part 
nitrate  of  soda,  two  parts  of  superphosphate,  and 


192  Fruit 

three  parts  of  kainite.    From  two  to  three  pounds 
of  this  mixture  should  be  applied  to  each  tree. 

About  the  most  troublesome  enemy  the  cherry  tree 
has  is  the  cherry  moth.  It  enters  the  fruit  just  as 
it  is  fertilized  and  remains  there  ten  days  or  two 
weeks  and  causes  the  fruit  to  fall.  It  is  a  light 
brown  color  and  has  a  dark  band  on  the  body  and 
white  edges  on  the  wings.  It  appears  to  be  stand- 
ing on  its  head  when  sucking  the  fruit.  All  fallen 
fruit  should  be  burned.  It  is  dangerous  to  apply 
any  poisonous  spray  or  the  fruit  will  be  harmed. 
The  eggs  are  often  laid  in  the  summer  and  not 
hatched  until  the  following  spring,  and  sprays  may 
safely  be  applied  in  the  fall.  Lime-sulphur  is  safe 
and  advisable. 

The  cherry  orchard  should  be  elevated,  as  free  cir- 
culation of  air  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  fruit  from 
rotting.  A  low,  damp  place  will  not  produce  fruit. 

Cherry  trees  need  little  pruning  unless  the  limbs 
are  afflicted  with  some  disease.  They  should  be 
branched  low,  otherwise  they  will  attain  a  great 
height  and  the  fruit  will  be  difficult  to  pick.  The 
soil  should  not  be  too  rich  or  the  trees  will  crack  and 
burst. 


Fruit  193 

Cherry  trees  need  little  cultivation  after  the  first 
two  years.  The  grass  around  them  should  be  cut 
and  left  on  the  ground  to  make  humus.  When 
there  is  no  grass  growing  near  the  trees,  a  mulch  of 
leaves  or  grass  should  be  supplied. 

Cultivation  of  cherry  trees  should  not  be  deeper 
than  three  inches  or  there  will  be  great  danger  of 
injuring  the  roots. 

In  picking  cherries,  never  break  off  the  slender 
spurs  upon  which  the  fruit  is  borne.  To  do  so  will 
cause  a  decrease  in  the  quantity  of  fruit  of  at  least 
one-fourth. 

Potash  and  phosphate  should  be  applied  to  the 
cherry  trees  in  order  to  produce  large  and  luscious 
fruit.  Three  or  four  pounds  applied  to  the  tree 
once  a  year,  preferably  in  the  fall,  will  be  a  sufficient 
dose. 

FIGS 

The  fig  tree  is  another  fruit  tree  peculiarly 
adapted  for  a  warm  climate,  and  even  in  the  South 
it  should  be  protected  from  the  north  winds  by  being 
placed  in  a  location  having  a  protection  on  the 
north,  and  it  should  be  fully  exposed  to  the  sun 
throughout  the  day. 

13 


194  Fruit 

The  roots  of  fig  trees  should  not  be  permitted  to 
spread  at  will.  A  very  good  plan  is  to  make  an 
underground  wall  of  bricks  or  cement  for  confining 
the  roots  to  a  limited  space.  Rank  growth  will 
produce  poor  fruit. 

Fig  trees  should  have  a  well  drained  soil  and  plenty 
of  humus  should  be  supplied  them. 

Figs  should  be  picked  immediately  after  ripening. 
They  will  quickly  turn  sour  if  left  on  the  tree  and 
a  horde  of  insects  will  be  after  them.  Figs  for 
preserving  should  be  picked  just  before  they  are 
ready  to  eat.  Ripe  figs  will  not  last  more  than 
twenty-four  hours  after  ripening. 

In  pruning  fig  trees,  cut  off  about  two  inches  of 
new  shoots.  The  fruits  mature  principally  on 
wood  from  a  year  to  two  years  old.  The  branches 
should  not  be  permitted  to  overcrowd  one  another, 
one  shoot  for  every  four  or  five  inches  of  branch 
is  quite  enough. 

Mealy-bug  on  fig  trees  should  be  guarded  against 
by  brushing  the  branches  and  shoots  with  a  hard, 
stiff-bristled  brush,  dipped  in  kerosene  emulsion. 
When  canker  attacks  the  trees,  coat  all  wounds  with 
tar  as  a  preventive  of  infection. 


Fruit  195 

A  mouse  trap  is  a  very  convenient  thing  to  have 
setting  around  the  fig  tree,  for  mice  are  apt  to  steal 
out  and  enjoy  themselves  on  the  best  of  the  fruit 
unless  some  provision  is  made  for  trapping  them. 

MULBERRY 

The  mulberry  tree  is  easily  grown  in  ordinary 
garden  soil.  This  is  a  not  uncommon  tree  in  the 
far  South,  but  people  of  the  Northern  States  are 
denied  the  pleasure  of  this  delicious  little  fruit. 

Grass  growing  under  the  mulberry  trees  should  be 
kept  cut  close  to  the  ground  during  the  fruiting  season 
or  the  small  fruit  will  be  difficult  to  find  after  it 
has  dropped.  Mulberries  should  always  remain  on 
the  tree  until  thoroughly  ripened. 

The  mulberry  is  easily  propagated  by  cuttings, 
which  will  take  root  readily  when  planted  in  rather 
moist  soil  exposed  to  the  sun  for  the  sufficient 
amount  of  heat. 

In  pruning  the  mulberry  tree  remove  only  enough 
branches  to  prevent  the  tree  from  becoming  over- 
crowded with  shoots.  To  cut  back  to  four  or  five 
buds  will  be  sufficient.  To  prune  more  deeply 
than  this  will  result  in  a  loss  of  a  great  deal  of 
fruit. 


196  Fruit 

PEACHES 

When  the  "June  drop"  is  over  and  before  the 
pits  harden  is  the  right  time  to  thin  peaches  on 
trees  that  are  heavily  laden,  and  to  produce  fine 
large  peaches,  a  heavily  laden  tree  should  always 
be  thinned.  A  limb  should  not  be  permitted  to 
hang  downward  heavy  with  fruit  or  the  peaches 
will  be  small  and  not  very  luscious. 

Peach  pits,  plum  stones,  and  stones  of  other  fruit 
should  never  be  permitted  to  dry  out  thoroughly 
if  they  are  to  be  saved  for  seed.  They  should  be 
taken  from  very  ripe  fruit,  carefully  packed  in  a 
box  of  moist  soil,  and  kept  in  a  dark  place  until 
October,  the  natural  planting  time,  as  they  will 
then  have  all  winter  in  which  to  germinate  and 
sprout  ready  for  the  spring. 

Peaches  should  be  picked  when  they  are  mature 
and  before  they  begin  to  soften.  They  should  be 
handled  very  carefully  in  order  not  to  bruise  them 
if  they  are  to  be  kept  for  any  length  of  time. 

Spraying  for  peaches  affected  with  leaf-curl  and 
San  Jose  scale  should  be  done  in  the  spring  with 
lime  sulphur;  for  brown  rot,  scab,  leaf  spot,  and 
curculio,  just  after  the  blossoms  fall,  with  lime 


Fruit  197 

sulphur,  to  which  a  pound  of  at -senate  powder  has 
been  added,  and  again  two  weeks  afterward. 

When  a  peach  tree  has  brown  rot  all  mummies  left 
on  the  ground  should  be  carefully  gathered  and 
burned  to  prevent  the  spread  of  the  trouble. 

Commercial  lime  sulphur  is  likely  to  burn  the 
foliage  if  it  is  used  on  peach  trees  in  summer  and 
should  be  diluted  in  the  proportion  of  one  part 
water  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  parts  of  lime  sul- 
phur before  using. 

Examine  all  trees  carefully  before  planting  and 
if  there  are  black,  gall-like  growths  on  twigs  and 
branches  the  trees  have  black  knot.  These  knots 
should  be  cut  off  and  burned  during  the  cold  days, 
using  care  to  remove  several  inches  below  the 
affected  part. 

When  large  limbs  of  peach  trees  are  affected  with 
black  knot  it  may  be  well  to  try  spraying  with 
lime  sulphur  before  deciding  to  cut  them  off,  and 
then  painting  the  surface  with  several  coats  of 
good  lead  paint.  If  this  fails,  they  should  be 
removed  in  order  to  save  the  rest  of  the  tree.  This 
applies  also  to  other  fruit  trees,  such  as  plum  and 
cherry. 


198  Fruit 

Plant  lice  on  peach,  cherry,  and  plum  trees  should 
be  sprayed  with  a  solution  of  nicotine  sulphate,  add- 
ing about  three  pounds  of  soap  to  every  one 
hundred  gallons  of  nicotine  to  make  it  stick  better. 
After  the  leaves  curl  no  successful  treatment  is 
possible. 

Peach  trees  afflicted  with  the  peach  borer  should 
be  treated  by  first  cutting  out,  or  digging  out  with 
a  wire,  the  obnoxious  insects  and  spraying  with 
lime  sulphur.  This  should  be  done  in  October  and 
again  in  May  as  some  of  the  small  ones  may  have 
been  overlooked  in  the  fall.  In  cases  where  it  is 
practicable,  the  earth  may  be  mounded  up  about 
a  foot  high  around  the  trunks  in  June  and  re- 
moving it  in  September  as  a  protection.  There 
are  patented  protectors  to  be  bought  for  this 
purpose. 

In  pruning  peach  trees,  three  or  four  main 
branches  should  be  left  at  the  end  of  the  first 
season,  which  should  be  shortened  to  about  a  foot 
in  length  and  allowed  to  divide  into  three  or  four 
branches  during  the  next  season's  growth.  The 
more  rapid  the  growth  of  new  wood,  the  nearer  the 
tips  the  fruit  buds  will  be  found,  hence  it  is  a  mis- 
take to  prune  this  fruit  too  soon. 


Fruit  199 

To  thin  out  fruit  on  the  peach  tree,  cut  the  fruit- 
ing wood  out  instead  of  taking  off  the  peaches  or 
the  blossoms.  The  best  fruit  will  grow  nearest 
the  ground.  Trees  should  be  allowed  to  spread  out 
rather  than  to  grow  tall,  and  this  is  accomplished 
by  the  pruning. 

A  peach  is  best  when  fully  ripened  on  the  tree,  so 
that  it  is  just  ready  to  drop.  Peaches  picked  green 
are  not  fit  for  eating,  and  even  when  cooked  will 
lack  the  delicate  flavor  which  they  should  have. 

When  scale  attacks  the  peach  trees,  spray  with 
kerosene  emulsion,  making  the  application  with  a 
stiff  brush  so  as  to  remove  as  many  insects  as 
possible  at  the  time.  All  fallen  leaves  should  be 
burned. 

Peach  leaf  curl  causes  ugly  blisters  on  the  leaves 
and  curls  them  up  at  the  edges.  A  reliable  remedy 
has  not  yet  been  discovered,  but  the  location  has 
been  proven  to  be  of  importance.  Cold  winds 
have  been  found  to  coincide  with  this  trouble  and 
protection  should  be  given.  Spraying,  just  when 
the  leaf  buds  begin  to  open,  with  ammoniacal  solu- 
tion of  copper  carbonate  will  aid  by  rendering  the 
tree  immune  from  infection  by  wind-borne  spores 
from  neighboring  trees. 


2oo  Fruit 

PEARS 

Pears  will  grow  on  almost  any  soil  if  it  has  a  fairly 
good  drainage.  The  best  soil  is  a  clay  loam,  and 
an  abundance  of  warmth  and  sunshine  should  be 
supplied  for  the  finest  fruits.  Exposure  on  the 
north  and  east  will  go  far  toward  producing  early 
fruit. 

To  prevent  the  spread  of  pear  blight,  remove  the 
blighted  twigs  as  soon  as  they  appear  and  burn 
them,  first  having  sterilized  the  pruning  imple- 
ments. Sterilize  the  implements  again  after 
cutting  the  blighted  twigs  to  prevent  other  trees 
being  affected;  spray  with  lime  sulphate  as  is  done 
for  peach  trees  affected  with  leaf  curl,  etc.,  and  do 
not  fertilize  the  trees  too  heavily  with  nitrogenous 
fertilizer  or  barnyard  manure.  The  ranker  the 
growth  of  the  tree  the  worse  the  blight. 

Injury  to  the  bark  of  pear  trees  by  climbing  up 
on  them,  by  a  blow  from  a  cultivator,  or  by  break- 
ing the  twigs  and  branches  with  a  ladder  often 
causes  blight. 

Be  sure  to  have  late  and  early  bearers  among 
the  pear  trees.  Some  of  the  most  reliable  are  Le 
Conte,  Bartlett,  and  Russets. 


Fruit  201 

Slow  growth  favors  fruitfulness  in  pear  trees,  and 
the  pruning  process  should  consist  in  thinning  out 
the  top,  or  newer,  branches  to  permit  light  and  air 
to  get  at  the  lower  branches  of  the  tree  which 
should  never  be  removed  if  healthy. 

The  fall  of  the  year  is  the  best  season  for  planting 
pear  trees,  and  if  not  planted  until  spring  the  work 
should  be  done  before  growth  has  started.  The 
top  roots  of  the  trees  should  not  be  more  than  four 
inches  under  the  surface,  and  the  trees  should  be 
staked  to  prevent  a, strong  wind  blowing  them 
over. 

The  young  fruit  on  pear  trees  should  be  pruned 
tf  large,  luscious  pears  are  to  be  produced.  Fruits 
should  never  be  allowed  to  touch  each  other,  and 
the  early  fruit  should  be  gathered  before  it  is  quite 
ready  to  drop  and  ripened  off  the  tree  in  a  cool 
room  kept  at  a  uniform  temperature. 

In  storing  choice  pears,  do  not  let  them  touch 
one  another. 

Choice  fruit  can  be  protected  from  flies,  bugs,  etc., 
while  on  the  tree  by  placing  over  each  fruit  a  thin 
muslin  bag.  The  sun  can  shine  through  these 
bags,  and  the  fruit  will  not  be  deprived  of  the 
necessary  ripening  elements  though  protected. 


202  Fruit 

A  surface-soil  dressing  of  kainit  or  of  bisul- 
phide of  carbon  in  the  spring  will  prevent  attacks 
from  gnats,  sawflies,  and  several  other  insects.  All 
fruit  which  is  later  injured  should  be  burned  im- 
mediately before  the  pests  have  a  chance  to 
multiply. 

Certain  varieties  of  pears  are  subject  to  rot  at 
the  core  if  left  on  the  tree  until  ripe,  and  the  flavor 
is  seldom  as  good  in  pears  of  any  variety  which 
ripen  on  the  tree.  The  time  to  pick  pears  is  when 
they  begin  to  take  on  a  yellow  tinge. 

When  picking  pears  for  ripening  indoors,  wrap 
each  one  in  a  piece  of  thin,  soft  paper,  and  lay  away 
in  a  cool,  dark  drawer  on  a  piece  of  cotton.  The 
paper  will  keep  them  from  touching  and  will  ab- 
sorb moisture  which  would  otherwise  cause  them 
to  rot. 

PLUMS 

A  rich  clay  soil  is  best  suited  for  the  plum.  The 
ground  should  have  an  application  of  compost 
every  year,  and  cultivation  for  the  first  two  or 
three  years  should  be  regular  and  constant. 

Several  varieties  of  plums  planted  together  will 


Fruit  203 

insure  pollination  and  be  the  means  of  producing 
much  finer  fruit. 

To  let  the  chickens  have  the  run  of  the  plum 
orchard  will  be  very  helpful  in  getting  rid  of  insects 
which  attack  the  fruit.  Many  insects  bury  them- 
selves in  fallen  fruit  and  later  attack  fresh  fruit. 

A  plum  much  to  be  desired  for  making  jelly  is 
the  small  yellow  plum  grown  so  extensively  in  very 
warm  climates.  This  plum  is  very  acidulous,  hence 
the  jelly-making  quality.  In  many  parts  of  the 
country,  however,  it  is  not  known,  but  it  would  pay 
anyone  who  is  cultivating  plums  to  find  out  about 
it  and  plant  several  trees. 

Plum-tree  cuttings  are  easily  rooted  by  placing 
them  in  a  glass  jar  half  filled  with  sand,  and  enough 
water  to  cover  it  for  more  than  an  inch.  When  the 
roots  have  attained  a  good  strong  growth,  the  sand 
should  be  poured  into  the  center  of  a  pot  of  earth 
and  the  cutting  placed  therein.  This  will  give  the 
cutting  much  the  same  soil  condition  it  has  been 
having. 

When  the  green  fly  attacks  the  plum  trees,  spray 
with  a  diluted  solution  of  kerosene  emulsion  and 
cleanse  as  thoroughly  as  possible  with  the  fingers, 


204  Fruit 

though  this,  of  course,  is  impossible  where  a  num- 
ber of  trees  must  be  cared  for. 

Damsons,  or  damson  plums,  are  grown  in  the 
same  manner  as  plums,  and  any  method  of  treat- 
ment applied  to  one  will  work  effectively  for  the 
other. 


QUINCES 

The  quince  requires  j or  its  best  growth  a  moist,  rich 
soil,  though  not  over-rich.  If  it  gets  plenty  of 
water,  it  will  not  require  much  attention,  and  it 
lives  to  be  a  very  old  tree.  Liberal  cultivation, 
however,  will  be  rewarded. 

Cuttings  from  a  quince  tree  can  be  rooted  by  placing 
them  in  wet  sand,  later  transferring  sand  and  cuttings 
to  a  pot  for  a  year  or  two  before  setting  in  the  open 
ground.  The  fall  of  the  year  is  the  best  time  for 
removing  these  cuttings  from  the  main  branch,  and 
several  joints  should  be  buried  in  the  sand  for 
rooting  purposes. 

Quince  trees  should  not  be  set  closer  together  than 
ten  or  twelve  feet,  as  the  trees  are  usually  grown  in 
bush  form  in  order  to  produce  the  greatest  quantity 
of  fruit. 


Fruit  205 

Quince  trees  should  be  set  out  in  the  spring  and  the 
ground  should  be  well  mulched  with  leaves  or 
grass.  Borers  should  be  searched  for  at  the  time 
of  setting  the  trees  out,  in  order  that  they  may  not 
get  a  start  on  the  young  trees  before  they  are 
detected. 

Nitrate  of  soda  and  bonemeal  in  equal  quantities 
dug  into  the  earth  around  the  quince  trees  will 
prove  to  be  very  beneficial. 

MISCELLANEOUS 

When  sugar  is  too  high  priced  to  preserve  fruit, 
then  dry  it.  Dried  fruit  is  very  satisfactory  in  the 
dead  of  winter  and  can  be  utilized  for  pies  and 
other  dishes  as  well  as  any  preserved  fruit.  The 
late  fruit  can  be  dried  effectively  by  placing  it  on 
the  radiators  part  of  the  time  though  the  sun's 
rays  should  do  some  of  the  drying. 

There  are  orchards  dying  from  lack  of  air. 
The  surface  soil  is  so  hard  and  compact  that  the 
roots  are  smothered.  Remember  that  your  trees 
need  to  breathe  as  well  as  the  smaller  plants,  or 
you. 

If  whitewash  is  applied  to  the  trunks  of  old  trees 
to  prevent  injurious  insects  from  hibernating,  it  is 


206  Fruit 

a  good  plan  to  remove  all  the  old  rough  bark  first. 
A  rough  rasp  or  file  is  a  good  instrument  to  use. 

Large  vegetables  should  not  be  planted  near  a 
tree.  Give  the  tree  a  chance.  Orchards  should 
not  be  plowed  deeper  than  three  or  four  inches 
or  the  young  roots  will  be  destroyed. 

Before  deep  snow  comes  look  at  the  sawdust 
piles  at  the  root  of  the  tree  and  see  where  the 
borers  have  been  at  work.  This  is  the  time  to  go 
after  them  with  a  knife  and  a  wire. 

In  the  fall  is  the  time  to  take  scions  for  the  next 
season's  grafting.  Take  them  from  the  tips  of  the 
limbs  that  made  a  good  growth  during  the  past 
summer  and  bury  them  in  sand  or  earth  in  the 
cellar  where  they  will  be  cool  and  moist  but  not 
wet. 

Don't  experiment  on  everything  an  agent  has  to 
sell  for  trees.  Have  products  analyzed  before  you 
take  a  chance  with  your  fruit.  There  are  good 
standard  remedies  for  most  insects  and  diseases 
which  already  have  been  tried  out. 

Ground  bone  is  excellent  for  fruit  trees.  Four 
hundred  pounds  to  the  acre  is  what  one  very 


Fruit  207 

successful  fruit  grower  has  recommended;  one  tree 
will  require  very  little. 

When  the  strongest  limbs  all  grow  in  one  direc- 
tion, making  the  tree  one-sided,  they  should  be 
pinched  back  and  thus  give  the  trees  a  start,  by 
encouraging  other  limbs  to  grow  on  the  other  side. 
Judgment  should  always  be  used  in  pruning. 

Harrow  the  orchards  after  the  rains  and  before 
a  hard  crust  forms  if  you  would  get  the  best  results. 

Winter  pruning  tends  to  produce  wood,  while 
summer  pruning  has  a  tendency  to  promote  fruit- 
bud  formation.  Plants  cut  in  the  summer  have 
power  to  adjust  themselves,  while  plants  which  are 
pruned  in  the  winter  have  expended  all  their  energy. 
Wounds  made  in  the  summer  heal  rapidly. 

Fruit  trees  should  not  be  set  too  close  together  for 
two  very  good  reasons,  i.  e.,  the  roots  will  not  re- 
ceive the  proper  amount  of  nourishment  and  in- 
sects can  more  easily  spread. 

TABLE  DENOTING  THE  DISTANCE   AT  WHICH  FRUIT 
TREES  SHOULD  BE  SET 

Apples  (dwarf  size)  10  feet  each  way 

Apples   (standard  size)         25  to  35    " 


208  Fruit 

TABLE  DENOTING  THE  DISTANCE  AT  WHICH  FRUIT 

TREES  SHOULD  BE  SET  (Continued) 

Apricots  1 6  to  1 8  feet  each  way 

Blackberries  6  "    7    "      "  " 

Cherries  16  "  20    "      "  " 

Currants  3  "     4    "       "  " 

Gooseberries  3  "    4    "      "  " 

Grapes  8  "  12    "      "  " 

Nectarines  16  "  18    "       "  " 

Peaches  16  "  20    "      "  " 

Pears  (dwarf  size)  10    "      "  " 

Pears  (standard  size)  16  "  20    "       "  " 

Plums  16  "  20    "       "  " 

Quinces  16  "  18    "       "  " 

Raspberries 


<« 


SMALL  FRUITS 
BLACKBERRIES  AND  RASPBERRIES 

Blackberries  and  raspberries  require  a  rather  damp 
soil  in  order  to  produce  the  finest  berries.  While 
the  soil  need  not  necessarily  be  very  rich,  it  should 
not  be  lacking  in  fertilization  if  large  berries  are 
desired.  Good  drainage  should  be  supplied. 

Manure  should  be  applied  to  the  blackberry  and 
raspberry  patches  in  the  fall  and  should  be  worked 
into  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  two  feet.  During  dry 
weather  the  ground  should  be  kept  loose  by  fre- 
quent cultivation. 

Raspberries  and  blackberries  require  practically 
the  same  treatment,  hence  they  are  nearly  always 
grouped  together  and  treated  as  one  fruit. 

Blackberries  are  rampant  growers  and  require 
plenty  of  room.  They  also  require  careful  pinching 
and  pruning  to  secure  the  best  results.  The  young 
shoots  should  be  pruned  when  they  are  from  three 
to  four  feet  long. 

i*  209 


210  Small  Fruits 

In  severe  climates  it  is  best  to  cover  the  blackberry 
and  raspberry  bushes  to  protect  them  from  freezing. 
In  warm  climates  they  will  need  no  winter  care  as 
only  very  old  and  well-ripened  wood  will  be  af- 
fected by  the  cold. 

A  raspberry  patch  ceases  to  be  profitable  after 
about  four  years  and  a  rotation  should  be  practised. 

Raspberries  should  be  planted  in  the  spring  when 
the  soil  can  readily  be  worked. 

Strong  young  plants  are  more  satisfactory  than 
older  plants  and  should  be  set  in  rows  four  feet 
apart  and  the  plants  be  set  four  feet  from  each 
other  in  the  row. 

Raspberries  and  blackberries  both  bear  fruit  on 
short  shoots  which  have  grown  from  canes  of  the 
previous  year. 

Crown  gall  is  a  bacterial  disease  which  causes 
tumor-like  growths  on  the  raspberry  plants. 
Diseased  plants  should  be  pulled  up  and  destroyed 
before  the  disease  can  spread  to  the  other  plants 
as  there  is  no  known  remedy. 

Cultivation  of  the  raspberry  and  the  blackberry 
should  begin  early  in  the  spring  and  be  continued 


Small  Fruits  211 

from  one  to  two  weeks  apart  throughout  the  season 
in  order  to  provide  a  dust  mulch. 

All  canes  that  have  fruited  should  be  cut  off  in  the 
fall.  All  winter -killed  canes  should  be  pruned  in 
the  spring,  and  the  remaining  canes  shortened  to 
three  or  four  feet,  and  at  least  a  third  of  each  long 
side-shoot  cut  off. 

When  the  new  growth  of  raspberries  bends  over 
on  the  ground  it  is  time  to  "tip"  the  canes.  Each 
tip  should  be  buried  a  few  inches  in  the  ground  and 
held  in  place  with  a  peg,  a  stone,  or  a  clump  of  dirt. 
In  the  spring  the  tips  will  have  roots  and  the  new 
plants  can  be  severed  from  the  old. 

All  raspberry  and  blackberry  canes  should  be 
cut  off  and  burned  immediately  after  fruiting. 

The  tips  of  new  canes  should  be  nipped  off  when 
they  are  four  feet  high. 

All  canes  should  be  cut  back  to  about  three  feet 
in  the  spring. 

Only  five  or  six  of  the  strongest  canes  should  be 
left  to  each  raspberry. 

Raspberries  require  a  rich  loam. 


212  Small  Fruits 

All  suckers  should  be  removed  not  later  than  the 
first  of  June. 

Supports  enable  the  berries  to  be  picked  easily 
and  prevent  sand  getting  into  the  fruit. 

Purple  cane  and  black-cap  raspberries  may  be  forced 
for  laterals  but  this  treatment  is  severe  for  the  red 
raspberry  and  they  are  likely  to  succumb  to  the 
cold  if  this  is  done. 

The  blackberry  is  a  native  of  the  shady,  damp 
woods,  and  will  not  thrive  on  hot,  dry  plains. 

The  land  intended  for  blackberries  should  pre- 
viously to  planting  have  been  cultivated  a  couple 
of  years,  at  least,  or  the  blackberries  will  be  stubby 
and  not  very  luscious. 

The  blackberry  requires  careful  and  constant  prun- 
ing. The  canes  should  be  permitted  to  grow  un- 
disturbed the  first  year.  The  second  year  the 
canes  should  be  cut  off  when  from  two  to  three 
feet  long.  They  will  then  start  to  branch. 

If  the  blackberry  bushes  are  not  thriving,  try 
snipping  off  the  tips  to  prevent  the  canes  growing 
too  long,  and  re-fertilize. 

Ordinarily  four  to  six  canes  are  all  that  a  black- 
berry bush  can  support  with  ease  and  comfort;  all 


Small  Fruits  213 

the  others  should  be  cut  off  or  they  will  weaken  the 
productiveness  of  the  plant. 

Blackberries  are  about  the  cheapest  dessert,  re- 
quiring no  cream,  which  would  really  spoil  the 
berry,  and  very  little  sugar. 

After  blackberries  have  fruited,  the  canes  which 
have  borne  fruit  should  be  cut  off  and  burned,  for 
their  mission  has  been  fulfilled  and  the  space  which 
they  occupy  is  needed  for  the  new  canes. 

Five  to  seven  canes  should  be  left  for  the  next 
year's  fruit  when  pruning  blackberries. 

All  broken  and  diseased  canes  should  be  taken 
from  the  blackberry  bushes  in  the  spring  just  after 
growth  starts  and  the  tips  of  all  branches  which 
have  been  injured  by  the  cold  should  be  removed. 

A  site  for  the  blackberry  vines  is  of  the  utmost 
importance,  and  the  moisture  of  the  soil  is  an  im- 
portant consideration.  The  best  land  is  a  deep, 
fine,  sandy  loam  with  a  large  supply  of  humus  and 
abundant  moisture  at  the  ripening  season.  The 
berries  will  then  be  large  and  luscious.  If  water 
stands  on  the  ground  surrounding  them  during  the 
winter  the  plants  are  often  killed. 


214  Small  Fruits 

Tender  varieties  of  blackberries  may  be  bent  down 
along  the  row  and  covered  with  an  earthen  blanket 
for  winter  protection  in  severe  climates.  If  a 
little  soil  is  removed  from  one  side  of  the  roots, 
canes  will  bend  down  easier;  if  necessary  they  can 
be  held  in  place  with  wooden  pegs. 

Blackberry  bushes  that  are  infected  with  red-rust 
should  be  dug  out  and  burned.  This  is  the  only 
way  to  treat  this  dangerous  fungous  disease. 

Blackberries,  red  raspberries,  and  currants  may 
be  set  in  the  fall  and  a  shovelful  of  manure  banked 
around  each  plant  to  protect  them  from  the  cold. 
If  manure  cannot  be  procured,  the  soil  may  be 
banked  up  around  the  plants  when  set,  and  then 
levelled  off  in  the  spring.  Manure  is  far  more  heat- 
ing than  plain  earth,  however,  and  is  well  worth  the 
trouble  of  procuring. 

Too  much  hot  sun  causes  blackberries,  which  have 
been  picked,  to  turn  a  very  undesirable  reddish 
shade.  They  should  be  put  in  the  shade  as  soon 
as  possible  after  picking  and  kept  cool. 

There  are  one  hundred  and  forty  different 
varieties  of  blackberries  recognized  now.  They  are 
divided  into  three  classes:  the  hardy,  the  half 
hardy,  and  the  tender.  The  hardy  varieties  should 


Small  Fruits  215 

be  able  to  stand  a  temperature  of  thirty  degrees 
Fahrenheit  and  should  not  be  affected  by  a  sudden 
change  of  temperature. 

BLUEBERRIES 

Blueberries  are  far  more  delicious  than  the 
blackberry  or  dewberry,  and  preferred  by  many 
people  to  the  strawberry  or  raspberry.  Now  that 
so  much  is  known  with  regard  to  their  demands 
in  cultivation,  it  is  becoming  more  and  more  a 
cultivated  plant.  Blueberry  bushes  thrive  best  in 
soils  that  are  too  acid  for  other  plants.  Leaf  peat  and 
sand  form  an  excellent  combination. 

The  blueberry  plant  has  on  its  roots  a  very  minute 
fungus  which  cannot  be  detected  without  the  aid 
of  a  microscope.  This  fungus  furnishes  nitrogen- 
ous food  to  the  plant  which  nourishes  it  and  makes 
it  thrive. 

Blueberry  bushes  under  favorable  conditions 
will  live  for  fifty  years.  Cold  stimulates  the  growth 
of  the  plant  and  stems  that  are  not  exposed  to  the 
cold  will  be  dormant  when  spring  comes  whether 
they  are  nourished  or  not. 

Blueberries  require  cross  pollination.  Berries 
self-pollinated  or  pollinated  from  other  pollen 


216  Small  Fruits 

on  the  same  bush  will  be  very  inferior  in  size  and 
flavor  if  they  mature  at  all. 

Blueberries  picked  from  a  number  of  bushes  and 
mixed  will  have  afar  more  delicious  flavor  than  the 
berries  from  one  bush  only.  The  flavor  varies 
in  berries  from  different  bushes,  some  being  more 
acid  than  others. 

CURRANTS  AND  GOOSEBERRIES 

Currants  and  gooseberries  are  two  of  the  hardiest 
of  fruits  and  yield  excellent  results  for  the  time 
given  them,  yet  they  are  not  cultivated  very  ex- 
tensively. Currants  stand  at  the  head  of  most 
fruits  as  a  jelly  foundation. 

In  the  case  of  both  currants  and  gooseberries  the 
fruits  are  produced  on  both  old  and  new  wood;  the 
fruit  appears  as  auxiliary  growths  from  the  shoot 
itself  and  wood  three  years  or  more  of  age  is  un- 
profitable and  should  be  cut  away. 

Currants  and  gooseberries  can  remain  on  the 
bushes  a  much  longer  time  than  most  fruits  without 
deteriorating — even  as  long  as  three  weeks. 

Currants  and  gooseberries  should  be  pruned  in  the 
spring.  Two  or  three  main  branches  of  the  cur- 


Small  Fruits  217 

rant  should  be  removed  each  time  and  three  or  four 
of  the  gooseberry.  All  canes  bent  to  or  near  the 
ground  should  be  removed. 

Currants  and  gooseberries  root  near  the  surface, 
therefore  deep  plowing  or  cultivating  is  unwise  in 
their  case. 

As  soon  as  the  leaves  start  on  currant  and  goose- 
berry bushes,  all  sickly  looking  or  non-starting  canes 
should  be  cut  out  and  burned  promptly.  Borers 
are  probably  within  and  in  this  way  they  can  be  kept 
in  check  and  not  allowed  to  get  at  bushes  that  are 
not  already  infected. 

The  most  serious  pest  of  both  the  currant  and  the 
gooseberry  is  the  currant-worm.  If  it  is  sprayed 
at  the  first  appearance  with  hellebore  it  can  be 
readily  controlled.  Watch  for  the  second  brood. 

Before  severe  weather  sets  in,  the  currant  branches 
should  be  drawn  together  and  tied  to  prevent  their 
being  broken  by  the  winter's  snow  or  sleet. 

The  English  varieties  of  gooseberries  are  more 
highly  susceptible  to  mildew  than  our  native  ber- 
ries, but  where  they  can  be  grown  successfully 
they  are  highly  appreciated  on  account  of  their 
coloring. 


218  Small  Fruits 

Gooseberries  should  be  thoroughly  ripe  in  order  to 
be  appreciated. 

A  deep,  rich,  moist  soil  is  required  to  produce  a 
fine  crop  of  gooseberries  and  currants,  though  cur- 
rants can  be  grown  on  almost  any  kind  of  land. 

Many  experienced  growers  prefer  to  plant  the 
gooseberry  in  the  field  or  orchard  where  it  can 
have  partial  shade,  and  this  is  to  be  recommended 
if  the  grower  is  willing  to  give  thorough  cultivation 
to  both  berries  and  trees. 

Deep  fall  plowing  is  recommended  for  currants 
in  order  to  store  up  all  the  rainfall  during  the  winter 
and  spring.  The  planting  should  be  as  early  in 
the  spring  as  possible,  and  the  bushes  should  be 
set  five  feet  apart  each  way.  One  year  old  plants 
from  cuttings  should  be  used. 

New  shoots  on  currants  and  gooseberries  should 
be  nipped  back  in  the  summer  to  induce  branching. 

DEWBERRIES 

Dewberries  are  more  satisfactory  if  allowed  to 
ramble  on  the  ground  instead  of  being  trained  on 
a  trellis  or  other  support. 


Small  Fruits  219 

To  plant  dewberries  in  hills,  five  by  five  is  the 
most  satisfactory  method.  Clean  and  thorough 
cultivation  is  necessary. 

The  same  soil  conditions  that  prove  satisfactory 
for  blackberries  and  raspberries  will  answer  for  dew- 
berries.  The  cultivation  is  practically  the  same, 
the  dewberry  differing  from  the  blackberry  prin- 
cipally in  its  trailing  habit.  The  fruit  comes  earlier 
and  is  often  called  early  blackberries. 

GOOSEBERRIES 

(See  "Currants  and  Gooseberries.") 

GRAPES 

Grape  cuttings  can  be  taken  from  the  largest  and 
best  developed  vines  of  the  previous  season's 
growth.  Each  cutting  should  have  at  least  two 
buds  and  should  be  about  eight  inches  in  length. 
Cuttings  should  be  made  as  early  as  possible  and 
packed  in  the  cellar  in  moss  or  damp  sand  until 
planting  time  in  the  spring. 

To  prevent  rot,  wormy  grapes,  and  other  troubles, 
spray  the  grapevines  with  Bordeaux  arsenate  of 
lead  mixture,  the  first  application  soon  after  the 


220  Small  Fruits 

fruit  sets,  the  second  ten  days  later,  and  the  third 
from  ten  days  to  two  weeks  after  the  second  spray- 
ing. 

Paper  bags  placed  on  bunches  of  grapes,  when 
the  grapes  are  the  size  of  shot,  and  left  there  until 
harvest  time  will  prevent  wasps,  yellow  jackets,  and 
birds  from  puncturing  the  grapes.  B  ees  will  not  feast 
on  the  juices  until  punctures  are  made. 

Do  not  fail  to  utilize  all  available  fence  space, 
summer  houses,  etc.,  for  your  grapevines.  Vines 
not  only  beautify  but  provide  food  as  well. 

Grapevines  will  not  be  harmed  by  planting  other 
small  fruit,  etc.,  among  them,  such  as  currants, 
strawberries,  small  vegetables,  and  flowers. 

The  last  of  February  or  the  first  of  March  is  the 
best  season  for  pruning  grapevines  in  the  Northern 
States,  while  the  work  may  be  done  in  the  South  a 
month  earlier. 

Grapes  grow  'upon  shoots  which  grew  the  year 
before.  Usually  each  bud  left  on  canes  a  year  old 
will  produce  a  shoot. 

The  shoots  which  come  from  short-jointed  canes 
are  the  fruit-bearers. 


Small  Fruits  221 

There  is  always  a  reason  for  poor  fruit  and  de- 
jected looking  vines.  Find  out  what  it  is. 

>v 

Grapes  do  not  need  pruning  the  first  year,  except 
to  remove  all  but  two  or  three  of  the  strongest 
shoots.  The  second  season  all  of  the  canes  but  one 
should  be  removed.  The  third  year  the  vine  is 
pruned  for  form. 

That  part  of  the  vine  which  is  to  bear  fruit  is  best 
located  near  the  root. 

When  vines  are  attacked  by  insects  that  do  not 
yield  to  spraying,  they  should  be  heavily  pruned. 

Vines  growing  on  heavy  rich  soil  do  not  need  as 
much  pruning  as  those  growing  on  light  or  sandy 
soil. 

As  a  rule  the  more  pruning  the  more  fruit. 

When  only  a  few  vines  are  to  be  sprayed  cover 
the  bunches  of  grapes  beforehand  and  they  will  not 
be  harmed  by  the  spray  should  it  be  harmful  to 
the  fruit.  When  the  nature  of  the  spray  is  not 
known,  some  protection  should  always  be  used. 
Light-weight  tin  cans  will  serve  well  when  the 
right  size  is  used. 


222  Small  Fruits 

When  a  thaw  comes  the  grapevines  should  be 
looked  after,  and  all  posts  should  be  straightened, 
wires  tightened,  vines  tied  up,  and  refuse  burned. 

Sixty  buds  on  the  bearing  wood  of  a  grapevine 
are  the  maximum  usually  for  a  strong  healthy  vine. 
When  vines  are  small  and  weak  they  should  not 
be  allowed  to  grow  to  maturity  many  bunches  of 
grapes.  Sixty  buds  will  produce  one  hundred  and 
fifty  bunches  of  grapes. 

To  prevent  rot,  wormy  grapes,  and  other 
troubles,  such  as  insects,  spray  the  grapevine  with 
Bordeaux  arsenate  of  lead  mixture  soon  after  the 
fruit  sets,  repeating  the  operation  about  ten  days 
later  and  still  again  two  weeks  after  the  second 
spraying. 

To  preserve  grapes  for  winter  use,  seal  the  ends  of 
the  stems  with  paraffin  or  sealing  wax  and  hang 
them  in  a  dark  cellar  or  in  any  room  where  the  air 
is  not  dry  enough  to  wither  them,  nor  cold  enough 
to  freeze  them.  Fasten  each  bunch  separately  so 
it  will  not  touch  another  bunch. 

A  mixture  of  the  dried  blood  of  cattle  and  crushed 
bonemeal  is  excellent  for  the  grapevines,  strawberries, 
and  other  vines. 


Small  Fruits  223 

If  you  want  a  vine  vocabulary  be  sure  to  memo- 
rize the  following  terms: 

A  shoot  is  a  growth  only  a  few  months  old. 
A  cane  is  a  shoot  from  one  to  two  years  old. 
An  arm  is  a  cane  more  than  two  years  old. 

A  sucker  is  a  growth  starting  from  the  root  or 
trunk  below  the  ground. 

A  branch  connects  the  arms  with  the  trunk. 

The  trunk  is  that  part  of  the  vine  between  the 
roots  and  the  branches.  It  is  sometimes  called 
the  stem. 

A  spur  is  a  cane  which  has  been  pruned  to  less 
than  five  buds. 

A  water  sprout  or  "bull  cane"  starts  above  the 
ground  from  wood  more  than  a  year  old. 

Laterals  are  shoots  which  start  from  shoots. 


LOGANBERRIES 

Loganberries  require  an  abundance  of  moisture 
if  they  are  to  give  good  results.  Where  the  soil 
and  climatic  conditions  are  favorable  they  will 


224  Small  Fruits 

produce  berries  two  inches  in  length.  They 
should  be  cultivated  in  the  same  way  that  black- 
berries are  cared  for,  and  should  be  supported  by 
a  trellis. 


RASPBERRIES 
(See  "Blackberries  and  Raspberries.") 

STRAWBERRIES 

Strawberries  thrive  best  on  a  rich  sandy  loam, 
though  they  can  be  grown  in  almost  any  soil. 
Plenty  of  moisture  and  thorough  draining  are 
necessary. 

Manure  should  be  applied  to  the  strawberry  bed  in 
the  fall  and  should  be  plowed  under  eight  or  ten 
inches.  A  second  plowing  should  be  given  in  the 
spring. 

Rows  for  strawberries  should  be  three  or  four  feet 
apart  and  plants  should  be  about  a  foot  and  a  half 
from  each  other. 

Set  out  only  the  best  varieties  of  strawberries. 
None  others  are  worth  the  time  spent  on  them. 


Small  Fruits  225 

//  there  are  different  grades  of  plants  among 
those  to  be  set  out,  alternate  the  good  with  the 
poor. 

Prune  all  runners  the  first  season  if  you  would 
produce  the  finest  fruit. 

Purchase  both  pistillate  and  staminate  vines  and 
alternate  in  planting.  This  insures  good  fertiliza- 
tion. 

Plants  should  be  set  out  toward  evening  in  moist 
soil  that  they  may  have  all  night  in  which  to  re- 
cuperate from  transplanting  before  the  sun's  rays 
fall  on  them. 

The  roots  of  plants  should  be  kept  in  a  pail  of 
water  until  ready  to  put  into  the  ground,  when 
they  should  be  planted  with  the  roots  spread 
out.  Never  crowd  the  roots. 

When  the  ground  freezes  the  first  time  for  the 
season,  mulch  well. 

The  spring  strawberry  bed  should  be  culti- 
vated regularly  and  often.  Keep  the  soil  loose  and 
mellow  and  let  no  weeds  get  a  start. 

The  hill  system  of  cultivating  strawberries  differs 
from  the  old  system,  in  that  no  runners  are  allowed 
to  flourish. 


226  Small  Fruits 

All  blossoms  should  be  picked  from  newly  set-out 
plants  that  are  for  spring  bearing.  All  the 
strength  should  go  into  the  plant  in  order  to 
produce  the  finest  fruit. 

Crowded  plants  mean  a  poor  crop.' 

The  strawberry  bed  should  be  mulched  early  that 
the  plants  may  get  a  good  start. 

Do  not  put  a  new  strawberry  bed  on  land  that 
has  been  in  sod  within  two  years,  or  there  may  be 
a  crop  of  white  grubs. 

Strawberry  mulch  should  be  three  or  four  inches 
deep  in  order  to  prevent  freezing. 

If  the  strawberry  bed  is  in  an  exposed  place,  where 
it  is  subject  to  heavy  winds,  place  boards,  poles,  or 
brush  on  the  mulch  to  hold  it  in  place.  This  is 
impractical,  of  course,  on  an  extremely  large  bed. 

A  full  crop  will  not  result  from  a  late  bed. 

In  picking  strawberries  there  should  be  two  pick- 
ers, one  on  each  side  to  save  stepping  over  the 
plants  and  injuring  them. 

Plants  more  than  a  year  old  do  not  as  a  rule  pro- 
duce a  large  yield.  Plants  more  than  two  years 
are  not  worth  cultivating. 


Small  Fruits  227 

The  worn-out  strawberry  bed  should  be  plowed  up 
for  some  late  vegetable  crop  as  soon  as  it  has 
fruited. 

Throw  all  surplus  mulch  into  the  aisles.  It 
retains  moisture. 

To  can  strawberries  so  that  they  will  not  lose  their 
shape,  place  them  in  jars  with  alternate  layers  of 
sugar;  keep  them  in  a  cool  place  overnight,  then 
put  them  into  a  hot  syrup  of  sugar  and  water,  let 
them  boil  up  gently,  put  into  cans,  and  seal. 

To  prevent  strawberries  and  raspberries  from  losing 
their  color  when  canned,  place  brown  paper  bags 
over  the  jars  when  setting  up. 

Hard-wood  ashes  used  in"  connection  with  well- 
rotted  stable  manure  make  an  excellent  fertilizer 
for  the  strawberry  bed.  Ashes  provide  potash  which 
is  much  appreciated  by  the  strawberry  plants. 

GENERAL 

All  the  small  fruits,  i.  e.,  berries,  require  a  well- 
drained  loamy  soil.  Heavy  clay  or  adobe  soil 
will  grow  these  fruits,  but  the  best  results  are  ob- 
tained on  soils  that  are  more  open  and  porous. 


228  Small  Fruits 

New  land  should  not  be  planted  to  small  fruits. 
At  least  two  years  should  be  allowed  to  subdue  the 
land,  meanwhile  growing  such  crops  as  will  require 
deep  cultivation  and  much  moisture.  The  land 
should  then  be  plowed  to  a  depth  of  at  least  ten 
inches  and  cross-plowed  in  the  spring  and  thor- 
oughly pulverized.  Poor  preparation  of  the  land 
is  often  the  cause  of  failure  to  produce  good  fruit. 

During  the  first  year  small  vegetables,  such  as 
cabbage  and  potatoes,  may  be  planted  among  the 
berries,  but  not  corn  or  other  grain.  The  second 
year,  and  thereafter,  the  berries  will  require  all 
the  space  themselves. 

See  what  pleasure  you  can  get  out  of  the  pro- 
duction of  new  forms  by  grafting  and  cross- 
pollination.  It  will  lend  a  new  zest  to  the  cultiva- 
tion of  berries  to  cross  them  and  experiment  in 
various  ways. 

Don't  spoil  fresh  berries  by  cooking  them.  The 
next  best  thing  to  eating  them  raw  is  to  preserve 
them  for  winter,  when  fresh  ones  cannot  be  pro- 
cured. 

If  a  heavy  load  of  snow  or  ice  comes  on  the  berry 
bushes  and  shrubbery,  go  around  and  knock  off  what 
you  can  with  a  pole.  It  may  save  them  from 


Small  Fruits  229 

breaking  down.    The  careful  culturist  keeps  an 
eye  on  his  fruit  all  the  time. 

Some  little  furrows  or  ditches  may  be  needed  to 
facilitate  drainage  in  the  berry  patch  in  the  winter, 
even  though  there  are  tile  drains.  When  ground 
is  frozen,  water  cannot  get  into  underground  drains. 

Here  are  two  methods  of  keeping  the  birds  away 
from  berries:  (i)  Get  some  pieces  of  bright  tin  and 
so  hang  them  that  they  will  flap  in  the  wind  against 
a  pole — lox  12  inches  is  a  good  size;  (2)  cover 
the  bushes  with  one-inch  fish  netting.  Scare- 
crows and  strings  often  fail,  but  fish  netting  is  sure 
and  not  at  all  expensive  for  small  areas. 

Keep  berries  in  a  cool  place  after  they  have  been 
picked,  and  spread  out  over  wide  area,  if  possible, 
in  order  to  let  the  air  circulate  through  them. 
Berries  will  keep  twice  as  long  if  they  are  thus  cared 
for. 

If  the  bones  from  the  table  are  soaked  in  water 
for  a  few  days  and  this  water  poured  around  the 
berry  vines,  the  vines  will  receive  a  great  deal  of 
nourishment. 


NUTS 
CHESTNUTS 

Chestnuts  do  not  require  much  attention.  Given 
a  light,  well-drained  soil,  and  plenty  of  sunlight, 
they  will  continue  to  grow  and  thrive  for  two 
or  three  generations.  Soil  that  will  not  produce 
other  fruits  may  be  used  profitably  in  growing 
chestnuts. 

Chestnut  trees  bear  fruit  when  from  five  to  ten 
years  old,  and  even  before  they  are  ready  to  bear 
they  make  splendid  shade  trees  for  the  home 
grounds.  Since  the  trees  grow  to  be  so  large,  it  is 
not  advisable  to  plant  more  than  one  in  a  small 
space. 

A  good  way  to  start  chestnut  trees  is  from  suckers 
rooted  in  pots.  By  putting  the  slips  in  pots  the 
tap  roots  can  be  controlled  and  the  young  trees 
can  gradually  be  brought  to  outdoor  life  by  setting 
the  pots  in  the  soil  out  of  doors  in  locations  where 

they  can  be  protected. 

230 


Nuts  231 

Nearly  all  nut  trees  require  a  very  rich,  friable  soil 
to  a  depth  of  several  feet  in  order  to  produce  fine 
large  nuts. 

WALNUTS 

English  walnut  trees  are  very  beautiful  with  their 
glossy,  green  leaves.  They  are  very  clean  and 
make  splendid  shade  trees.  Rich,  well-drained 
soil  is  best  suited  to  their  requirements,  and  when  the 
trees  are  once  started,  they  will  not  call  for  very 
much  attention. 

English  walnuts  should  be  planted  in  the  fall 
The  sprouts  will  not  grow  very  much  during  the 
first  two  or  three  years,  and  should  be  transplanted 
during  this  time,  before  they  have  begun  rapid 
growth. 

Many  walnut  trees  bear  as  much  as  eighteen  bushels 
of  nuts  each  year.  The  trees  should  not  be  set  too 
close  together,  forty  feet  not  being  too  much  space 
between  them.  This  space  can  be  utilized  for 
small  garden  crops  and  there  will  be  no  dis- 
advantage to  the  tree. 

The  late  winter  months  is  the  best  season  for  prun- 
ing walnut  trees,  just  before  the  sap  begins  to  rise. 


232  Nuts 

The  lower  branches  only  need  be  cut  off,  and  after 
the  trees  are  eight  or  ten  feet  high,  no  pruning  will 
be  necessary  except  to  cut  away  bad  limbs. 

English  walnuts  will  bear  within  five  or  six  years 
after  seed  are  planted,  but  trees  that  are  transplanted 
nearly  always  require  three  or  four  years  after 
transplanting,  regardless  of  the  true  age  of  the 
tree.  Trees  planted  in  groups  bear  earlier  than 
a  single  tree,  as  pollination  is  more  likely  to  take 
place  early. 

The  black  walnut  will  produce  finer  nuts  if  it 
stands  near  a  pool  or  stream  of  water,  as  the  roots 
want  a  great  deal  of  moisture.  It  usually  requires 
ten  years  from  the  planting  of  the  seed  before  it 
will  bear  nuts. 


TREES 

Before  planting  a  tree,  outline  the  surrounding 
area.  Note  carefully  the  proximity  of  other  trees, 
nearness  to  a  dwelling,  what  small  vegetables  are 
to  be  grown  near,  etc.  The  tree  is  planted  for  a 
long  period,  and  the  surface  immediately  surround- 
ing it  will  not  be  found  very  useful  owing  to  the 
lack  of  sunlight  caused  by  the  branches  of  the 
tree. 

The  fall  of  the  year  is  the  best  time  to  plant  trees 
and  large  bushes.  As  much  earth  as  is  possible 
should  be  left  clinging  to  the  roots,  and  the  hole  in 
which  the  tree  is  planted  should  be  half  full  of 
water  at  the  time  the  tree  is  set  in  it. 

When  the  bark  on  fruit  trees  has  become  hard 
it  should  be  softened  by  washing  it  with  a  solution 
of  strong  soapsuds,  or  concentrated  lye  dissolved 
in  water.  An  application  of  whitewash  is  excellent 
for  softening  the  bark  of  trees  and  for  keeping  insects 
away. 

233 


234  Trees 

When  watering  trees  or  plants  with  very  deep  roots, 
a  piece  of  pipe  an  inch  or  so  in  diameter  should  be 
driven  into  the  ground  near  the  roots  and  the 
water  poured  down  it. 

A  young  tree  should  always  be  planted  several 
inches  deeper  in  new  surroundings  than  it  has  stood 
in  its  former  position.  If  it  has  attained  a  growth 
of  more  than  six  feet,  it  should  be  generously 
pruned  before  taking  it  up.  To  prune  it  before 
taking  it  up  makes  it  easier  to  handle,  and  as  the 
tree  is  then  firmly  set  in  the  ground  it  is  not  so 
likely  to  be  pulled  to  a  crooked  position  in  the 
cutting. 

Train  the  fruit  trees  to  a  pretty  shape.  There 
must  be  some  pruning  and  it  might  as  well  be 
done  systematically. 

When  trees  have  been  out  of  the  ground  some  time 
before  transplanting,  the  roots  should  be  soaked  for 
a  day  and  a  night  in  water.  They  should  be  kept 
cool,  if  possible,  but  at  any  rate  should  not  be 
allowed  to  lie  in  the  sun. 


MISCELLANEOUS  HINTS 

In  planning  the  garden,  remember  that  there 
should  be  some  sort  of  safeguard  against  rabbits 
and  poultry.  A  tight  board  fence  will  accomplish 
this  and  will  also  serve  as  a  windbreak  for  the 
tender  vegetables.  A  wire  fence  of  close  mesh 
will  answer  if  it  is  put  up  carefully. 

To  place  the  garden  near  a  running  stream  may  be 
a  convenience  in  watering,  but  be  sure  that  this 
is  not  a  stream  that  overflows  during  the  growing 
season,  or  you  may  wake  up  some  morning  to  find 
your  carefully  planted  garden  flooded. 

Fresh  vegetables  from  the  home  garden  are  not 
subjected  to  exposure  on  the  markets  or  in  trans- 
portation and  are  not  liable  to  become  infected  in  any 
way.  Many  garden  products  lose  their  flavor  if 
not  used  within  a  few  hours  of  gathering. 

Practically  all  of  our  vegetables  consist  of  over 
eighty  per  cent,  water  and  some  have  almost  ninety- 

235 


236  Miscellaneous  Hints 

five  per  cent,  water.  The  quality  of  the  vegetable 
is  dependable  upon  this  supply  of  moisture,  there- 
fore when  moisture  is  denied  to  them  while  growing 
they  will  be  poor  in  quality  and  flavor,  as  well  as 
having  their  growth  stunted. 

Land  that  is  too  wet  for  crops  and  which  is  not 
easily  drained  should  be  plowed  during  a  very  dry 
period,  harrowed  thoroughly,  and  planted  with  seed 
to  redtop  (herd's  grass)  and  alsike  clover.  This 
will  entirely  change  the  quality  of  the  soil  and  the 
next  time  crops  are  planted  a  distinct  improvement 
will  be  noted. 

It  has  been  estimated  that  a  well-kept  garden  will 
yield  a  return  fifteen  times  greater  than  would  the  same 
area  devoted  to  general  farm  crops.  A  half -acre  of 
land  will  supply  at  least  a  hundred  dollars'  worth 
of  vegetables  during  the  season,  while  the  average 
return  for  farm  crops  is  less  than  one  tenth  of  this 
amount. 

In  laying  drain  do  not  make  the  mistake  of  put- 
ting down  tile  too  small  to  carry  off  the  water  when 
at  flood-tide. 

It  may  make  the  muscles  sore  and  the  back  ache 
to  dig  out  briers  and  pull  up  weeds,  but  this  is 
the  price  one  must  pay  for  a  good  garden,  and  this 


Miscellaneous  Hints  237 

is,  after  all,  about  the  only  real  payment  made. 
All  else  yields  such  a  large  return  that  the  payment 
is  lost  sight  of. 

When  selecting  varieties  of  plants  and  seeds  always 
put  quality  first,  earliness  next,  and  yield  next. 
Do  not  let  the  price  bear  much  weight  against  the 
first  requisite. 

Where  land  is  abundant  make  the  garden  extensive 
enough  that  the  vegetables  can  be  planted  in  rows 
which  will  permit  of  horse  cultivation.  The  rows 
should  be  straight  and  comparatively  long.  This 
not  only  lightens  labor  but  the  work  is  done  quickly 
when  the  weather  is  just  right. 

When  covering  root  crops  in  the  garden  to  remain 
there  during  the  winter,  they  should  first  be  cov- 
ered to  a  depth  of  four  inches  until  the  weather 
gets  cold  enough  to  freeze,  then  the  covering  should 
be  increased  to  a  depth  of  ten  inches.  Leaves, 
straw,  or  manure  added  to  this  covering  will  keep 
all  frost  out 

An  essential  to  long  keeping  of  roots  is  a  thorough 
cooling  before  they  are  covered.  A  slight  freezing 
will  not  injure  any  of  the  roots,  with  the  exception 
of  potatoes.  The  pile  of  roots  may  be  three  or 


238  Miscellaneous  Hints 

four  feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  three  feet  deep  at 
the  ridge. 

An  easy  and  very  regular  way  of  seeding  furrows  is 
by  means  of  the  seed  tape  which  is  coming  into  very 
popular  favor.  This  tape  contains  seed  at  the 
correct  distance  apart  and  much  wear  and  tear 
on  the  backbone  is  saved,  not  to  mention  the 
saving  in  seed. 

Keep  tools  sharpened  and  spray  pumps  oiled  if 
you  would  do  effective  work.  Never  let  the  rust 
get  ahead  of  you. 

The  most  necessary  tools  for  the  garden  are  a  good 
six-tine  manure  fork,  a  good  meadow  hoe  measuring 
about  eight  inches  across  the  blade  and  two  and  a 
half  inches  wide  for  men,  a  lighter  one  for  a  woman, 
a  twelve-  or  fourteen-toothed  iron  rake,  a  round, 
pointed  shovel,  and,  if  the  gardening  is  extensive,  a 
hand  seed-drill  and  wheel  hoe,  and  a  wheelbarrow. 
If  a  horse  is  used  for  cultivating,  a  small-tooth 
horse  cultivator  will  be  needed,  preferably  a  spike- 
tooth  cultivator  with  fourteen  teeth.  A  fork,  a 
trowel  and  a  large  spoon,  will  also  be  found  neces- 
sary in  performing  many  little  tasks. 

There  is  no  better  fence  than  the  woven  wire  fence 
if  made  of  good  material  and  put  up  right.  There 


Miscellaneous  Hints  239 

is  little  use  in  putting  up  a  fence  of  wire  that  has 
a  very  light  covering  of  galvanizing  to  protect  it 
from  the  weather.  Fences  with  wires  running  up 
and  down,  slipping  upon  those  which  cross,  are  of 
practically  no  value  if  there  are  any  animals  to 
work  their  way  through. 

Concrete  posts  will  repay  the  cost  many  times  over, 
but  if  wooden  posts  must  be  used,  do  not  drive 
them  into  the  ground,  instead  dig  holes  and  set 
them  in.  A  driven  post  in  a  frosty  country  will  not 
stay  in  place  long. 

Killing  weeds  is  only  one  object  of  cultivation. 
Conserving  moisture  and  giving  the  roots  breath- 
ing space  are  two  very  important  objects. 

The  drier  the  land  the  more  hoeing  or  cultivating 
should  be  done. 

When  a  cover  crop  is  necessary,  sow  rye.  These 
plants  will  protect  the  soil  from  washing  away,  save 
soluble  plant  food,  and  add  organic  matter  when 
plowed  in.  It  can  be  sown  any  time  up  to  the  first 
of  November,  but  the  earlier  it  is  done  the  stronger 
the  growth  before  the  ground  freezes  up. 

In  canning  fruit,  why  not  use  a  blue  flame  oil 
stove  and  do  the  work  out  under  the  trees.  While 


240  Miscellaneous  Hints 

the  fruit  is  cooking  the  worker  can  get  a  rest  in  a 
hammock  and  keep  cool.  Canning  will  not  then 
be  such  a  dreaded  task.  Protect  the  flame  from 
the  wind  by  means  of  a  sheet  of  tin,  if  the  stove  has 
not  been  provided  with  a  protector. 

An  efficiency  bucket  containing  a  big  ball  of 
strong  cord  of  soft  mesh,  another  ball  of  inch-wide 
strips  of  cloth,  a  pair  of  strong  shears,  a  pair  of 
small  pruners,  a  fork,  spoon,  and  trowel,  and  a  pair 
of  leather  gloves  will  prove  most  valuable.  Keep 
it  handy. 

Any  vegetable  from  your  garden  will  taste  much 
sweeter  if  shared  with  someone  who  can  have  only 
market  products. 

See  that  the  hoe  is  set  at  the  right  angle  for  your 
particular  back.  Hoes  and  chairs  should  be  fitted 
to  the  person,  and  a  blacksmith  can  do  the  job  for 
ten  cents,  if  you  cannot  do  it  yourself. 

Vegetables  are  often  spoiled  in  the  cooking.  Never 
boil  them  hard;  it  only  tends  to  toughen  them. 
They  should  always  simmer  or  else  boil  very  slowly. 

When  buying  a  thermometer  for  the  greenhouse  or 


Miscellaneous  Hints  241 

hotbed  purchase  one  with  the  name  of  the  maker  on 

it,  and  one  which  has  a  Fahrenheit  scale  etched  on 
\ 

the  glass  stem.    You  will  then  be  more  certain  to 
get  a  good  one. 

A  vegetable  box  lined  with  oilcloth,  tacked  neatly 
in  all  the  corners,  will  be  easy  to  keep  clean  and  will 
save  the  icebox  from  much  dirt. 


One  farmer  has  found  that  twine  strung  around 
the  field  with  bits  of  white  cloth  tied  on  and  flutter- 
ing here  and  there  is  worth  more  than  any  number 
of  scarecrows  stuffed  with  straw. 

Keep  the  teeth  of  the  harrow  sharpened.  They 
will  dig  in  with  greater  vim  and  lighten  the  work. 

Pollination  is  the  carrying  of  the  pollen  of  one 
flower  to  the  stigma,  or  tip  of  the  fruit  of  the  same  or 
another  flower.  Self-pollination  means  carrying 
to  a  like  flower,  and  cross-pollination  to  a  flower  of 
another  kind.  Pollination  is  followed  by  actual 
fertilization,  and  if  a  flower  is  not  fertilized  by 
suitable  pollen  the  fruit  falls  off  or  does  not  ma- 
ture as  it  should.  Hence  the  advisability  of  hav- 
ing more  than  one  of  a  kind  of  plant. 

16 


242  Miscellaneous  Hints 

The  plan  of  the  garden  should  include  the  grouping 
of  perennial  and  small-fruit  crops  on  one  side  of  the 
garden  where  the  necessary  annual  deep~tillage 
will  not  interfere,  and  the  rows  should_  run  the 
long  way  of  the  garden. 

For  systematic  gardening,  a  record  book  is  indis- 
pensable. Only  by  its  diligent  use  can  one  be 
governed  a  second  season  from  the  experiences  of 
the  preceding  year.  The  rainfall,  temperature, 
cultivation,  time  of  planting,  etc.,  should  be  care- 
fully noted  of  each  plant. 

For  the  systematic  gardener,  there  is  a  permanent 
label  holder  which  has  a  prong  to  be  thrust  into  the 
ground.  The  label  is  covered  with  mica,  thus 
protecting  it  from  rain. 

Little  zinc  labels  which  are  covered  by  a  trans- 
parent cover  are  very  inexpensive  and  will  last  a 
long  time. 

When  vines  are  planted  near  a  wooden  fence,  they 
can  easily  be  trained  to  climb  over  it  if  a  few  screws 
with  wooden  knobs  are  screwed  into  the  fence. 
The  wooden  knobs  will  prevent  the  vines  from  being 


Miscellaneous  Hints  243 

cut  by  the  screws  after  such  fruits  as  cucumbers 
and  other  heavy  fruit  have  attained  a  good  size. 
This  not  only  is  an  economical  way  of  providing 
support  for  peas,  beans,  etc.,  but  the  fence  is 
beautified  as  well. 

Select  the  site  for  the  various  vegetables  very  care- 
fully. You  will  gain  a  month  or  more  with  some 
vegetables  by  planting  them  in  a  protected  place. 

All  garden  planning  should  be  done  in  January, 
that  the  work  may  be  started  out  of  doors  just  as 
soon  as  danger  from  frost  is  over. 

A  dose  of  nitrate  of  soda  is  very  beneficial  to 
plants  which  need  invigorating.  A  teaspoonful  is 
enough  for  a  plant  which  attains  a  height  of  eigh- 
teen inches.  Too  large  a  dose  is  deadly. 

Keep  a  pot  of  mint,  a  pot  of  parsley,  lavender,  and 
other  favorite  herbs  in  the  kitchen  window.  They 
will  not  only  provide  garnishes  for  decorating  the 
dishes,  but  they  will  be  the  means  of  providing 
great  cheer  to  the  kitchen  worker  as  well,  and 
because  they  are  in  view  all  the  time,  they  will 
not  be  likely  to  suffer  from  lack  of  attention. 


244  Miscellaneous  Hints 

Do  all  grafting  on  a  mild  day.  On  a  cold  day,  the 
wax  will  harden  too  quickly  and  on  a  hot  day  it 
will  not  have  the  proper  consistency. 

A  small  box  or  an  old  basket  kept  in  a  convenient 
place  in  the  garden  will  be  found  most  convenient 
for  holding  a  ball  of  twine,  a  piece  of  wire,  or  a  pair 
of  old  shears,  and  many  steps  will  be  saved,  and, 
what  is  most  important,  little  jobs  of  work  will  be 
attended  to  when  notice  is  first  called  to  them,  instead 
of  putting  the  work  off  until  the  next  time  a  trip 
is  made  to  the  garden. 

In  tying  plants  and  vines  to  a  stake,  be  careful  not 
to  make  the  binding  too  tight  or  the  stems  will  be 
bruised.  A  soft  cord  or  green  raffia  should  be  used. 

If  flowers  are  to  be  planted  among  the  vegetables, 
select  the  site  carefully,  particularly  if  there  are 
perennials  among  them,  otherwise  the  garden  plan 
for  the  following  season  may  mean  destroying  the 
flowers  or  giving  them  a  long  set-back. 

In  preparing  a  window  box  for  herbs  for  the  kitchen, 
place  on  the  bottom  of  the  box  a  layer  of  pebbles, 
stones,  clinkers,  or  broken  pottery  as  a  drainage 
foundation.  Next  cover  this  with  a  layer  of  moss, 
both  layers  requiring  a  depth  of  three  or  four 
inches.  There  should  be  left  room  for  ten  or  twelve 


Miscellaneous  Hints  245 

inches  of  soil  and  the  soil  should  not  come  within 
an  inch  of  the  top  of  the  box.  In  all,  eighteen 
inches  will  be  a  good  substantial  depth  for  the  box. 

Place  the  kitchen  window  box  level  with  the  window 
that  the  plants  may  get  all  the  sunlight  possible. 
If  the  box  is  not  made  in  such  manner  that  it 
can  be  drained  from  a  pipe  extending  beneath 
the  box,  a  drip  pan  should  be  kept  underneath 
to  prevent  the  floor  from  being  water-sogged  after 
each  watering. 

Have  a  special  place  j or  the  rubbish  heap  and  have 
that  special  place  quite  a  distance  from  the  garden, 
otherwise  the  old  vines,  trash,  etc.,  will  be  the 
means  of  hibernating  a  number  of  insects  in  a  short 
while. 

When  gathering  vegetables  for  storing  during  the 
winter  months,  select  a  bright,  clear  day,  and  after 
they  are  picked,  hurry  at  once  with  them  to  the 
place  where  they  are  to  be  stored.  Do  not  dump 
great  quantities  down  in  one  place,  bruising  the 
leaves  and  roots,  but  pack  away  permanently  at 
once. 

The  majority  of  vegetables  are  self -pollinating, 
i.  e.,  they  produce  their  own  pollen  and  do  not 
have  to  depend  on  that  brought  to  them  from  other 


246  Miscellaneous  Hints 

plants  by  insects  and  butterflies,  or  by  the  wind. 
Among  the  self -pollinating  vegetables  are  beans, 
peas,  beets,  onions,  tomatoes,  peppers,  and  egg- 
plants, while  corn,  pumpkins,  squashes,  cucumbers, 
and  melons  are  propagated  from  the  pollen  of  other 
plants. 

Small  chickens  will  really  prove  very  beneficial 
to  the  vegetables  which  they  never  eat,  such  as  carrots, 
peppers,  celery,  squashes,  potatoes,  cucumbers,  and 
beans.  They  should  be  kept  away  from  all  berries 
and  from  beets,  spinach,  young  cabbage  plants, 
and  lettuce. 

When  chickens  have  the  run  of  the  potato  patch, 
be  careful  not  to  use  a  poisonous  spray  on  the 
potatoes. 

To  insure  posts  from  rotting  in  the  ground,  dig 
an  extra  large  hole  and  fill  with  concrete.  While 
the  concrete  is  soft,  set  the  post  in  the  hold,  being 
careful  that  there  is  enough  concrete  to  entirely 
cover  all  of  the  buried  portion  of  the  post. 

Have  a  seat  somewhere  in  the  garden.  A  few 
minutes*  rest  will  enable  the  garden  worker  to  ac- 
complish a  great  deal  more  than  if  steady  plugging 
is  engaged  in. 


Miscellaneous  Hints  247 

An  excellent  wax  for  use  in  grafting  is  made  as 
follows:  To  a  pound  of  beeswax  add  two  pounds  of 
resin  and  half  a  pint  of  linseed  oil.  Place  over  a 
slow  fire  and  allow  it  to  melt,  stirring  it  until  it  is 
thoroughly  mixed.  Pour  the  melted  mixture  into 
a  tub  of  cold  water  and  stir  it  with  a  wooden 
spoon  or  pole  until  it  has  attained  a  very  light 
shade.  Store  it  away  in  a  cool  place  until  it  is  to 
be  used. 

When  grafting  plants  or  using  any  insecticide 
which  is  at  all  injurious  to  the  skin,  oil  the  hands 
thoroughly  with  sweet  oil  and  the  skin  will  not  be 
harmed. 

For  the  woman  gardener  to  be  becomingly  dressed 
will  not  detract  from  the  pleasure  of  gardening. 
Pretty  smocks  in  many  colors  are  to  be  had  in  the 
shops,  and  are  easily  made  at  home.  They  are 
easy  to  don  and  easy  to  iron. 

A  long-sleeved  apron  will  prove  very  useful  when 
working  in  the  garden,  and  an  apron  of  oilcloth 
will  be  invaluable  when  watering  plants,  kneeling 
on  the  damp  ground  or  working  among  the  vege- 
tables when  the  dew  has  not  yet  left  the  foliage. 

A  sunbonnet  should  always  be  worn  when  working 
in  the  glaring  sunt  and  particularly  should  a  shade 


248  Miscellaneous  Hints 

be  supplied  for  the  eyes  when  working  in  or 
around  the  hotbed,  as  the  glare  from  the  glass  will 
be  very  trying  to  the  eyes. 

When  weeding  or  digging  for  a  long  while  in  one 
spot  on  a  sunny  day,  a  large  umbrella  planted  in  the 
ground  near  the  bed  will  prove  a  great  boon  and 
will  be  the  means  of  sparing  the  garden  worker 
many  a  headache.  Green  is  the  best  color  to  kill 
the  glare  of  the  sun's  rays,  though  a  black  um- 
brella will  serve  the  purpose  very  well  indeed. 

Garden  gloves  will  protect  the  hands  from  scratches, 
bruises,  and  grime,  and  every  gardener  should  have 
a  pair.  They  can  be  had  of  chamois,  asbestos, 
rubber,  or  heavy  canvas,  and  the  cost  is  slight. 
Asbestos  gloves  are  perhaps  the  best  wearing  and 
afford  the  most  protection  for  one  who  will  not  find 
a  heavy  glove  a  handicap. 

Trays  or  bowls  of  asbestos  or  papier  mache  are 
excellent  for  use  when  drying  herbs,  as  they  do  not 
absorb  any  moisture. 

If  you  are  planning  a  garden,  send  a  postal  card 
for  the  catalogues  of  the  big  nurseries.  Even  if 
you  are  not  desirous  of  purchasing  more  seed,  the 


Miscellaneous  Hints  249 

catalogues  will  give  you  excellent  suggestions. 
The  nurserymen  are  always  glad  to  forward  the 
catalogues  for  it  will  eventually  mean  more  busi- 
ness for  them. 

And  while  you  are  gardening,  try  to  excel  in  some 
one  line.  Have  the  prize  tomato  of  the  neighbor- 
hood, the  finest  celery,  the  largest  heads  of  cabbage. 
Experiment  and  see  what  you  can  do.  There  is 
no  greater  joy  on  earth  than  making  a  discovery 
with  nature's  tools. 

Study  the  catalogues  of  seedsmen  and  keep  up- 
to-date  on  garden  implements.  In  gardening  as  in 
carpentering,  the  best  work  cannot  be  done  with- 
out proper  tools.  A  few  of  the  things  which  a 
gardener  must  have  are: 

Hoes  of  various  sizes. 

Spade. 

Rake. 

Measuring  rod. 

Weeding  hooks. 

Shears. 

Hose. 

Watering  can. 

Trowel. 

Pork. 

Mole  trap. 

Sprayer. 

For  the  fruit  grower  there  is  manufactured  a 


250  Miscellaneous  Hints 

fruit  picker  which  will  enable  the  fruit  to  be  taken 
from  the  dress  without  bruises.  This  little  article 
is  indispensable  when  picking  fruit  that  is  to  be 
stored  away  for  any  length  of  time. 

A  hedge  of  evergreen  shrubs  affords  excellent  pro- 
tection for  tender  young  vegetables  if  planted  where 
it  will  break  the  north  winds.  By  rotting  cuttings 
from  evergreens,  the  plants  may  be  made  to  multi- 
ply and  cover  a  large  area  in  one  or  two  seasons. 
The  cuttings  should  be  placed  in  a  pot,  or  better 
still,  a  wooden  box,  and  the  soil  should  be  kept 
uniformly  moist. 

One  very  successful  method  of  rooting  shrubbery 
cuttings  is  to  take  from  the  parent  bush  pieces 
having  at  least  one  joint  and  burying  them  in  a 
paper  cup  which  is  set  inside  the  cold-frame.  The 
cuttings  should  be  syringed  daily  and  except  at  that 
time  the  cold-frame  kept  closed.  The  direct  rays 
of  the  sun  should  not  shine  on  them  or  they 
will  be  too  warm  and  will  dry  out.  This  method 
usually  starts  roots  very  quickly  and  the  cuttings 
should  be  hardened  off  gradually  by  allowing  the 
cold-frame  to  be  opened  a  little  at  a  time  each  day 
until  the  roots  have  become  accustomed  to  plenty 
of  air. 


LIST  OF  AGRICULTURAL  EXPERIMENT 
STATIONS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES 

AND  ITS  TERRITORIES 

i 

(These  stations  are  maintained  for  the  purpose 
of  promoting  agriculture,  and  the  Directors  will  be 
glad  to  be  of  assistance  in  furnishing  information 
with  reference  to  their  own  States.) 

Alabama  jTuskegee 

( Auburn 

Alaska  Sitka 

Arizona  Tuscon 

Arkansas  Fayetteville 

California  Berkeley 

Colorado  Fort  Collins 

~  ( New  Haven 

Connecticut  \Qiom 

Delaware  Newark 

Florida  Gainesville 

Georgia  Experiment 

Guam  Guam 

Hawaii  Honolulu 

Idaho  Moscow 

Illinois  Urbana 

251 


252    Agricultural  Experiment  Stations 


Indiana 

Iowa 

Kansas 

Kentucky 

Louisiana 

Maine 

Maryland 

Massachusetts 

Michigan 

Minnesota 

Mississippi 

Missouri 

Montana 

Nebraska 

Nevada 

New  Hampshire 

New  Jersey 

New  Mexico 

New  York 

North  Carolina 
North  Dakota 
Ohio 

Oklahoma 
Oregon 
Pennsylvania 
Porto  Rico 
Rhode  Island 
South  Carolina 
South  Dakota 
Tennessee 


Lafayette 

Ames 

Manhattan 

Lexington 

Baton  Rouge 

Orono 

College  Park 

Amherst 

East  Lansing 

St.  Paul 

Agricultural  College 

Columbia 

Bozeman 

Lincoln 

Reno 

Durham 

New  Brunswick 

State  College 
(  Geneva 
( Ithaca  (Cornell  College) 

Raleigh 

Agricultural  College 

Wooster 

Stillwater 

Corvallis 

State  College 

Mayaquez 

Kingston 

Clemson  College 

Brookings 

Knoxville 


Agricultural  Experiment  Stations    253 

Texas  College  Station 

Utah  "Logan 

Vermont  Burlington 

Virginia  Blacksburg 

Washington  Pullman 

West  Virginia  Morgantown 

Wisconsin  Madison 

Wyoming  Laramie. 


254         Plans  for  a  Family  Garden 


PLAN  FOR  A  FAMILY   GARDEN 


Vegetable    When  to  Sow 

Ready  for  Use            Follow  by 

Lettuce 

April 

June 

Parsley 

Radishes 

March 

April 

Lettuce 

Onions 

March 

July 

Turnip 

Turnips 

March 

June 

Carrots 

Carrots 

March 

May 

Onions 

Swiss  Chard 

March 

June 

Continues  all  season 

Radishes 

April 

May 

Beans  (green) 

Beets 

March 

June 

Continues  until  late 

Beans  (wax) 

May 

July 

Beets  (for  winter) 

Peas 

April 

June 

Beans  (green) 

TABLE  DENOTING  HOW  MUCH  SPACE  SHOULD  BE 
DEVOTED  TO  VARIOUS  VEGETABLES 


Sweet  corn 
«        n 

Carrots 

Beets 

Lettuce 

Beans  (snap) 

Beans  (Lima) 

Peas 

Onions 

Tomatoes 

Melons 

Brussels  Sprouts 

Cabbage 

Celery 

Okra 

Peppers 


40  feet  early  in  the  season 
80     "    later 
15  feet 

15 
18 
40 
30 

75 
18 

30  plants 

25  vines  (for  the  year's  supply) 

50  feet  (for  winter  and  summer 
supply) 

50  feet  (for  the  year's  supply) 

40  stalks 

25  plants  (when  eaten  as  vege- 
table) 

5  plants 


CONVENIENT  LISTS  FOR  THE  GARDENER 

To  be  sown  indoors  and  transplanted  later: 

Beets  Leeks 

Cabbages  Lettuce 

Carrots  Muskmelons 

Cauliflowers  Parsley 

Celery  Tomatoes 

Eggplants  Watermelons 


Sown  in  frames  and  matured  there  for  early  crops 

Beets 

Carrots  Parsley 

Chevril  Radishes 

Cress  Spinach 

Onions  Turnips 


To  be  sown  out  of  doors  and  transplanted  later; 

Brussels  Sprouts  Celery 

Cabbages  Endive 

Cauliflowers  Kale 

Celeriac  Kohl-rabi 
255 


256  Convenient  Lists  for  the  Gardener 

To  be  sown  where  they  are  to  grow: 

Beans,  snap  Parsley 

Beans,  pole  Parsnips 

Beans,  lima  Peas 

Beets  Potatoes 

Carrots  Pumpkins 

Chard  (Swiss)  Radishes 

Corn  Rutabaga 

Cucumbers  Salsify 

Leeks  Spinach 

Lettuce  Squashes 

Muskmelons  Turnips 

Okra  Watermelons. 

Onions 

A  list  of  vegetables  not  injured  by  frosts: 


Asparagus 
Beets 
Cabbage 
Carrots 

Kohl-rabi 
Lettuce 
Onions 
Parsley 

Parsnips    . 
Peas 
Radishes 
Rhubarb 

Rutabaga 
Salsify 
Spinach 
Turnips 

A  list  of  vegetables  which  will  readily  be  injured 
by  frost: 

Beans  Egg  Plant  Squash 

Cauliflower  Muskmelon  Swiss  Chard 

Celery  Pepper  Tomatoes 

Cucumbers  Pumpkin 


List  of  Vegetables 


257 


THE  FOLLOWING  Two  TABLES  ARE  EXTRACTED  FROM  INFORMA- 
TION FURNISHED  BY  THE  CORNELL  EXPERIMENT  STATION 
AT  ITHACA,  NEW  YORK,  AND  ARE  AS  ACCURATE,  PROBABLY, 
AS  ANy  TABLE  COULD  BE: 


Name  of  vegetable 

Seed  for  100  ft. 

Depth  to  plant 
seed  (inches) 

Artichokes,  globe  

y* 

Asparagus  

60  to  80  plants 

Beans,  dwarf  
Beans,  pole  

i  Pt  

^A  ot 

i 
i 

Beets  

2  OZ 

/4  to  i 

Brussels  sprouts.  .  . 

x^  OZ 

1^ 

Cabbage,  early  

%  oz  

r£ 

Cabbage,  mid-season 

x^  OZ 

*A 

Cabbage,  late  

y\  oz 

Carrots  

I  OZ 

y*  to  # 

Cauliflower  

Celery,  early  

y  oz 

y\  or  less 

Celery,  late  

y£  oz. 

3^  or  less 

Corn,  early  
Corn,  late.  .  . 

Kpt  

ix'  Dt 

i  to  \]A  , 
I  to  13^ 

Cucumbers  

y£  oz..  . 

%  to  I 

Dandelion..  .  . 

y*  oz 

Endive.  .  . 

"r/ 

Kale  

£/ 

Kohlrabi  

^x 

Leek  

//2   OZ 

^/ 

Lettuce  

3^  oz 

0 

Muskmelons  

y  to  i 

Onions  

I  OZ 

j/- 

Parsley  . 

5^  oz 

r/  ^Q  TX* 

Parsnips  

3^  oz 

3^  to  3^ 

Peas,  early  

i  at 

I  to  2 

Peas,  late  

i  at. 

I  to  2 

Peppers  

x8  OZ 

Potatoes,  early 

5  to  8  Ibs 

i  to  «? 

Potatoes,  late. 

5  to  8  Ibs 

•i  to  ^ 

Pumpkins  

^A  oz 

i  to  i/4 

Radishes  

I  OZ 

Salsify  

I  OZ. 

^  to  i 

Spinach  

I  OZ. 

Squash  

^A  oz..  . 

i  to  i^ 

Tomatoes  

y»  oz 

y*  to  x 

Turnips  

3^2  OZ 

Watermelons.  . 

I  OZ..  . 

itoi*A 

List  of  Vegetables 


Name  of  vegetable 

Distance  apart  of 
plants  iu  rows 

Ready  for  use  after 
planting 

Artichokes,  globe  

2  to  3  ft  

15  months 

12  in  

2  to  3  years 

Beans,  dwarf  

3  to  4  in.  . 

45  to    6s;  davs 

Beans,  pole  

3  to  4  in.  . 

50  to    80  days 

Beets 

4  to  6  ft 

60  to    8  ^  days 

Brussels  sprouts 

12  to  18  in 

95  to  1  20  days 

Cabbage,  early   .  .  . 

12  to  18  in 

90  to  100  days 

Cabbage,  mid-season. 

16  to  24  in 

100  to  120  days 

Cabbage,  late  

20  to  30  in  . 

100  to  130  days 

Carrots  

2  to  3  in  . 

75  to  no  days 

Cauliflower  

14  to  18  in.  . 

100  to  130  days 

Celery,  early  

3  to  5  in.  .    .    . 

1  20  to  130  days 

Celery,  late  

4  to  8  in  .... 

130  to  150  days 

Corn,  early. 

Hills  1  8  to  24  in 

6s)  to    QO  days 

Corn,  late. 

Hills  30  to  36  in 

75  to  100  days 

Cucumbers. 

Hills  4  ft 

60  to    80  days 

Dandelion.  . 

12  to  18  in 

6  to  12  months 

Endive  

12  to  1  8  in 

90  to  130  days 

Kale  

1  8  in. 

90  to  1  20  days 

Kohlrabi  

12  to  18  in. 

60  to    80  days 

Leek  

4  to  8  in  ..    . 

120  to  180  days 

Lettuce  

Head  10  in.  . 

60  to    90  days 

Muskmelons  

Hills  6  ft  

120  to  150  days 

Onions  .    . 

2  in  

130  to  150  days 

Parsley. 

3  to  6  in 

90  to  120  days 

Parsnips 

3  to  4  in 

125  to  160  days 

Peas,  early 

Close 

40  to    80  days 

Peas,  late. 

Close 

65  to    90  days 

Peppers  

15  to  18  in 

100  to  140  days 

Potatoes,  early 

12  to  14  in 

80  to  100  days 

Potatoes,  late..    . 

12  to  18  in.  .    . 

100  to  140  days 

Pumpkins  

Hills  8  ft  

100  to  140  days 

Radishes.  

I  in  

20  to    40  days 

Salsify  

4  to  6  in  

120  to  1  80  days 

Spinach.  .  . 

•7  to  4  in 

30  to    60  days 

Squash  

Hills  3  to  8  ft.  .. 

Bush    60    to    80 

Tomatoes  

i/4  to  3  ft  

days,      running 
120  to  160  days 
100  to  140  days 

Turnips  

6  to  IO  in  

60  to    80  days 

Watermelons.  . 

Hills  8  ft.  .  . 

100  to  1  20  days 

INDEX 


Agricultural  Experiment  Sta- 
tions in  the  United  States 
and  Territories,  A  List  of, 

251-253 

Ammonia,  sulphate  of,  recom- 
mended, in;  quantity  and 
when  to  apply,  105 

Ammonia  water,  used  to  kill 
insects  and  as  a  fertilizer, 
107,  108 

Analysis  of  soil,  by  State  Agri- 
cultural Experiment  Sta- 
tions, 104 

Angleworms,  not  harmful  but 
helpful,  179 

Annuals,  winter  protection  of, 

151 

Anthracnose,  on  beans,  to  pre- 
vent, 1 68 

Ants,  spread  aphis,  to  kill,  172 

Aphis,  on  cabbage,  to  destroy, 
165;  spread  by  ants,  172 

Apples,  caution  when  purchas- 
ing trees,  when  trees  mature, 

i  Bordeaux  mixture  spray,  fer- 
tilized with  wood  ashes, 
when  to  set  out  trees,  184; 
dwarf  apples  not  recom- 
mended, pruning,  when  prun- 
ing old  trees,  when  and  how 
to  graft,  tools  needed,  185; 
thinning  fruit,  spray  for  cod- 
ling moth  and  apple  worm, 
gypsy  moth  and  caterpillar, 
1 86;  storing  fruit  for  the 
winter,  pruning  when  plant- 
ing, cultivation  of  the  ground 


under  trees,  winter  mulch, 
grub  worm,  187;  fertilizer, 
care  when  first  planted,  how 
to  plant,  staking  out,  188, 
189;  spray  for  bitter  rot  and 
brown  rot,  for  blight,  189; 
when  to  spray,  176;  diseases 
of,  169;  maggot  or  railroad 
worm,  care  of  tree,  170;  in- 
sects and  diseases,  169, 
packing  fruit  for  the  winter, 
170;  distance  at  which  to 
set  trees,  207 

Apricots,  when  to  set  out,  loca- 
tion, year-old  trees  the  best, 
pruning,  fertilization,  189, 
190;  distance  at  which  to 
set  trees,  208 

Apron,  for  the  woman  gardener, 
of  oilcloth,  247 

Arm,  of  vine,  definition  of,  223 

Army  worm,  description,  hab- 
its, to  eradicate,  174 

Arsenate  of  Lead,  paste,  recipe 
for,  182;  powder,  recipe  for, 

Artichokes,  soil  requirements, 
when  to  plant,  when  ready 
for  consumption,  care  dur- 
ing winter,  how  to  plant 
Jerusalem,  I 

Ashes  to  keep  mice  from  plants, 
170 

Ashes,  coal,  for  sandy  soil,  112; 
for  heavy  soil,  106 

Ashes,  wood,  advantages  as 
fertilizer,  in;  how  to  apply, 
115;  when  and  how  to  apply, 
advantages,  106 


259  .. 


26o 


Index 


Asparagus,  soil  requirements, 
sowing  seed,  to  hasten  ger- 
mination, purchasing  crowns, 
2;  to  force,  to  bleach,  care 
during  winter,  3;  planting 
crowns,  when  first  produces, 
life  of  bed,  length  of  cutting 
season,  fertilizing,  saving 
seed,  4;  mow  and  burn  tops, 
care  of  roots  for  spring  plant- 
ing, liquid  manure  for,  select- 
ing roots  for  planting,  size  of 
bed  required,  5;  when  to  stop 
cutting,  seed,  6;  to  control 
asparagus  beetle,  166 


B 


Balm,  sowing  seed,  solid  re- 
quirements, 6 

Basic  slag,  when  and  how  to 
apply,  in;  quantity  and 
when  to  apply,  106 

Basil,  sowing  seed,  likeness  to 
cloves,  winter  growth,  7 

Beans,  soil  requirements,  dan- 
ger from  frost,  7;  as  rotation 
crop,  cultivation  necessary, 
succession  of  crops,  how  to 
plant,  planted  between  rows 
of  corn,  not  to  be  cultivated 
when  wet,  8;  when  to  plant, 
AlcCasland  or  stringless, 
Lima,  forcing,  selecting  seed, 
9;  pinched  back  to  increase 
production,  10;  to  support 
vines,  9,  10;  trained  on  a 
wire  fence,  70;  to  kill  weevils 
on,  169;  not  to  be  planted 
two  years  in  the  same  place, 
168;  selection  of  seed,  1  68; 
to  control  blight,  168;  thin- 


*47» 


to  be  trans- 


planted, 143;  Lima,  danger 
from  frost,  60 
Bed,  seed,  see  under  Seed,  130- 

137 

Beetle,  asparagus,  to  control, 
166;  potato,  to  control,  166; 
on  eggplant,  to  kill,  44;  cu- 


cumber, prevention,  41;  on 
watermelon,  to  kill,  99 

Beets,  soil  requirements,  fer- 
tilization, forcing,  varieties, 
when  to  plant,  how  to  plant, 
10,  11;  successive  plantings, 
for  winter  use,  thinnings  and 
tops  make  good  greens,  may 
be  grown  between  rows  of 
other  vegetables,  growing 
seed,  12;  in  window  box,  54; 
early  planting,  56;  thinning, 
necessity,  distance,  147 

Birds,  valuable  in  killing  in- 
sects, 178;  to  keep,  away 
from  berries,  229 

Black  knot,  examine  peach 
trees  for,  to  distinguish, 
treatment  of  tree  for,  197 

Blackberries  and  Raspberries, 
distance  at  which  to  set 
bushes,  209;  soil  require- 
ments, fertilizers,  require 
room,  winter  protection,  life 
of  the  patch,  planting  in  rows, 
crown  gall,  cultivation,  209, 
210,  227,  228;  cutting  and 
pruning,  tipping  canes,  nip- 
ping new  tops,  cutting  back 
cane,  211;  removing  suckers, 
supporting  canes,  need  of 
shade  and  dampness,  prepar- 
ing land  for,  pruning  and 
thinning,  212;  care  after 
fruiting,  care  in  spring,  loca- 
tion of  bed,  213;  winter  pro- 
tection, manure  a  protection 
from  cold,  care  of  picked 
fruit,  varieties,  214 

Blight,  on  potatoes,  to  prevent, 
74;  to  control,  166;  on  beans, 
to  control,  168;  spray  for, 
177;  of  pear  trees,  treatment 
for,  200 

Blood,  dried,  advantages  of,  as 
fertilizer,  107;  with  sulphate 
of  ammonia,  in;  quantity 
and  when  to  apply,  105 

Blueberries,  soil  requirements, 
life  of  bushes,  pollination, 
215;  mixed  fruit,  216 


Index 


261 


Bone,  crushed,  a  phosphate, 
in;  basic  slag  a  substitute, 
in;  bone  meal  or  crushed 
bone,  when  to  apply  and 
quantity  of,  106 

Book,  record,  for  the  garden, 
242 

Borage,  soil  requirements,  seed 
sown,  young  and  tender 
leaves  only  eaten,  13 

Bordeaux  Mixture,  recipe  for, 
1 80,  181;  spray  with,  for 
potato  bugs,  72 ;  for  insects 
on  watermelon,  99;  for  toma- 
toes, 92;  for  diseases,  165; 
for  fungus,  168 

Bordeaux  Arsenate  of  Lead 
Mixture,  recipe  for,  181 

Borers,  on  fruit  trees,  when  to 
look  for,  206;  on  quince  tree, 
treatment  for,  205;  on  peach 
tree,  treatment  for,  198 

Boxes,  seed,  care  of,  132, 135 

Branch  of  vine,  definition,  223 

Brown  rot,  on  peach  trees, 
spraying  for,  196,  197 

Browntail  moth,  to  control, 
169 

Brussels  Sprouts,  when  to  plant, 
transplanting,  soil  require- 
ments, winter  care,  13,  14 

Bud  moth,  spray  for,  170 


Cabbage,  soil  requirements, 
parasites,  forcing,  14;  how  to 
plant,  when  ready  for  use, 
cultivation,  transplanting, 
15;  burst  heads,  storage  for 
the  winter,  in  the  South, 
composition,  15,  16,  17; 
fertilized  with  nitrate  of  soda, 
1 10;  to  destroy  aphis  on,  165 ; 
maggot,  166;  worms,  166; 
when  to  start  in  hothouse  or 
hotbed,  124 

Cabbage  aphis,  spray  for,  165 

Cabbage  worm,  spraying  solu- 
tion for,  14,  17,  1 66 

Cane  of  vine,  definition,  223 


Canker  worms,  spray  for,  170 

Canning  fruit,  out  doors  with 
oil  stove,  239 

Cantaloupe,  soil  requirements, 
when  to  sow,  flavor  in- 
fluenced by  soil  conditions, 
17;  how  to  plant,  when  to 
pick,  old  seed,  to  raise  seed, 
18;  soil  requirements,  58; 
how  to  plant,  seed,  trans- 
planting, watering,  59;  sav- 
ing seed,  danger  from  frost, 
picking,  60,  61.  See  Musk- 
melon. 

Carrots,  soil  requirements,  how 
to  plant,  cultivation,  weeds, 
winter  care,  diseases  and  in- 
sects, 19;  growing  seed,  12; 
thinning,  necessity,  distance, 

147 

Catalogues,  advantages  of  se- 
curing, 248,  249 

Caterpillars,  spraying  for,  169; 
to  kill,  171;  tent  caterpillar, 
destroying,  169,  spray  for,i7O 

Catnip,  its  use,  planting,  how 
propagated,  20 

Cauliflower,  cabbage  worm  on, 
spray  for,  14;  soil  require- 
ments, fertilizer,  storing, 
bleaching,  transplanting,  21, 

22 

Celeriac,  its  use,  when  to  plant, 
how  to  plant,  transplanting, 
soil  requirements,  winter 
care,  22,  23 

Celery,  soil  requirements,  23, 
25;  fertilizer,  23,  24;  seeds, 
24;  transplanting,  how  to 
plant,  24,  25;  blanching,  24, 
25,  26;  watering,  25;  growth 
must  be  rapid,  cultivation, 
winter  storage,  26;  benefited 
by  transplanting,  143 

Centipede,  house,  to  kill,  not 
harmful  but  helpful,  173 

Charcoal,  for  cut  vegetables, 
156 

Chard,  not  difficult  to  grow, 
forcing,  27;  when  to  use,  how 
to  cut,  28 


262 


Index 


Cherries,  use  of  stuffed  owl 
to  frighten  away  robins, 
pruning,  summer  spray, 
pruning  sweet  cherry,  soil 
requirements,  fertilizer,  190, 
191;  cherry  moth;  habits, 
spray  for;  cultivation,  prun- 
ing, 192;  grass  around  tree 
cut  and  allowed  to  rot,  to 
make  humus,  picking  fruit, 
fertilizer,  193;  spray  for 
slugs,  176;  spray  for  plant 
lice,  198;  distance  at  which 
to  set  trees,  208 

Chervil,  how  to  sow,  when  to 
sow,  soil  requirements,  28,  29 

Chestnuts,  soil  requirements, 
care  of  tree,  when  matured, 
rooting  suckers,  230 

•Chicken  droppings,  value  of, 
how  to  apply,  114,  no 

Chickens,  in  potato  patch,  cau- 
tion, 246;  what  vegetables 
they  harm,  what  ones  they 
do  not  harm,  246;  following 
fall  plowing  to  control  in- 
sects, 1 80 

Chicory,  soil  requirements, 
table  use,  when  to  plant, 
how  to  plant,  29 

Chives,  utility,  how  to  grow, 
winter  care,  30 

Citron,  how  to  grow,  30 

Clay  soils,  treated  with  lime, 
112,  113,  drainage,  116 

Climbing  vines,  to  support,  9, 
10 

Coal  ashes,  for  sandy  soil,  112; 
for  heavy  soil,  106 

Cold-frame,  The  Hotbed  and, 
article  on,  117-121;  hints 
on,  121-126 

Collards,  soil  requirements, 
how  to  plant,  when  to  plant, 
blanching,  transplanting,  re- 
quire plenty  of  moisture,  31 ; 
cultivation,  32 

Commercial  fertilizers,  amount 
to  use,  112,  113;  caution  in 
using,  108,  109;  to  judge  ad- 
vantages of,  in 


Compost,  to  prepare,  108;  to 
apply,  109;  amount  to  apply, 
no 

Corn,  cultivation,  forcing, 
shocking  the  stalks,  burning 
old  roots,  selecting  seed,  test- 
ing seed,  34;  soil  require- 
ments, 32 ;  saving  seed,  32, 33, 
35;  how  to  plant,  amount  to 
plant,  how  to  cook,  when  to 
use,  33 1  34;  tar  to  discourage 
crows,  35;  picking,  34,  35; 
care  of  seed,  36,  37;  select- 
ing seed,  when  planting  seed, 
37;  beans  planted  between 
rows  of,  8;  pumpkin  planted 
between  rows  of,  76 

Corn  Salad,  how  to  plant,  when 
to  sow,  top  dressing  for,  its 
use,  38 

Corrosive  sublimate,  recipe  for, 
182 

Cover  crop,  rye  recommended, 

239 

Cress,  water,  how  to  plant,  38; 
cutting,  succession  of  plant- 
ings, 38,  39 

Crushed  bone,  when  to  apply, 
quantity  of,  106;  a  phos- 
phate, in 

Cucumbers,  growing  seed,  care 
of  seed,  early,  in  hotbed, 
thinning  hills,  40;  soil  re- 
quirements, when  to  plant, 
fertilizer,  on  a  trellis,  39,  40; 
if  grown  too  large  before 
transplanting,  protection  a- 
gainst  beetle,  cultivation, 
frequent  picking,  41;  to 
support  vines,  9,  10;  danger 
of  frost,  60;  can  be  planted 
near  pumpkins,  77;  when 
attacked  by  squash  bug,  167; 
when  attacked  by  aphis,  by 
cucumber  beetle,  167;  not  to 
be  transplanted,  143 

Cucumber  beetle,  on  water- 
melon vine,  to  exterminate, 
99  « 

Cultivation,  article  on,  149- 
150;  hints  on,  151-153; 


Index 


263 


Cultivation — Continued 

when  to  cultivate,  impor- 
tance of,  how  to,  protection 
of  plants,  with  boards,  winter 
protection  of  annuals,  151; 
advantages  of  cultivation, 
when  to,  trees  and  bushes, 
necessity  for  in  dry  weather, 
as  a  substitute  for  fertilizer, 
done  in  the  morning,  152; 
with  a  wheel  hoe,  care  of 
small  plants  while,  early 
cultivation  advised,  153;  ad- 
vantages of,  239 

Curculio,  spray  for,  170;  on 
pear  trees,  196 

Currants  and  Gooseberries, 
distance  at  which  to  set 
bushes,  208;  hardy  fruits, 
growth  of,  care  of  fruit, 
pruning,  roots  near  surface, 
thinning  bushes,  borers,  care 
during  winter,  English  va- 
rieties, ripened  gooseberries 
only  tasty,  soil  requirements, 
benefits  of  shade  and  culti- 
vation, care  and  planting 
bushes,  to  induce  branching, 
216,  217,  218,  219 

Cutworm,  to  protect  tomato 
plants  from,  180 


Damson  plums,  treatment  and 
care,  204 

Dandelions,  as  greens,  how  and 
when  to  plant,  cultivation,  to 
blanch,  cooking,  to  blanch 
and  store  roots,  42 

Dewberries,  not  trained  on 
trellis,  planting  and  cultiva- 
tion, soil  requirements,  218, 
219 

Diseases  of  Plants,  hints  on, 
164 

Drain,  care  in  laying,  236 

Drainage,  of  seed  bed,  133; 
of  clay  soils,  of  sandy  soils, 
116 


Dress,  for  the  woman  gardener, 

247 
Dried  blood,  with  sulphate  of 

ammonia,    in;   advantages 

of,  107;  when  to  apply  and 

quantity,  105 
Drill,  for  seed,  used  for  large 

plots,  130,  132 
Drying  herbs,  advantages  of 

papier   macho*    or   asbestos 

trays  when,  248 


Early  crops,  a  list  of  vegetables 
to  be  grown  in  frames  for, 
254 

Eggplant,  soil  requirements, 
43,  44;  fertilizer,  moisture, 
seed,  germination,  cultiva- 
tion, 43;  transplanting,  43, 
44;  should  receive  no  check 
in  growth,  grown  in  pots, 
time  to  transplant,  to  rid, 
of  potato  bugs  and  beetle, 
44;  fertilized  with  nitrate  of 
soda,  no 

Egyptian  onion,  the,  63 

Endive,  sowing  seed,  winter 
use,  soil  requirements, 
blanching,  45 

Evergreens,  for  hedges,  ad- 
vantages of,  how  to  start, 
250 

Experiment  Stations  in  the 
United  States  and  Terri- 
tories, A  List  of  Agricultural, 
251-253 

Experiments,  the  joys  of,  249 


Fence  for  the  garden,  235; 
woven  wire  recommended, 
238,  concrete  posts  advised, 
239;  to  prevent  posts  from 
rotting,  246 

Fennel,  varieties,  sowing  seed, 
Florence  fennel,  cooking,  46 

Fertilization,  article  on  soils 
and,  100-104 


264 


Index 


Fertilization,  Soil  and,  hints  on, 
104-116;  for  small  gardens, 
amounts  to  apply,  lime  for 
heavy  soils,  guano,  analysis 
of  soils,  104;  vegetation 
plowed  under  to  form  humus, 
manure,  table  of  amounts  of 
fertilizers  to  apply,  105,  106; 
soil  for  hotbeds,  use  of  wood 
ashes,  106;  experimenting  to 
determine  fertilizer  needed, 
advantages  of  dried  blood, 
107  jammonia,  compost,  trash 
removed  from  fertilizers,! 08; 
commercial  fertilizers,  sheep 
and  barnyard  manure, 
ground  phosphate,  nitrogen, 
phosphoric  acid  and  potash, 
109;  use  of  lime,  apply  man- 
ure in  fall,  advantages  of 
barnyard  manure,  amount 
of  compost  to  apply,  nitrate 
of  soda,  no;  for  cabbage, 
pepper,  and  eggplants,  lime, 
sulphate  of  ammonia,  dried 
blood,  potash,  wood  ashes, 
advantage  of  nitrogen  to 
promote  growth,  and  phos- 
phates to  promote  fruitful- 
ness,  in;  crushed  bone  and 
basic  slag,  combining  fertil- 
izers, tested  lime,  phosphates, 
lime  and  ashes  for  sandy  soil, 
112;  caution,  guano  as  liquid 
fertilizer,  caution  with  ni- 
trate of  soda,  vegetation 
turned  under  to  make  humus, 
113;  manure  treated  with 
rock  phosphate,  greasy  wa- 
ter, chicken  droppings,  sheep 
manure,  applying  fertilizers, 
114;  liquid  fertilizer,  wood 
ashes,  manure  for  winter 
covering,  and  in  flats, 
H5 

Figs,  where  to  plant,  correcting 
spreading  of  roots,  picking 
fruit,  pruning,  mealy  bug 
and  canker,  their  prevention, 
mice,  193,  194,  195 

Flats,  manure  in,  to  hold  soil 


to  plant  roots,  115;  in  recep- 
tacle to  water,  126 

Fleas,  breed  in  rotting  straw, 
171;  killed  with  stick  fly 
paper,  172 

Flies,  breed  in  rotting  straw, 
171;  to  kill  the  small  black, 
damage  to  fruit,  common 
fly  controlled  by  treating 
manure,  173,  174;  green  fly 
of  plum  tree,  spray  for,  203 

Florence  fennel,  46 

Flowers,  planted  among  vege- 
tables, 244 

Fly  beetles,  spraying  tomatoes 
for,  92;  to  kill,  165 

Forcing  vegetables,  disadvan- 
tages, 157 

Formaldehyde,  for  onions,  64; 
treating  potatoes  with  to 
prevent  scab,  72;  a  recipe  for 
formaldehyde  solution, 
182 

Formalin,  see   Formaldehyde. 

Frames,  a  list  of  vegetables  to 
be  grown  in,  for  early  crops, 
254.  See  Cold-frames  and 
Hotbeds. 

Frost,  a  list  of  vegetables  not 
injured  by,  255;  a  list  of 
vegetables  which  will  readily 
be  injured  by  frost,  255; 
eradicates  insects,  180 

Fruit,  hints  on,  184-208 

Fruits,  Small,  general  hints  on, 
227-229 

Fruit,  trees  not  to  be  set  too 
close  together,  205;  drying 
to  preserve,  cultivation  and 
ventilation,  whitewashing 
trunks,  206;  planting  vege- 
tables between  trees,  when  to 
look  for  borers,  grafting, 
remedies  for  diseases,  cau- 
tion, fertilizers,  207;  train- 
ing limbs,  cultivating  the 
orchard,  pruning,  205.  See 
under  Apple,  Peach,  Pear, 
etc. 

Fruit  picker,  advantages  of, 
249,  250 


Index 


265 


Fungus,  sprayed  with  Bordeaux 
mixture,  168 


Garlic,  drying  bulbs,  planting, 
cultivation,  fertilizer,  46,  47 

General  Hints  (on  small  fruits), 
227-229 

Glass,  unglazed,  for  hotbed  of 
cold-frame,  125 

Gloves,  to  protect  the  hands 
while  working,  248 

Goggles,  to  be  worn  while 
spraying,  176 

Gooseberries,  Currants  and, 
distance  at  which  to  set 
bushes,  208;  hardy  plants, 
growth  of,  care  of  fruit, 
pruning,  roots  near  surface, 
thinning  bushes,  borers,  care 
of,  for  winter,  English  varie- 
ties, ripe  ^  ones  only  eaten, 
soil  requirements,  benefits 
of  shade  and  cultivation, 
care  and  planting  of  bushes, 
to  induce  branching,  216, 
217,  218,  219 

Gourds,  how  to  plant,  f  ertilizer, 
cooking,  47,  48 

Grafting,  pleasure  in,  228,  sup- 
plies for,  240;  when  to,  244; 
wax  for,  247,  protecting 
the  hands  while,  247;  cutting 
scions,  206 

Grapes,  distance  atwhich  to  set 
bushes,  208;  cuttings,  spray 
for  diseases,  219;  protection 
of  bunches  with  paper  bags, 
where  to  plant,  with  other 
small  fruits,  when  to  prune, 
growth,  220;  care,  pruning, 
insects,  care  when  spraying, 
221 ;  spring  care,  winter  care, 
number  of  buds  allowed  to 
remain  on  vine,  spray  for 
diseases,  packing  for  winter 
use,  fertilizer  for,  222;  mean- 
ing of  terms:  shoot,  cane, 
arm,  sucker,  branch,  trunk, 


stem,    spur,    water   sprout, 

bull  cane,  lateral,  223  ^ 
Greasy    water,    beneficial    to 

garden,  114 
Green  fly,  on  plum  tree,  spray 

for,  203 
Greenhouse,  to  disinfect,  176, 

177;  with  tobacco,  177 
Grubs,    white,    treatment    of 

land  infected  with,  168 
Guano,  amounts  to  apply  and 

when,    104,    105;   for  liquid 

fertilizer,  113 

H 


Hardening  plants,  when  grown 
in  hot-bed,  cold-frame,  or 
greenhouse,  124 

Hedges,  evergreen,  advantages 
of,  how  to  start,  250 

Hellebore,  recipe  for,  183 

Herbs,  list  of,  as  a  border,  48; 
drying,  advantages  of  trays 
when,  248;  grown  in  window 
box,  care  of,  243,  244 

Hessian  fly,  to  control,  173 

Horseradish,  soil  requirements, 
cultivation,  planting  root 
cuttings,  care,  old  roots  best, 
fertilizer,  48,  49 

Hotbed  and  Cold-frame,  The, 
article  on,  117-121;  hints  on, 
121-126;  to  make,  tempera- 
ture, 121,  122;  double  sash, 
straw  mats,  for  lettuce, 
radish,  and  parsley,  to  make, 
122,  123;  when  to  uncover 
to  harden  plants,  when  to 
water,  123;  when  and  how  to 
ventilate,  not  luxuries,  hard- 
ening plants,  when  to  start, 
124;  should  face  the  south, 
location,  use  of  unglazed 
glass  in,  should  be  white- 
washed, watering  plants  in, 
soil  in  the,  125;  protection 
on  cold  nights,  care  when 
the  sun  is  too  strong,  the 
concrete  hotbed,  126 


266 


Index 


Humus,  vegetation  plowed  un- 
der to  form,  113 

Hydrocyanic  gas,  dangerous, 
not  to  be  used,  177 


Insects  and  Sprays,  article  on, 
162-164;  hints  on,  164-183; 
Paris  green  to  kill,  arsenate 
of  lead,  164;  soapsuds  for 
plant  lice,  to  kill  cabbage 
aphis,  mildew,  sucking  in- 
sects controlled  with  tobacco, 
control  of  fly-beetles,  165; 
maggots  on  cabbage,  to 
destroy,  worms  on  cabbage, 
asparagus  beetle,  potato 
blight,  potato  beetle,  166; 
to  prevent  squash  bug,  aphis 
on  cucumber  and  melons,  cu- 
cumber beetle,  hibernating, 
167;  white  grubs,  168;  tent 
caterpillars,  weevils,  brown- 
tail  moth,  caterpillars,  169; 
curculio,  bud  moth,  tent 
caterpillars,  canker  worm, 
railroad  worm,  aphis,  San 
Jos£  scale,  apple  scab,  fly 
speck  on  apples,  169;  cater- 
pillars, wireworm,  mosqui- 
toes, fleas,  flies,  171;  to  de- 
stroy flies,  ants  spread  aphis, 
to  destroy  ants,  172;  to  de- 
stroy house  centipede,  hab- 
its, to  control  the  Hessian 
fly,  to  destroy  the  small  black 
fly,  to  control  the  common 
house  fly,  173;  caution  in 
using  borax  on  manure,  helle- 
bore to  kill  the  fly  maggot, 
to  kill  the  army  worm,  174; 
to  kill^  wasps,  rotation  to 
check  insects,  remedy  for 
San  Jose"  ^  scale,  175;  pine 
mice  injurious  to  fruit  trees, 
to  kill,  176;  mustard  water 
efficacious,  spray  for  blight, 
mildew,  leaf  spot,  and  rust, 
tree  tanglefoot  to  protect 
trees,  eradication  of  harmful 


worms,  177;  caterpillars 
killed  with  heat,  birds  that 
eat  insects,  178;  stagnant  wa- 
ter breeds  mosquitoes,  toad 
eats  harmful  insects,  angle- 
worm a  help,  not  a  pest,  179; 
to  protect  tomato  plant  from 
cutworm,  frost  kills  insects, 
value  of  fall  plowing  to 
eradicate  pests,  180;  killed 
with  ammonia  water,  107, 
108 

Iron,  sulphate  of,  to  kill  weeds, 
1 60,  161;  when  to  apply  and 
quantity  of,  105 


K 


Kainite,  when  to  apply,  quan- 
tity of,  104,  106 

Kale,  soil  requirements,  setting 
plants,  cultivation,'  as  greens, 
left  in  ground  until  frost, 
started  in  hotbed,  trans- 
planted, 50 

Kerosene  Emulsion,  recipe  for, 

183 

Kohl-rabi,  cultivation,  how  to 
plant,  young  roots  used,  50, 


Labels,  permanent,  for  garden, 

242 

Lateral,  of  vine,  definition,  223 

Lavender,    soil    requirements, 

seed  planting,  root  division, 

cuttings,  to  gather  and  dry, 

51*  52 

Leaf -curl,  on  peach  trees, 
spraying  for,  196,  199 

Leaf-mold,  or  peat,  for  seed 
bed,  134 

Leaf -spot,  spray  for,  196 

Leeks,  soil  requirements,  sow- 
ing seed,  soaking  seed,  culti- 
vation, blanching,  52;  water- 
ing, storing  for  future  use,  53 

Lettuce,  soil  requirements,  fre- 
quent watering,  early  leaf 


Index 


267 


Lettuce — Continued 

lettuce,  sown  in  hotbed, 
transplanted,  heading,  53; 
picking,  thinning,  as  greens, 
in  window  boxes,  54;  succes- 
sion of  plantings,  in  frames, 
ventilation,  sown  in  autumn 
in  South,  watering,  sowing 
seed,  55;  growing  seed,  gath- 
ering seed,  early  planting, 
56;  planting  seed,  132;  thin- 
ning, 147;  to  make  hotbed 
for,  122,  123 

Lice,  plant,  to  kill,  164,  165; 
on  fruit  trees,  spray  for,  198 

Lima  beans,  to  force,  9;  danger 
from  frost,  60 

Lime,  for  clay  soils,  no,  113; 
for  sandy  soils,  112;  for 
sour  soils  112;  analyzed, 
112;  when  and  how  to  apply, 
109,  no 

Lime,  sulphate  of,  for  heavy 
soils,  104 

Lime  sulphur,  a  recipe  for,  175; 
self-boiled,  181 

Liquid  fertilizer,  from  guano, 
113;  formula  for,  how  to 
apply,  114,  115 

Location, of  garden,  near  the 
house,  178;  on  south  or 
southeast  slope,  179;  lo- 
cation, 235 

Loganberries,  soil  and  climate 
requirements,  223,  224 

Lye,  to  kill  weeds,  160 

M 

Maggots,  on  cabbage,  to  de- 
stroy, 1 66;  to  kill  in  manure, 

174 

Magnesia,  sulphate  of,  when 
and  quantity  to  apply, <  105 

Manure,  chicken  droppings, 
sheep  manure,  barnyard 
manure,  how  to  apply,  114; 
treated  with  phosphatic  rock, 
113;  treated  for  flies,  cau- 
tion with  borax,  with  helle- 
bore, 174;  applied  in  Novem- 


ber, no,  barnyard  manure 
recommended,  no;  when 
and  how  to  apply,  105;  to 
rot,  1 08;  see  Fertilization 

Marjoram,  soil  requirements, 
56;  to  root  cuttings,  57 

Marrow,  Vegetable,  soil  re- 
quirements, cultivation,  lik- 
ened to  pumpkins,  when  to 
gather,  small  variety  pre- 
ferred, sowing  seed,  trans- 
planting, 97,  98 

Mats,  straw,  for  hotbed,  122 

Melons,  can  be  planted  near 
pumpkins,  77;  to  prevent 
squash  bug  attacking,  167; 
when  attacked  by  aphis,  by 
cucumber  beetle,  167;  not  to 
be  transplanted,  143;  see 
Watermelon,  Cantaloupe, 
Muskmelon,  etc. 

Mice,  to  keep  from  plants,  170; 
pine  mice,  damage  fruit 
trees,  to  destroy,  176 

Mildew,  spray  for,  177 

Mint,  seed  sowing,  root  cut- 
tings, soil  requirements,  self- 
perpetuating,  grown  in  the 
house,  preserving,  57,  58; 
grown  in  pot  at  the  kitchen 
window,  243 

Miscellaneous  Hints  on  Fruit 
Trees,  205-208 

Miscellaneous  Hints  on  Gar- 
dening, 235-250 

Moisture,  necessity  of,  235, 236 

Mosquitoes,  to  control,  to 
lessen  pain  of  bite,  171 ;  breed 
in  pools,  179 

Moth,  browntail,  to  control, 
169;  bud  moth,  spray  for, 
1 60 

Mulberry,  soil  requirements, 
training  tree,  picking  fruit, 
propagated  by  cuttings, 
pruning  tree,  195 

Mushrooms,  study^  varieties, 
grown  in  cellar,  size  of  bed, 
how  to  grow,  58 

Muskmelons,  soil  require- 
ments, 58 ;  how  to  plant,  seed, 


268 


Index 


Muskmelons — Continued 
transplanting,  watering,  59; 
saving  seed,  danger  from 
frost,  picking,  60,  61;  mois- 
ture required,  99;  see  Canta- 
loupe 

Mustard,  how  to  plant,  grow- 
ing seed,  green  leaves  a  poul- 
tice, soil  requirements,  cook- 
ing, 61;  in  window  box,  54 

Mustard  water,  to  kill  leaf- 
feeding  insects,  177 


N 


Nectarines,  distance  at  which 
to  set  trees,  208 

New  England  spinach,  87 

Nitrate  of  potash,  when  to 
apply  and  quantity,  105 

Nitrate  of  soda,  when  to  apply 
and  quantity,  105;  how  and 
when  to  apply,  no;  how  to 
apply,  caution,  113;  how  to 
use,  243;  for  spinach,  87 

Nitrogen,  promotes  growth, 
and  color,  in 

Nuts,  hints  on,  230-232 

Nut  trees,  230,  231,  232;  soil 
requirements,  231 


Okra,  soil  requirements,  culti- 
vation, soaking  seed,  plant- 
ing, when  to  gather,  61,62 

Onions,  soil  requirements,  cul- 
tivation, in  winter,  to  force, 
curing,  62 ;  ashes,  winter  care, 
bunching,  Egyptian,  win- 
ter onions,  63;  not  planted 
two  years  in  succession  in 
same  place,  harvesting,  ad- 
vantages of  winter  onion, 
spraying  for  insects,  select- 
ing seed,  64;  early  planting, 
56 ;  when  grown  for  seed, 
testing  seed,  65;  thinning, 
147 

Onion  sets,  in  window  box,  54 

Oyster   Plant,  or   salsify,   its 


use,  when  to  plant,  stored 
for  winter,  biennial,  soil 
requirements,  left  in  ground 
for  winter,  sowing  seed  and 
thinning,  82,  83,  84 


Paris  Green,  Recipe  for,  182; 

caution  with,  175 

Parsley,  soil  requirements, 
soaking  seed,  long  season, 
shade  required,  planted  in 
pots  for  winter,  planted  in  cel- 
lar, salting  down  for  winter 
use,  thinning,  65,  66,  67;  to 
make  hotbed  for,  122,  123; 
grown  in  pot  at  kitchen 
window,  243 

Parsnips,  soil  requirements, 
cultivation,  when  and  how  to 
plant,  when  ready  for  use, 
flavor  improved,  not  a  second 
season  crop,  67;  growing 
seed,  12 

Peaches,  thinning  heavily  lad- 
en trees,  saving  and  planting 
seed,  picking  fruit,  when  and 
with  what  to  spray  for  leaf 
curl,  San  Jos£  scale,  brown 
rot,  scab,  curculio,  196; 
treated  for  brown  rot,  when 
sprayed  in  summer,  exam- 
ine before  planting  for  black 
knob,  treatment,  197;  spray 
for  plant  lice,  treatment  for 
borer,  pruning,  to  thin  out 
tree,  198;  when  to  pick  fruit, 
treatment  for  scab,  for  leaf 
curl,  199;  distance  at  which 
to  set  trees,  208 

Pears,  spray  for  slug,  176;  soil 
requirements,  treatment  for 
blight,  danger  of  bruising 
bark,  late  and  early  varieties, 
200;  pruning,  when  and  how 
to  plant,  care  of  young  trees, 
storing  fruit,  growing  choice 
fruit,  201;  protection  from 
insects,  when  to  pick  fruit, 
care  of  picked  fruit,  202; 


Index 


269 


Pears — Continued 

distance   at    which   to   set 
trees,  208 

Peas,  soil  requirements,  fer- 
tilizers, cooking  pods,  how 
to  plant,  vines  trained  on 
netting,  advantages  of 
wrinkled  varieties,  68;  im- 
prove soil,  turning  under 
vines,  feeding  vines  to  cows, 
necessity  of  cultivation,  suc- 
cession of  plantings,  selecting 
and  growing  seed,  69;  trained 
on  a  wire  fence,  70;  to  sup- 
port vines,  9;  early  planting, 
56;  to  kill  weevils  on,  169; 
thinning,  147 

Peat  or  leaf  mold,  for  seed  bed, 

134 

Pepper-grass,  or  cress,  38,  39 
Peppers,  sown  in  hotbed,  trans- 
planted,   soil    requirements, 
pruning,    watering,    danger 
from    frost,     70;    fertilized 
with  nitrate  of  soda,  no 
Peppermint  (see  Mint,  57, 58) 
Phosphates,  promote  flowering 
and  f  ruitf ulness,  in;  ground 
rock  a,  112 
Phosphatic  rock  and  manure, 

ii3»  fi4 

Pine  mice,  damage  fruit  trees, 
to  destroy,  176 

Plans  for  the  family  garden, 
254,  242;  care  in  selection, 
location  of  vegetables,  when 
to  plan,  243 

Plant  lice,  to  kill,  164,  165;  on 
fruit  trees,  spray  for,  198 

Planting  (article  on),  139-140 

Plowing  and  pulverizing,  115, 
1 16;  when  soil  is  too  wet,  107 ; 
in  the  fall,  helps  control 
insects,  180 

Plums,  soil  requirements,  202; 
varieties  planted  together, 
202,  203;  chickens  aid  in  con- 
trolling insects,  the  yellow 
plum,  rooting  cuttings,  spray 
for  green  fly,  203;  damson 
plums,  204;  saving  and  plant- 


ing seed,  196;  spray  for  plant 
lice,  198;  for  slugs,  176;  dis- 
tance at  which  to  set  trees, 
208 

Poison  ivy,  to  eradicate,  161 

Pollination,  of  different  vege- 
tables, 245,  241 

Pools,  or  stagnant  water,  breed 
mosquitoes,  179 

Posts,  to  prevent  rotting,  238, 
246 

Potash,  nitrate  of,  when  to 
apply  and  quantity,  106; 
forms  of,  in 

Potassium  sulphide,  recipe  for, 
182 

Potato  beetle,  to  rid  eggplant 
of,  44 

Potatoes,  when  to  plant,  70; 
soil  and  fertilizer  required, 
sprouting  before  planting, 
cultivation,  harrowing  after 
planting,  preparation  of  seed 
bed,  71 ;  not  planted  in  same 
place  two  years  in  succession, 
treated  for  scab  before  plant- 
ing, sprayed  for  bugs,  when 
grown  on  irrigated  land,  72; 
planting  late  varieties,  pre- 
paration of  seed,  to  guard 
against  dryness,  when  cut- 
ting seed,  sulphur  for  scab, 
cooking  in  the  jacket,  73; 
when  to  dig,  how  to  store, 
spraying  often,  storing  in 
pits,  74;  to  distinguish  seed 
end,  preparing  seed,  starting 
sprouts  before  planting,  dan- 
ger from  frost,  75;  to  control 
blight,  166;  to  control  beetle, 
166 

Potatoes,  sweet,  soil  require- 
ments, time  for  planting, 
storing,  when  to  gather,  75, 
76 

Powder  gun  for  dry  sprays, 
178 

Protection,  of  hotbed  on  cold 
nights,  125,  126;  when  the 
sun  is  too  hot,  126;  for  the 
garden,  235 


270 


Index 


Pruning  fruit  trees,  when  to, 
207  (see  under  each  tree) 

Pumpkins,  soil  requirements, 
how  to  plant,  planted  among 
corn,  picking,  storing,  fer- 
tilizing, 76 ;  fallacy  of  crossing 
with  squashes,  melons,  and 
cucumbers,  77;  when  at- 
tacked by  the  cucumber 
beetle,  167 


Q 


Queen  Anne's  lace,  or  wild 
carrot,  to  eradicate,  160 

Quinces,  soil  requirements,  to 
root  cuttings,  planting  trees, 
treatment  for  borers,  fertil- 
izers, 204,  205;  distance  at 
which  to  set  trees,  208 


Radishes,  soil  requirements, 
planting  seed,  thinning,  suc- 
cession of  crops  and  plant- 
ings, winter  growth  in  hot- 
beds, white  and  red  varieties, 
partial  shade  preferred,  77, 
78;  in  window  box,  54;  thin- 
ning, necessary,  distance, 
147;  to  make  hotbed  for,  122, 

Raspberries,  Blackberries  and, 

distance  at  which  to  set 
bushes,  209;  soil  require- 
ments, require  room,  winter 
protection.lif  eof  patch,plant- 
ing  in  rows,  crown  gall,  culti- 
vation, 209,  210,  227,  228; 
cutting  and  pruning,  tipping 
canes,  nipping  new  tips,  cut- 
ting back  canes,  211 ;  remov- 
ing suckers,  supporting  canes, 
need  of  shade,  preparing 
land  for,  pruning,  thinning, 
212;  care  after  fruiting,  care 
in  spring,  location  of  bed, 
213;  winter  protection,  red 


rust,  manure  a  protection 
from  cold,  care  of  picked 
fruit,  varieties,  214 

Record  book  for  the  garden, 
242 

Red  rust,  on  raspberries  and 
blackberries,  214 

Rhubarb,  soil  requirements, 
planting  seed,  started  from 
roots,  perennial,  when  to 
start  roots,  dividing  old 
hills,  light  cutting  until 
third  year,  78;  forcing  and 
winter  growth,  in  cellar, 
how  to  plant  roots,  seed  not 
to  be  allowed  to  mature, 
value  as  food,  79;  cooking, 
selecting  and  planting  roots, 
winter  mulching,  8p 

Rosemary,  soil  requirements, 
•  sowing  seed,  thinning,  cut- 
tings, transplanting,  prun- 
ing, 80,  8 1 

Rotation  of  crops  checks  in- 
sects and  diseases,  175 

Rubbish,  should  be  burned, 
167,  1 68;  to  dispose  of,  245 

Rust,  spray  for,  177,  214 

Rutabaga,  soil  requirements, 
planting,  cooked  with  white 
potatoes,  8 1,  82 


Sage,  soil  requirements,  cut- 
tings, care  of  root  clumps, 
varieties,  gathering,  82 

Salad,  Corn,  38 

Salsify,  its  use,  when  to  plant, 
stored  for  winter,  biennial, 
soil  requirements,  left  in  the 
ground  for  winter,  sowing 
seed,  thinning,  82,  83,  84; 
thinning,  147 

San  Jos6  scale,  spray  for,  169; 
remedied  with  lime  sulphur, 
175;  qn  peach  trees,  spray 
for,  196 

Sand,  advantages  and  disad- 
vantages, in  soil,  107;  drain- 
age of  sandy  soils,  116; 


Index 


271 


Sand — Continued 

plowed  earlier  than  heavy, 
115,  116;  treated  with  lime 
or  coal  ashes,  112 

Savory,  soil  requirements,  va- 
rieties, sown  under  glass  and 
transplanted,  picking  sum- 
mer and  winter  varieties, 
cuttings  and  root  divisions, 
84 

Sawdust,  not  to  be  used,  115; 
breeds  insects,  107 

Scab,  potatoes  treated  for,  be- 
fore planting,  with  formal- 
dehyde, 72;  with  sulphur, 
73;  on  peach  trees,  spraying 
for,  196,  199 

Scarecrow,  a  substitute  for,  241 

Sea-kale,  soil  requirements, 
planting  and  cultivation, 
planting  seed,  transplanting, 
root  cuttings,  cutting,  forc- 
ing, 84,  85 

Seat,  in  the  garden,  246 

Seed,  article  on,  127-129; 
hints  on,  129-138;  when  sav- 
ing, 129;  when  purchasing, 
fresh  seed  required,  planting 
with  drill,  planted  in  rows, 
how  to  plant,  130;  depth  to 
plant,  to  plant  in  boxes, 
purchased  early,  started  in 
boxes,  when  sown  late,  131; 
planting  lettuce  seed,  re- 
quirements for  growth,  wat- 
ering, 132;  growing  seed,  132; 
133;  use  of  drill,  132;  tem- 
perature for  growth,  seed 
bed,  drainage,  preparation, 
soil  for,  fertilizer,  133,  134; 
to  kill  weed  seed  in  soil  for 
flats,  134,  135;  moisture  for 
seed  bed,  what  seed  to  grow, 
135;  watering,  136, 137;  when 
planted  in  the  open,  137;  of 
the  same  size,  137;  large, 
skins  to  be  loosened,  137, 
138;  selecting  ^  seed,  237; 
distance  at  which  to  plant, 
depth,  when  plants  will  be 
ready  for  use,  257,  258 


Shade,  when  digging  or  weed- 
ing, 248 

Shallots,  soil  requirements, 
when  to  plant  bulbs,  cultiva- 
tion, conserving  and  storing 
bulbs,  86 

Sheep  manure,  value  of,  how 
to  apply,  114 

Shoot,  on  vine,  definition  of, 
223 

Shrubbery,  to  root  cuttings, 
250 

Size  of  garden,  237 

Slag,  basic,  when  and  how  to 
apply,  in;  when  and  quan- 
tity to  apply,  106 

Slugs,  on  fruit  trees,  spray  for, 
176 

Small  Fruits,  hints  on,  209-229; 
general  hints  on,  227-229; 
soil  requirements,  227;  new 
land  not  desirable  for,  in- 
tercropping of  small  vege- 
tables, experimenting,  winter 
care  of  bushes,  228;  drainage, 
keeping  bugs  away,  care 
after  picking,  fertilized  with 
old  bones,  229;  see  under 
Currants,  Raspberries,  etc. 

Soda,  to  kill  weeds,  160;  nitrate 
of,  how  to  apply,  caution, 
113;  nitrate  of,  when  and 
quantity  to  apply,  105; 
nitrate  of,  how  and  when  to 
apply,  no;  nitrate  of,  how 
to  use,  243 

Soil  and  Fertilization,  article 
on,  100-104;  hints  on,  104- 
116;  advantages  and  dis- 
advantages of  sandy,1, when  to 
plow,  pulverize  when  plant- 
ing seed,  107;  to  prepare 
compost,  1 08;  plowing  and 
pulverizing,  115, 116;  sandy, 
drainage,  heavy  clay  soils, 
for  general  vegetable  grow- 
ing, 116;  preparation  of, 
plowing  and  harrowing,  133, 
134;  for  seed  bed,  134;  clay 
soils  treated  with  lime,  ill, 
113;  sour,  neutralized  with 


272 


Index 


Soil  and  Fertilization — Cont'd 
lime,    112;    sandy,    treated 
with    lime    or    ashes,    112; 
treated  for  wet,  236 

Sour  soils,  treated  with  lime, 

112 

Sown  where  they  are  to  grow, 
a  list  of  vegetables  to  be, 
255 

Sown  indoors  and  transplanted 
later,  a  list  of  vegetables  to 
be,  254 

Space,  table  denoting  how 
much,  should  be  devoted 
to  various  vegetables,  256 

Spearmint  (see  Mint,  57,  58) 

Specializing  in  some  one  line, 
249 

Spinach,  soil  requirements, 
grown  in  the  winter  in  Mid- 
dle South,  mulched  to  pre- 
vent freezing,  New  England, 
soaking  seed,  fall  planting, 
late  summer  planting,  nitrate 
of  soda  fertilizer,  86,  87 

Sprays,  Insects  and,  article  on, 
162-164;  hints  on,  164-183; 
Bordeaux  mixture,  for  dis- 
eases, 165;  for  potato  blight, 
166;  for  aphis  and  cucumber 
beetles,  167;  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture for  fungus,  168;  for 
caterpillars,  169;  for  San 
Jose*  scale,  169;  for  curculio, 
bud  moth,  tent  caterpillar, 
canker  worm,  170;  protec- 
tion for  the  eyes  while  using, 
when  to,  apple  trees,  other 
fruit,  disinfecting  green- 
houses, 176,  177;  tobacco  as 
a  disinfectant,  use  of  powder 
gun  for  dry  powders,  178; 
early  and  thorough  spraying 
advised,  care  when  spraying, 
a  list  of  sprays,  185;  recipe 
for:  Bordeaux  mixture,  Bor- 
deaux-arsenate  of  lead  mix- 
ture, self -boiled  lime  sulphur, 
181 ;  potassium  sulphide,  cor- 
rosive sublimate,  formalde- 
hyde solution,  Paris  green, 


182;  arsenate  of  lead  paste, 
arsenate  of  lead  powder, 
hellebore,  whale-oil  soap, 
kerosene  emulsion,  183; 
spraying  with  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture to  prevent  potato  bugs, 
72;  spray  often,  74 
Sprout,  water,  of  vine,  defi- 
nition, 223 

Spur,  of  vine,  definition,  223 
Squash,  varieties,  amount  re- 
quired,    planting,     storing, 
cutting,  winter  variety    for 
storing,   quality   of,   88,  89; 
danger  from  frost,  60;  can 
be  planted  near  melons,  77 
Squash  bug,  to  prevent,  167 
Stem  of  vine,  definition,  223 
Storing  vegetables  for  the  win- 
ter, 245 
Straw,  rotting,  breeds  flies  and 

fleas,  171 

Strawberries,  soil  require- 
ments, fertilizer,  how  to 
plant,  use  good  varieties 
only,  224;  pruning  runners, 
pollination,  planted  in  even- 
ing, care  in  planting,  winter 
care,  cultivation,  the  hill  sys- 
tem, 225 ;  blossoms  removed 
from  newly  set  out  plants, 
mulching,  where  to  place 
bed,  picking  berries,  young 
plants  desired,  226;  plowing 
up  old  bed,  canning  berries, 
wood  ashes  as  fertilizer, 
227;  fertilizer,  222 
Stream  near  the  garden,  235 
Sucker,  of  vines,  definition,  223 
Suggestion  from  catalogues, 

248 

Sulphate  of  ammonia,  quantity 
of  and  when  to  apply,  105; 
recommended,  in 

of    iron,  when  to  apply 

and   quantity    105;    to   kill 
weeds,  160 

of  lime,  for  heavy  soils, 

104 

of  magnesia,   when  and 

quantity  to  apply,  105 


Index 


273 


Sunbonnet,  worn  while  work- 
ing in  the  garden,  247 

Sweet  Marjoram  (see  Marjor- 
am, 56,  57) 

Sweet  Potatoes,  soil  require- 
ment, when  to  plant,  stor- 
ing, when  to  dig,  75,  76 


Table  Denoting  Distance  at 
which  Fruit  Trees  should  be 
Set,  208 

Table,  showing  when  vegetable 
seed  should  be  sown,  depth, 
and  length  of  time  to  mature, 
257,  258 

Tanglefoot,  to  protect  trees, 
177;  to  kill  fleas,  172 

Tape,  seed,  advantages  of,  238 

Tarragon,  soil,  as  a  salad,  how 
to  propagate,  89 

Tent  caterpillar,  destroy,  169; 
spray  for,  170 

Thermometer  for  greenhouse 
or  hotbed,  selection  of,  240 

Thinning  and  Transplanting, 
article  on,  141 ;  hints  on,  142- 
148;  tender  plants  to  be 
thinned  first,  how  to  thin, 
generous  thinning,  when  to 
thin,  146,  147;  plants  need- 
ing thinning,  extent  of  thin- 
ning, 147 

Thyme,  varieties,  requirements 
of,  89,  90 

Toad,  an  aid,  eats  insects, 
habits,  179 

Tobacco  extract,  burned  as  a 
disinfectant,  177 

Tomatoes,  soil  requirements, 
planted  in  hotbed,  late  va- 
rieties, 90;  to  secure  strong 
plants,  fertilizer,  hardening 
plants,  in  hotbed,  transplant- 
ing, time  required  for  growth, 
91 ;  supporting  vines,  picking 
fruit,  overripe  fruit  fed  to 
chickens,  spraying  for  fly 
beetles,  protecting  from  early 
frost,  92;  growing  seed, 
18 


ripening  green  tomatoes, 
picked  before  frost  in  the 
house,  pruning  and  train- 
ing vines,  93;  how  to  prune, 
tall  vines  not  desired,  to 
grow  large  fruit,  praning 
without  a  knife,  94;  training 
for  a  number  of  stems,  on  a 
wire  trellis,  drainage,  spray- 
ing, drying  seed,  95;  when 
to  start  in  the  hotbed,  124, 
to  protect  from  cutworms, 
180 

Tools,  care  of,  238;  list  of  neces- 
sary, 238,  249;  small  tools 
kept  in  a  basket,  244;  care 
of  harrow,  241;  hoe  to  be 
suited  to  the  person,  240 

Torch,  for  killing  caterpillars, 
178 

Transplanting  and  Thinning, 
article  on,  141 ;  hints  on,  142- 
148;  to  strengthen  plants, 
when  to,  watering  before, 
removing  leaves,  when,  wa- 
tering after,  142;  in  dirt 
bands,  care  in  handling  roots 
when,  melons,  cucumbers, 
beans,  143;  a  method  of 
transplanting  tender  plants, 
care  of  transplanted  plants, 
when  to  transplant,  144; 
large  plants,  "puddling," 
preparation  of  the  soil  before, 
145;  depth  to  set  plants, 
benefit  of,  for  sickly  plants, 
care  with  tender  plants,  146; 
a  list  of  plants  to  be,  those 
sown  indoors,  254;  those  out- 
doors, 254;  see  lists  on  pp. 

254,  255 

Trees,  nut,  230-232;  general, 
233»  234;  the  care  of  apple, 
170;  care  of  fruit,  171;  plan- 
ning for,  when  to  plant, 
whitewashing,  233;  water- 
ing, how  to  plant,  training, 
watering,  when  to  trans- 
plant, 234;  refer  to  different 
names  of  trees  in  index. 

Trunk,  of  vines  definition,  223 


274 


Index 


Turnips,  soil  requirements, 
planting,  preparing  seed  bed, 
when  to  sow  seed,  growing 
late  varieties,  storing  for 
winter,  96;  using  tops  as 
greens,  withstand  frost, 
when  to  thin,  97;  growing 
seed,  12;  thinning,  147 

Tying  plants,  to  a  stake,  care, 
kind  of  cord  to  use,  244 


Unglazed  glass,  for  the  hotbed 
and  cold-frame,  125 


Value  of  garden,  236 
Varieties,  selecting,  237 
Vegetable    Marrow,   soil    re- 
quired, cultivation,  likened 
to  pumpkin,  when  to  gather, 
small     varieties     preferred, 
cooking,  saving  seed,  trans- 
planting, 97,  98 
Vegetables,  A  List  of,  for  the 
Family  Garden,  when  to  sow, 
when  ready  for  use,  256;  dis- 
tance  at   which    to    plant, 
depth  at  which  seed  should 
be  sown,  etc.,  257,  258 
Ventilation  of  greenhouse  and 

hotbed,  124 
Vines,  training  on  fence,  242 


W 


Walnuts,    soil    requirements, 
when  and  how  to  plant,  size 
of   crop,   distance   between 
trees,  when  to  prune,  how  to 
prune,  when  matured,  need 
of  moisture,  231,  232 
Wasps,  to  destroy,  175 
Watercress,  see  Cress,  38, 39 


Watering,  article  on,  154-155; 
hints  on,  155-157;  when  to, 
155;  how  to,  use  of  hose,  for 
tender  plants,  when  plants 
wilt,  cut  vegetables,  156, 
157;  time  for,  136;  small 
seeds,  136;  by  flooding,  136; 
thoroughly,  necessity,  137; 
the  seed  bed,  132,  135,  136; 
hotbed,  when  to,  123;  how 
to,  125;  plants  in  flats, 
126 

Watermelon,  how  to  plant, 
soil  requirements,  not  grown 
in  same  place  two  years  in 
succession,  started  in  pots, 
how  to  plant  seed,  spraying 
for  insects,  moisture  re- 
quired, selecting  and  drying 
seed,  98,  99;  when  attacked 
by  aphis,  or  cucumber  beetle, 
167 

Wax,  for  grafting,  247 

Weeding,  shade  while, 
248 

Weeds,  article  on,  158-160; 
hints  on,  160-161;  do  not 
allow  to  start,  to  kill,  wild 
carrot,  salty  water,  lye, 
1 60;  to  kill  chickweed,  poison 
ivy,  161;  necessity  of  re- 
moving, 236 

Weevils,  to  destroy,  169 

Wet  soil,  treatment  of,  236 

Whale-oil  soap,  recipe  for, 
183 

Wheel  hoe,  advantages  of,  for 
cultivation,  153 

When  Ready  for  Use,  A  List 
of  Vegetables  and,  256,  257, 
258 

When  to  Sow,  A  List  of  Vegeta- 
•  •  bles  and  Time  for  Planting, 
256 

White  grubs,  treatment  of 
land  infested  with,  168 

Wild  carrot,  or  Queen  Anne's 
lace,  to  eradicate,  160 

Window  box,  for  herbs,  pre- 
paration, 244,  245;  care  of, 
watering,  245 


Index 


275 


Winter  care  of  crops,  237;  of 

annuals,  151 
Wire  worms,  to  keep  away  from 

plants,  171 
Wood  ashes,  when  and  how  to 


apply,  advantages  of,    106, 
in;  how  to  apply,  115 
Worms,  angle,  not  harmful  but 
helpful,  179;  to  kill  harmful, 
177 


,Y6  47507 


